OK, here's what I have learned in my D60 swap.
1) Narrow it. I am not sure what year you have but I stongly suggest narrowing it about 6". I just cut down my passenger side by 6" and send my inner to Duthcman to cut and respline for $75. Earlier D60s had longer drivers side axle tube. Just make sure that your coil buckers will fit nicely.
2) Rotate the knuckles up about 12-13*. If you are cutting one side, you may as well do both so you can get a manageable pinion angle. It's not as much work as you would think.
3) There are several write ups on PBB on using 15" wheels with the D60. Chevy calipers are smaller and will fit easier, but the right combo between grinding and backspacing will work. I had hummer rims recentered to 4" BS.
4) Steering. It's cheaper to make high steer with a king pin D60 than a ball joint. Mine is ball joint and I am very pleased with the way it turned out, just a bit more $$ to maching the tops off my knucles flat.
5) 4 link and trackbar. It takes some trial and error to get every thing to clear (oil pan, trackbar to tierod, DS upper to driveshaft). I welded my DS upper right to the diff housing (cast steel on a D60 not cast iron). Tack everything together and cycle the suspension and make sure everything will clear. Also keep in mind that you will likely want to go to a ram assist steering in the future (about one hour after you tear your steering box off of the frame
). Big axles and big tires put big stress on your steering box. Make sure that you at least get the ORGS SBS.
6) A can of Progresso soup is perfect for drawing the same outline as the axle tube when you make your lower brackets!
7) Doing a 60 clean and proper takes a lot of time. I spent hours under my rig staring at everything and making sure it would all work. I STILL ended up pulling the axle out when I was "done" and cut and rotated my knuckles to correct a horrible pinion angle. I had to rebuild every bracket on the axle when I did this, but it was worth it.
Good luck
SeanP
