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SYE vs. Long Yoke

casm

casm

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Oklahoma
In looking into what I'm going to require to do my lift, I ran across the Rubicon Express RE1822 Long Slip Yoke. It's only $20 less than the hack & tap SYE, but appears to eliminate the need for and expense of a CV driveshaft. FWIW, I've got the NP231.

Is there any disadvantage to using these instead of an SYE? I'd prefer to avoid the expense of the SYE and driveshaft for the time being if at all possible, and really do need to get off of the bump-stops and back onto springs ASAP. It'd just be good to get the lift out of the way at the same time.
 
casm said:
In looking into what I'm going to require to do my lift, I ran across the Rubicon Express RE1822 Long Slip Yoke. It's only $20 less than the hack & tap SYE, but appears to eliminate the need for and expense of a CV driveshaft. FWIW, I've got the NP231.

Is there any disadvantage to using these instead of an SYE? I'd prefer to avoid the expense of the SYE and driveshaft for the time being if at all possible, and really do need to get off of the bump-stops and back onto springs ASAP. It'd just be good to get the lift out of the way at the same time.
Click to expand...

How much lift? You have a 2001, they are more prone to vibes.
 
Every Jeep is different. I did the RE 4.5 with full leafs, JB Conversions Super Short and 4degree shims and get vibs at ONLY 5mph. Solution, don't drive 5mph.
 
its a great 'Temp' fix until you break a driveshaft, u-joint, etc. Once you pull that shaft out, its going to be hard driving back with oil draining out. I would save the money and get the SYE. Its better in the long run (I speak from experiance of having to drive back without a rear driveshaft)

-Red

www.JPFabrication.com/Forum
 
evilpresence said:
Every Jeep is different. I did the RE 4.5 with full leafs, JB Conversions Super Short and 4degree shims and get vibs at ONLY 5mph. Solution, don't drive 5mph.
Click to expand...

Agreed :) I'm only planning on doing 2.5" - 3.5" to start (the current frontrunner being the OME Heavy-Duty kit, though I may do the RE 3.5" instead), but will probably go higher later. Right now it's a tradeoff between what I can afford and the need to replace the suspension, and saving my back from trips to the chiropractor is starting to win out - the SYE can (hopefully) be done later if I end up going higher. I'm just curious if this would be a good stop-gap.
 
Redcbr007 said:
its a great 'Temp' fix until you break a driveshaft, u-joint, etc. Once you pull that shaft out, its going to be hard driving back with oil draining out. I would save the money and get the SYE. Its better in the long run (I speak from experiance of having to drive back without a rear driveshaft)

-Red

www.JPFabrication.com/Forum
Click to expand...

Not true, the 2001 have the sealed Tcase. That's wht the SYE only costs $80.
 
casm said:
Agreed :) I'm only planning on doing 2.5" - 3.5" to start (the current frontrunner being the OME Heavy-Duty kit, though I may do the RE 3.5" instead), but will probably go higher later. Right now it's a tradeoff between what I can afford and the need to replace the suspension, and saving my back from trips to the chiropractor is starting to win out - the SYE can (hopefully) be done later if I end up going higher. I'm just curious if this would be a good stop-gap.
Click to expand...


If you didn't have a 2001 I would say try it. The earlier XJ's didn't have as many vibration problems.

Do you have an AT or MT?
 
My 2000 got vibes on the first lift(3"),not even a hack/n/tap worked!Had to do the JB kit to eliminate all vibes!
 
The long travel yoke (aka: YJ yoke) is only like a 1/4" longer than the standard yoke. It appears you have a 2001, which has the redesigned output shaft with a rubber boot on the slip yoke, so you can't even use it anyways, it already has it.
 
I ran the stock driveshaft on my 87 with 3" of lift for about 3 years without a problem. But now I've got RE 5.5" and I had to do it, so I bought a SYE kit with a CV shaft from Tom Woods.
 
Break down and buy the SYE. For the past few years ive been trying to do the little things to get around it and in total its probably cost just about as much as a SYE. I orderd my JB conversions unit this morning.
 
I'm not sure if this has been clairified, but the long travel yolke will do nothing to help vibrations. It will only allow the DS to pull further out of the housing before falling out.
 
ChuckD said:
If you didn't have a 2001 I would say try it. The earlier XJ's didn't have as many vibration problems.
Click to expand...

Hm. OK. Out of curiosity, how much worse does having the sealed transfer case make doing the normal SYE job? Does it change my options as to what I can and can't use?

Do you have an AT or MT?
Click to expand...

Automatic.

From reading everyone's responses, it seems like the best thing to do would be to hold out a bit longer and get the hack & tap SYE and CV driveshaft. How well does the hack & tap SYE do at taller lift heights - say, up to 6"? I see that as being as high as I would probably ever want to go, but would prefer to do the SYE once and forget it if at all possible.

Also, apologies if it seems like I'm flooding the forums with questions lately. Right now I'm just trying to budget all this out over the next year or so, and would like to have a firm idea of where I'm going with the project before I dive in. I can handle plans changing, but I don't like going into major work without a plan in the first place.
 
having the newer t/case with an exposed output shaft will actually make doing the hack'n'tap SYE easier.. no need to remove the tail housing since it doesnt have one.. basically cut the shaft and tap the end of the shaft for the retaining bolt and then bolt on the flange... i havent done mine yet (lifted the 99 last september) and as the rear AAL has settled from 4.5" initial to the current 3" the vibes have all but gone.... except right around 70mph... as far as the RE extended yoke..yes it is an exact duplicate of a YJ yoke.. i have the RE yoke and the sock rear shaft in my 87 that is lifted 5.5" and i have no issues with the shft pulling out and no vibes as well....

mike
 
Not only does it allow more travel on the output shaft, but it ALSO gives more clearance in the u-joint ears than a stock XJ yoke which allows greater angles of the shaft.
 
I measured the difference in length at about 5/16". Check out the difference in clearance. That's the only good reason to get this yoke. It's not a substitute for a SYE. When I bought mine, the dealer was around $100.00, RE was $30.00 or so cheaper, but Rusty had them for $20.00 cheaper than RE.
Jeep_yoke.JPG
 
So if the YJ slip yoke and the Rubicon extended Yoke are identical, could I install a YJ yoke on my stock '98 driveshaft or would it not fit. The Rubicon website says that the extended yoke is only for pre-96 vehicles.
 
labdo86 said:
So if the YJ slip yoke and the Rubicon extended Yoke are identical, could I install a YJ yoke on my stock '98 driveshaft or would it not fit. The Rubicon website says that the extended yoke is only for pre-96 vehicles.
Click to expand...

Your 98 already has the extended yoke on there. All the redesigned output shaft cases (I believe 96+) have it, so purchasing it would be a waste of money.
 
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