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Coilover mounts

XJoachim

XJoachim

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Germany
I'm in the process of fitting my 9100 Bilsteins and i decided to cut away the coil tower and mount them with a hoop under the hood.

You coilover guys, where and how did you mount the hoops and where did you put the electric stuff at the passenger side? I have no clue at the moment where to place them :dunno: :wave1:
 
I was able to relocate the coil onto the firewall and just move the electrical stuff aside, but did not have to relocate the stuff. I have an 88


-Red
 
When you separate the relay array you'll find that there's only 5 wires that need to be cut & lengthened to move the relay array. Just start working with it & you'll find it's not that big of a deal. I mounted the coil under an air filter mount I made up in the stock overflow bottle location, this way I use stock plug wires when I tune up. The relay array is now in a straight line mounted along my crossbar on the passenger side hoop.

To avoid future cracks in your fenderwell, plate the WHOLE inner fenderwell and mount your hoops to it. Some guys just run 2 little plates where the hoops mount, and that's just weak/lame.

-jb
 
XJoachim said:
I'm in the process of fitting my 9100 Bilsteins and i decided to cut away the coil tower and mount them with a hoop under the hood.

You coilover guys, where and how did you mount the hoops and where did you put the electric stuff at the passenger side? I have no clue at the moment where to place them :dunno: :wave1:
Click to expand...

Where're you putting your springs? Or are the 9100's coilovers? (I'm too lazy to google).
Billy
 
The 9100s are coilover :wave:

@vintagespeed
Agree on the plating, have to reinforce the remaining fenderwell a bit. Moving the relais should be makeable also, thanks for that.

I'm more interested in how you did attach the hoops you had to build to the frame. Did you bolt them through the frame rail there? This is what i was hoping to do, maybe a long hoop that attaches at 1 track bar bolt and another custom mount point at the frame. My hoop should be visible when you look in the fender well (at least the 2 bolts and a part of the tubing) and i will attach them to the fender also and build a cross brace (detachable).

Does that sound reasonable?
 
XJoachim said:
The 9100s are coilover :wave:
...........how you did attach the hoops you had to build to the frame........
Click to expand...

I welded the hoops into the frame plating that covers most of the inner fenderwell area. I tied the two hoops together with a bolt in cross brace.

If you're going to cut the coil pockets out & then weld plating to brace the inner fenderwell, why not weld in the hoops? I mean why bolt them in, are you planning on removing the hoops later? Why?

-jb
 
As you know i live in germany and our inspections are ridiculous. Welding to the frame is something they don't like. As i will try to make my rig street legal again i try to avoid welding at the frame rails when it's not really necessary.

Using one of the track bar mount bolts and make another mount is easier to do and is also easier to maintain. Cross brace will be done and maybe i will use the motor mount at the frame side also for stability. I want this to be bolt in because it is also easier to make changes like moving the shock hanger up and down. I can also have them powder coated which gives also a clean look. :wave:
 
Yeah mine's NOT for show.

Anyway, when you cut out your coil pockets HOW THE HELL are you going to strengthen the front end? I'm sure you've heard of "crumple zones" right?

Your front end will be one big crumple zone & I doubt it'll pass inspection missing this vital area of the frame.

-jb
 
The coil towers do nothing for stiffening the front. They are of a bit thicker material to hold up for the vertical forces of the coil. The sheet metal attaches to the frame and there i will attach the shock hoops too. The cross bracing will spread some of the load and helps even out the forces on the front end. The front will not crumple just by removing a piece of sheet metal which is almost 1/16" thick :D

This is also not a vital area of the frame, it's the inner fender well and it weakens the structure less than removing a door will do.

acd.sized.jpg


Mine's not for show too :D
 
XJoachim, I'm with you on the frame issues. Bolt on is better than weld on in most situations. Typically when I weld something on I later find a time when I wish I could remove it. For instance, what if it's in your way to take off the alternator, or some crazy hard to get to bolt.

My XJ has an extra, sleeved hole through the frame behind the steering box. I think I'd use that before the track bar mount. Also, I'd be sure to triangulate the points where the crossbar attaches to the hoops. The hoops are guaranteed to put some twisting forces on the frame rails, and triangulating the mounting points for the crossbrace would surely strengthen them.

Sounds like a lot of fun. Keep us posted.

Jared:patriot:
 
Well, think what you want but ask Goat about cracks in the front frame area........ Anyway, when you do your upper crossbrace, also do a lower one from the TB bracket to the other side frame rail. This will stiffen it up some more. Good luck.

-jb
 
:D This is already done about 6 months ago :D
 
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