spkshasha
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Sayreville, New Jersey 08872
Does anybody know the hardware needed to bolt on the front skid and the gas tank skid? I am looking to buy both, but none of the ones i keep finding have the hardware. Thanks
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Skid plate hardware
- Thread starter spkshasha
- Start date
RichP
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Effort, Pa
For the rear you need the nut cert plates, do a search on the forums and the part number should crop up, we had this discussion about a week or two ago. You need to remove your rear bumper and put the plates inside the frame rails so start soaking your bolts now with powerblaster and continue on a daily basis for about a week or so.
For the front the plate has two big bolts that attach on the frame itself and then 4 or 6 stud like bolts that attach on that cross piece under the radiator. If you have your rubber splash shield on under the engine still thats where it attaches in the front. I ran the studs thru the pre-drilled and tapped holes, put a washer on the other side and backed up with a nut for strength. Then I picked up 4 or 6 more nylock nuts for the skid plate attachement.
When reassembling everything use plenty of anti-seize on ALL the nuts and bolts you put back together. While you are at it you might want to also order the factory rear tow hook bracket, that attaches to the drivers side using the same bolts as the skid plate and you will need to purchase two more nuts, bolts and lock washers, 1/2" if I remember correctly to attach the cross piece of the bracket to the rear cross member, there are already two holes drilled for this purpose but they are not threaded, I used stainless steel and antiseize when I did it.
For the front the plate has two big bolts that attach on the frame itself and then 4 or 6 stud like bolts that attach on that cross piece under the radiator. If you have your rubber splash shield on under the engine still thats where it attaches in the front. I ran the studs thru the pre-drilled and tapped holes, put a washer on the other side and backed up with a nut for strength. Then I picked up 4 or 6 more nylock nuts for the skid plate attachement.
When reassembling everything use plenty of anti-seize on ALL the nuts and bolts you put back together. While you are at it you might want to also order the factory rear tow hook bracket, that attaches to the drivers side using the same bolts as the skid plate and you will need to purchase two more nuts, bolts and lock washers, 1/2" if I remember correctly to attach the cross piece of the bracket to the rear cross member, there are already two holes drilled for this purpose but they are not threaded, I used stainless steel and antiseize when I did it.
- Location
- Terra Firma
Craig Houghtaling's article on how to lower the front skid also covers the fasteners, I believe:
http://www.olypen.com/craigh/skid.htm
It's best to buy the nut strips for the rear skid new. Used ones have a way of getting mangled, if you can get the bolts out of them at all. The bolts for the rear skid are M12x1.75, I believe. The factory ones are flange-head, which are almost impossible to find.
http://www.olypen.com/craigh/skid.htm
It's best to buy the nut strips for the rear skid new. Used ones have a way of getting mangled, if you can get the bolts out of them at all. The bolts for the rear skid are M12x1.75, I believe. The factory ones are flange-head, which are almost impossible to find.
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