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Ford 9" and ABS

BornAgainXJer

NAXJA Forum User
I've decided to build up a ford 9" and I have several questions about this.

1. What do I do about the ABS system once this axle is swapped in
2. Will I need new E-brake cables
3. Which year bronco should I pull the third member from.
4. Should I stick with stock axles or beef it up. Which mfg.
5. How much lift will this axle give me
6. How much longer will the pinion be then the D35.

I am only running 33's right now but want 35's in the future also will be running 4.88's and a detriot locker in the f9
 
BornAgainXJer said:
I've decided to build up a ford 9" and I have several questions about this.

1. What do I do about the ABS system once this axle is swapped in
2. Will I need new E-brake cables
3. Which year bronco should I pull the third member from.
4. Should I stick with stock axles or beef it up. Which mfg.
5. How much lift will this axle give me
6. How much longer will the pinion be then the D35.

I am only running 33's right now but want 35's in the future also will be running 4.88's and a detriot locker in the f9


1. Disconnect it.
2. Depends on where you get the axle.
3. Third member or the whole axle? You can get a third member from anything. For the EB axle '76 and '77 were the best years with '77 housing slightly stronger.
4. Again depends on where you get the axle from, what size tires you run, what kind of wheeking you'll be doing. Most likely you'll want 31-spline axles, might as well get alloy, Moser, Superior, Warn, or Currie.
5. ????
6. Don't know how much longer the pinion is, but it is very low requiring a longer driveshaft. The two may cancel out.
 
basalt51 said:
1. Disconnect it.
2. Depends on where you get the axle.
3. Third member or the whole axle? You can get a third member from anything. For the EB axle '76 and '77 were the best years with '77 housing slightly stronger.
4. Again depends on where you get the axle from, what size tires you run, what kind of wheeking you'll be doing. Most likely you'll want 31-spline axles, might as well get alloy, Moser, Superior, Warn, or Currie.
5. ????
6. Don't know how much longer the pinion is, but it is very low requiring a longer driveshaft. The two may cancel out.
Ok, so when you say disconnect it you mean the entire system? Does that cause something to happen with the computer? Also I will buying a new housing from currie.
 
If your buying the housing from currie, then just get the explorer rear brake kit for and additional 399$ then call M.O.R.E. for the e-brake cables 120$. Then the brakes and housings are dialed, maybe upgrade with the skid plate and drain plug.

I wouldn't worry about the ABS, I would look into swaping out the booster/master combo depending on year of your XJ.
 
Clean-RC said:
If your buying the housing from currie, then just get the explorer rear brake kit for and additional 399$ then call M.O.R.E. for the e-brake cables 120$. Then the brakes and housings are dialed, maybe upgrade with the skid plate and drain plug.

I wouldn't worry about the ABS, I would look into swaping out the booster/master combo depending on year of your XJ.
Mine is a 95' why would I want to swap out my booster/master combo?
 
Yep it is the same width. Don't get the sedan version, it is a 28 spline. Although it would still be much stronger than the d35. You could also convert at a later date to the 31 - 40 spline shafts. I would also recommend shaving the bottom of the 9" to get the same if not better clearance than a d35. I ran a 9" 31 spline with a mini spool and 4.57 gearing for a long time behind a 350 and with 35" tires. No problems at all. Don't get 4.56 gearing for it get the 4.57, there is a huge difference. With the 4.56 you have to grind some of the pinion support to get the gearing right, the 4.57 you don't. Buddy of mine had a Currie 9" with 4.56 gears and they had ground off some of the pinion support and it cracked right were they had ground it. Hope this helps.
 
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