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$100 Xj

B

baseballneal86

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Damascus, MD
Well I just scored an `88 XJ at the local police salvage auction for $100. It's a four door w/ the 4.0, auto, and 231 case. 163,000 miles on it but the underside is in great shape.
What should I change/replace before I think about driving it? I also have a `95 XJ so what are some of the pros/cons between the two years? This is going to become my "trail rig" so plans include 37's, at least Dana 44's, leaves up front, etc.
One last question. For those of you with an older XJ like this, what are some "necesary" upgrades for hard core wheeling? Thanks
 
Obviously, change ALL fluids. On an unknown vehicle that was probably not well cared for (ever see a police auction vehicle that was a cream puff?), that should include tranny filter and fluid, and a full bleed of the brake system.

You have no maintenance records, so I would assume it probably needs an oxygen sensor and change that. Once you have it running, you may find that it needs a catalytic converter.

If the spark plug wires appear to be original, a set of AutoZone house brand ignition wires would be a good investment, along with a set of spark plugs, cap, and rotor.

The weak spot is that plastic coolant bottle on the passenger side of the firewall. That is a pressure bottle -- do NOT open it when the system is hot. If the bottle cracks or warps and won't hold pressure, you'll have an overheating problem. Many fixes are discussed on the forums, including converting to a radiator with a cap like on your other XJ, but Quadratec sells the bottle and cap for about $19, so that's a cheap way out if the radiator is doing it's job. If the radiator is the original, it's past due and you should budget now for replacing it.
 
"necesary" upgrades for hard core wheeling?

What kind? The XJ is a great platform to start off with. A little 3" lift and some 31's have been all I've needed. Granted I'm playing in the sand, and formerly, the mud. Got tired of electrical corrosion problems so I try and keep the Cheif dry now.

No matter what you do Eagle is right, dump every fluid in it and put some fresh stuff in. I'd swap to synthetics go clean up some of the gunk in the engine. Clean out the TB and see how much oil, if any, oil the CCV is dumping into the air filter- pretty common problem at that age. If the fuel injectors are original they might start leaking soon. :D I carry both dry chem and foam extinguishers. I just don't think dry chem will work so well under the hood. :flame:

As for the rest, you'll be fixing stuff as you go or you can sell it to me for $200 and double your money!
 
Re: $100 XJ

baseballneal86 said:
Just found out that the jeep actually has the 5 speed, not the AW4. Is this tranny any good? Thanks
Click to expand...


It's a Peugeot BA10 trans. I think Peugeot says it all... :helpme:
 
Well I got the jeep home today and started digging into it. It's missing the passenger side swaybar link, the connection between the draglink and the steering box (it's not the pitman arm), and 5 lug nuts. Also a bunch of the wheel studs are wrecked, the console around the shifter is broken, there is a chip in the windshield, almost every bushing is shot (would it be best to replace these with rubber or poly?), and it has a power steering leak somewhere. But....

I found $10.89 in change, 7 road flares, lots of miscelaneous tools, and a whole box of rubber gloves. So for a grand total of $89.11, I have an `88 XJ that will pass inspection wth only a little work. Gotta love police auctions :D
 
baseballneal86 said:
It's missing the passenger side swaybar link, the connection between the draglink and the steering box (it's not the pitman arm),...
Click to expand...
??? The connection between the drag link and the steering box IS the pitman arm. Or is it missing the tie rod end at the upper end of the drag link?

... almost every bushing is shot (would it be best to replace these with rubber or poly?), ...
Click to expand...
Depends on your intended use and preferences. Poly doesn't flex as well as rubber, rides harsher, and doesn't last as long. Other than that, it's "better." :) IMHO poly is for street performance types who want maximum steering response and a "crisp" suspension.
 
It's where the track bar attaches to the frame, not the drag link (my bad). I guess I will be using all new rubber bushings since I'm building this for the trails, not the track.

Kinda of topic, but my engine bay and underside are pretty greasy. What would be the best way to get rid of all the muck?
 
I've got an '88 that has just about everything replaced at one time or another....
A few things to watch on the horizon:

CPS sensor

TPS sensor

fuel injectors if still oem

and definately check your cooling components...don't be surprised if ya buy a GDI 3row radiator in the future.

alternator

starter

well...at $89.11 your well ahead of the game :D

course my odometer is well over 200k
 
BskisXJ, the Montgomery County Police Abandoned Vehicle auctions are held on the 4th Saturday of every month. The auction site is right next to the Gaithersburg MVA off of Clopper Rd. There are usually 4 or 5 XJ's there every month that go for under $1000. I also got a `95 with 90,000 miles that had been in a minor front end collision for $900 from the auction. You have to be 18 and have valid ID to get in, or since I'm only 17, I just get my dad to go with me.
 
Turns out that the track bar is completely diconnected at the frame. The ballstud is still attached to the frame tho. Does this mean I need to get a whole new track bar?
 
baseballneal86 said:
Turns out that the track bar is completely diconnected at the frame. The ballstud is still attached to the frame tho. Does this mean I need to get a whole new track bar?
Click to expand...

Unless it has an aftermarket track bar with a replaceable tie rod end ... yes. See if there's a Crown Auto Parts dealer/distributor near you. Their stuff is good quality and much less expensive than dealer. Or buy it from Quadratec.
 
baseballneal86, THANKS! Appreciate the insider info. I'll have to go and check it out. I have a 91 XJ that I would like to get another engine for.
 
Is there supposed to be any play in the tie rod? I can rock it back and forth about an inch and I dont think it is supposed to do that. Is it time for new tie rod ends?
 
baseballneal86 said:
Is there supposed to be any play in the tie rod? I can rock it back and forth about an inch and I dont think it is supposed to do that. Is it time for new tie rod ends?
Click to expand...
baseballneal86 said:
Anybody? Also, I plan on lifting this jeep to fit 37's. Could I just buy an aftermarket track bar now and use it with no lift until I lift it?
Click to expand...
The tie rod end is a ball joint. It should be free to ROTATE several degrees, as in if you were to twist the track bar (which you should not be able to do if the bushing in the axle end isn't worn). However, there should be no lateral play.

I believe most of the aftermarket adjustable track bars are too long for a stock height vehicle, but Rusty's is supposed to work at stock height. I've never been certain if he only has one, or if he has a different one for taller lifts. If you buy his, be sure to specify that you want one that'll work for stock height now and for a lift later.
 
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