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Grinding ring gear teeth.

Lucas

NAXJA Forum User
Location
ZOO YORK CITY
Istalling a no slip and im going to have to grind some teeth down to get the crosspin out. I may have to be doing this in the parking lot of a campground so pulling the carrier isn't an option. Plus Ill be putting in 4:88s soon so its ok for these gears to be a little fugly.
I was just wondeing if a normal metal file would work or are are the teeth too hard? Is there enough room in there to put an angle grinder in?TIA

What about a plasma torch? Would the heat make the gears brittle? Seriously, I think I could crack the cover, blast off the interfering teeth parts, then drive to tellico and install the locker.
 
Why can't you take the diff out??? get a clean plastic bag, 0r tarp to lay everthing out on, & do it right. The ring gear needs to come off, don't grind or torch the teeth.

Rob
 
i wont have a vice at camp. I know some people do grind the teeth, I was just wondering what they use. A plasma cutter keeps the heat decently concentrated. These gears in all actuality ony have to make it through one more wheeling trip.
 
I would just use a dremel or a angle grinder. Seems like a no-brainer to me....

Ary
 
use a grinder.

you don't have to take off that much.

felix, there are some case where you MUST grind the topland of the tooth to install a crosspin on certain numerically high gearsets
 
Beezil said:
use a grinder.

you don't have to take off that much.

felix, there are some case where you MUST grind the topland of the tooth to install a crosspin on certain numerically high gearsets

Good to know, never ran into that.

Thanks

Rob
 
Ill probably grind them down before I head out. I just didn't want to flinf shavings into the case, but then again, its all getting replacd anyway. Just wanted to know if a file would work in a pinch.
 
while a file might work... its gonna work very slowly. I suggest a die grinder with carbide tooling over the grinding wheels. but in all honesty if its 3.55's then I don't think you will need to grind. 4.10 is where the grinding starts in the 8.25. just make sure you use lots or rags and line the inside of the housing with em. kinda like a surgery where the put a towel with a little hole in the middle over the spot that they are going to operate. that way when all the little shavings are flung everywhere the rags catch almost all of it. then take the rages out methodically when you are done so that the loose shavings fall back into the rag or out on the ground.

Absolutly do not use plasma. you will damage the gears heat treatment. the only safe method is grinding. and as Beazel pointed out, it is perfectly ok to grind the crown/toe portion of the ring gear. in fact thats the only way to install a lunchbox locker into a C-clip axle. especially the no-slip.
 
Its actually a D30 im sticking it into. Thanks for the info and that price quote a few days ago. Guess who im ordering my gears and carrier from in a few months :party: :peace:
 
Rawbrown said:
while a file might work... its gonna work very slowly. I suggest a die grinder with carbide tooling over the grinding wheels. but in all honesty if its 3.55's then I don't think you will need to grind. 4.10 is where the grinding starts in the 8.25. just make sure you use lots or rags and line the inside of the housing with em. kinda like a surgery where the put a towel with a little hole in the middle over the spot that they are going to operate. that way when all the little shavings are flung everywhere the rags catch almost all of it. then take the rages out methodically when you are done so that the loose shavings fall back into the rag or out on the ground.

Absolutly do not use plasma. you will damage the gears heat treatment. the only safe method is grinding. and as Beazel pointed out, it is perfectly ok to grind the crown/toe portion of the ring gear. in fact thats the only way to install a lunchbox locker into a C-clip axle. especially the no-slip.
I installed my No-Slip into my 8.25 w/3.55 gears without having to grind anything.

2 months, 3 off road trips and 0 problems.

Later,
Rough
 
Rough 01 said:
I installed my No-Slip into my 8.25 w/3.55 gears without having to grind anything.

2 months, 3 off road trips and 0 problems.

Later,
Rough

right, for 3.55 you wouldn't.

like we said, its only for numercially high (read: thicker ring gear) gear sets, you MUST grind the top of the gear tooth.
 
TNScrambler said:
Hey Lucas, this is Justin from a few of the UT 4wd meetings.

Why are you going to do this in a campground?

Justin

because I may not have time to do it anywhere else. Spent the weekend doing my SYE/Ujoits/brakes/electical problems and I just messed up my rear bakelines severly (broke compression fitting off in brass block). Terry just said it was OK for me to use his shop so hopefully that will work out.

You should come down to tellico this weekend.
 
Hey whats the link to the message board (club board).....don't know if I can make it this weekend or not....may be going to windrock with the other club I belong to (www.et4wd.org). But, I just got an xj a few weeks ago, I'm trying to get ready to wheel....not a whole lot more till I'm back in the woods!

Justin
 
Lucas said:
i wont have a vice at camp. I know some people do grind the teeth, I was just wondering what they use. A plasma cutter keeps the heat decently concentrated. These gears in all actuality ony have to make it through one more wheeling trip.

Why would you need a vise? I did mine with out a vise.
 
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