SYE without lift?

Does anyone have any opinion on running a non-lifted XJ (2001 Sport) with an SYE and custom driveshaft in place? I can't see a downside to it, but would really like to hear from anyone who may have done this in the past. I'm considering going the Tom Woods route on the SYE, if it matters.

FWIW, the reason I'm looking at this setup is that economics (nowhere to work on my vehicle, so having to do everything through a shop) is dictating my lift expenditures - doing the SYE first to get it out of the way, then doing the suspension itself later once I have the cash for that is the approach I'd like to take.

i didn't have any place to install mine either. so i just said f' it and did it in my apt parkinglot

The only downside is that when you lift a vehicle, you tend to need a longer driveshaft. If you go with a shaft that has a long slip joint and size it a touch on the long side, you should be OK.

FitchVA said:

i didn't have any place to install mine either. so i just said f' it and did it in my apt parkinglot

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I could've got away with that at my old place, too Unfortunately, I have fully-enclosed parking and neighbours who are really touchy about the clause in the lease that says 'no working on cars in the parking area'. One of them went to the manager when they saw me checking the oil level once; that was 45 minutes of my life spent explaining myself I'd really rather have back.

old_man said:

The only downside is that when you lift a vehicle, you tend to need a longer driveshaft. If you go with a shaft that has a long slip joint and size it a touch on the long side, you should be OK.

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Sounds good, and backs up my suspicions. I'm only going for 3" for the initial lift (OME); my main concern was if the slip-joint shaft would have any problems running compressed at stock heights for a couple of months. Sounds like I should be relatively safe, though. Thanks

I'd spend a few extra bucks and get one with an extra long slip, so that you know you'll be able to use it from stock up to about 6 inches. you may only want 3" now, but I remember those days. If you really only want 3", you better stop hanging out here.

FitchVA said:

i didn't have any place to install mine either. so i just said f' it and did it in my apt parkinglot

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Can I get a yeeeehaaaaaa!!! I would have done the same thing. Very nice looking XJ by the way!

OHKAAAAAAY. :thumbup: thanks.

BrettM said:

I'd spend a few extra bucks and get one with an extra long slip, so that you know you'll be able to use it from stock up to about 6 inches.

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Definitely a good idea.

you may only want 3" now, but I remember those days. If you really only want 3", you better stop hanging out here.

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Heh I'm just trying to plan this out so that I only have to do everything once for each stage of buildup. Who is it that has, 'JEEP - Just Empty Every Pocket' as their signature here? I'm really starting to appreciate the wisdom behind that.

FitchVA said:

i didn't have any place to install mine either. so i just said f' it and did it in my apt parkinglot

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I don't feel so bad now.... I thought i was the only one that was a parking lot mechanic..... I did an engine swap, lift, axles, and rebuilt my crashed BMW in front of my apartment at school....

Donovan

The 2001 has the new "improved" transfer case output that is very prone to vibration problems. I have a 2001 Sport 5-speed and I will be converting that with a JB Conversions SYE as soon as I scrape up the jingle for the driveshaft to go with it. The vibrations are bad enough that I really don't like to drive it, because I know every mile is damaging the transfer case bearings.

BTW -- mine is stock. The only modification since it left the showroom is rustproofing.

Eagle said:

The 2001 has the new "improved" transfer case output that is very prone to vibration problems. I have a 2001 Sport 5-speed and I will be converting that with a JB Conversions SYE as soon as I scrape up the jingle for the driveshaft to go with it.

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Interesting. I'm not noticing any excessive vibration out of mine - I wonder if this might be an issue with the balance of the 5-speed vs. the automatic?

BTW -- mine is stock. The only modification since it left the showroom is rustproofing.

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Same here, less the rustproofing. I'm only getting started on the mechanical mods now that I've got most of the quality-of-life stuff taken care of (apart from adding cruise control, that is). So far the one big modification has been getting a Warn quick-disconnect power outlet into the cabin for running an inverter - so not much of a modification, really

Another thought would be to try and do the rear lift and the sye in the same day, giving you the proper length in the rear, then driving it like that until you get a chance to do the front. From what I have heard, this is completely reasonable... the front is the difficult portion. Also don't forget to do extended brake lines either before or when you do the rear... you only want to bleed the brakes once. AND PB Blast the hell out of all the bolts if you'd a chanceof doing this without problems. (especially the rear shock bolts up top !!!!!!!!!1)

JeepinAudiophile said:

Another thought would be to try and do the rear lift and the sye in the same day, giving you the proper length in the rear, then driving it like that until you get a chance to do the front.

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I hear you. The only restricting factor on that is pure economics - it's just not going to be possible to do both at the same time. My preference would be to get it all out of the way at once, but it looks like it's not going to happen.

From what I have heard, this is completely reasonable... the front is the difficult portion. Also don't forget to do extended brake lines either before or when you do the rear... you only want to bleed the brakes once. AND PB Blast the hell out of all the bolts if you'd a chanceof doing this without problems. (especially the rear shock bolts up top !!!!!!!!!1)

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And I'm already doing brakes (new rotors, pads, and shoes, plus a bleed) this weekend. Bleh. Why do these things never happen in convenient groups?

Casm, why don't you just buy the SYE now and keep it in your garage/house/apt, even mom's house, wherever you live. Nothing is wrong with buying the parts you want slowly. Do it right the first time. It took me 4 months to get all my parts for the lift. Now 5 months later, I'm working on my skids and I'm about to buy a welder.

Even if you are PB Blasting the hell out of it, I'd still expect some problems. Air tools are your friends, but even sometimes they can't help so you have to call on Ms. Blow-Torch and Mr. Hammer and start heating it up and wacking away. I did this for the Track-Bar and realized that once I hit it one way, I'd have to do it the other way as well. My rear shock mounts broke after 2 months of PB Blaster.

evilpresence said:

Casm, why don't you just buy the SYE now and keep it in your garage/house/apt, even mom's house, wherever you live. Nothing is wrong with buying the parts you want slowly. Do it right the first time.

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I hear you, and totally agree. The main reason I'm chomping at the bit to get all of this done is just that the (stock) suspension currently on it is shot. The back hits the bump stops on speed bumps and street dips, and the front's now starting to go as well. Also, it's at the point where I'm not pushing it as hard off-road as I was simply because the suspension isn't there to deal with the conditions.

My reasoning behind running the SYE at stock height was so that when I come to do the suspension, it's already on. Instead of needing one larger chunk of cash to do the job, I could spread it out over a couple of smaller ones. Granted, this doesn't mean it gets done any faster in the long run - but having progress being made also counts for a lot in my mind

Even if you are PB Blasting the hell out of it, I'd still expect some problems.

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Yup. I figure any project is always going to be at least 30% more difficult than it's anticipated to be. Anything less is a bonus.

My rear shock mounts broke after 2 months of PB Blaster.

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Ouch. That's some *serious* soaking.

casm said:

My reasoning behind running the SYE at stock height was so that when I come to do the suspension, it's already on. Instead of needing one larger chunk of cash to do the job, I could spread it out over a couple of smaller ones. Granted, this doesn't mean it gets done any faster in the long run - but having progress being made also counts for a lot in my mind

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You did say that your stock suspension is pretty much shot, but installing it now (SYE) has a chance of you needing another driveshaft in the future. I figure you are looking to buy the 3" OME lift, shocks, SYE and driveshaft. Unless you plan to go higher which for some reason I don't think you want to, just go for the JB Conversions Standard SYE. If you buy that now, you won't have to worry about it in a month or so. In two weeks get your shocks. The DT3000's are probably your best economical choice. I haven't searched for a price on the OME 3" but I know the 2" is around $800 +/-$150 (that is in Quadratec... very overpriced). Why don't you go for the RE 3.5" and save a little cash there. Then again if it isn't what YOU want don't buy it.

What I'm trying to say is you are going to spend nearly the same amount of cash whether you buy it all at once or spread out. If economically it is better to do it spread out, probably the bet for most of us, then do it that way. I would buy the SYE now but not install it. It's important to get your shaft at the proper length which would be when your new suspension is put on.

i agree that you should wait till you lift it. i had my lift and sye kit sitting in my bedroom floor for over a month before i got it installed. it sucked donkey nuts. cause i would see it every day.

but i got it lifted, then the next saturday, i installed the sye kit. it made it MUCH easier this way because there was much more room to work under it.:thumbup:

evilpresence said:

You did say that your stock suspension is pretty much shot, but installing it now (SYE) has a chance of you needing another driveshaft in the future.

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Hm. Okay. Not that I doubt you, but I'm curious as to why this would be. My stock driveshaft is holding up OK; what would cause the SYE to be an exception to that? Please bear with me on this, I'm new to modifying 4WD vehicles and a search did't turn up a definitive answer on this.

I figure you are looking to buy the 3" OME lift, shocks, SYE and driveshaft. Unless you plan to go higher which for some reason I don't think you want to, just go for the JB Conversions Standard SYE.

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Yep, this is pretty much the plan. What I'm looking at is the OME 3" heavy-duty lift and AA SYE / Tom Woods driveshaft combo. I don't plan to go over 3" - for right now. However, if I do decide to go higher in the future, I'd like for the SYE and driveshaft to be able to adapt to my plans rather than having to replace one or possibly both to suit my needs.

If you buy that now, you won't have to worry about it in a month or so. In two weeks get your shocks. The DT3000's are probably your best economical choice. I haven't searched for a price on the OME 3" but I know the 2" is around $800 +/-$150 (that is in Quadratec... very overpriced). Why don't you go for the RE 3.5" and save a little cash there. Then again if it isn't what YOU want don't buy it.

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I looked into the RE6030 and while it seems like a decent kit, the price difference between it and the OME kit is only around $80 or so from DPG Offroad or Rocky Road Outfitters. Having been in an RE-equipped XJ, it felt a bit stiff on-road - but nearly everyone with the OME is happy with both the on- and off-road manners. To me, since 90% of my time is spent on-road, I really don't want to sacrifice good road manners.

What I'm trying to say is you are going to spend nearly the same amount of cash whether you buy it all at once or spread out. If economically it is better to do it spread out, probably the bet for most of us, then do it that way.

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That's exactly why I wanted to do it this way - amortise the cost out over a bunch of smaller financial hits. Right now, that works out a lot better for me.

I would buy the SYE now but not install it. It's important to get your shaft at the proper length which would be when your new suspension is put on.

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Good point, which leads me on to...

FitchVA said:

but i got it lifted, then the next saturday, i installed the sye kit. it made it MUCH easier this way because there was much more room to work under it.

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I guess I can always run it with driveline vibrations (if there are any) for a few days without running into major problems, provided I take it easy on the big vertical pedal. The increased clearance helping accessibility is a big plus, too, and I can get the shaft measurements post-install.