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Stock slip yolk converted to SYE???
- Thread starter BUCKYXJ
- Start date
XJeeper05
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Augusta, Ga
Yes that is what a hack and tap SYE from RE does. Look on their site to get one. You will need a new slip shaft with a special bracket on the end to make it work.
BUCKYXJ said:
This is what you'd find in the middle of an egg. A yoke is what you find on the end of a transfercase.
Personally, I'm planning to use the stock yoke for a homemade SYE. I plan to drill/tap the output shaft for an 1/8" bolt and just bolt the yoke onto the output shaft. Add a driveline and you're done. I might have to use some washers to keep the yoke from being pushed too far into the case, who knows. Just my 2 cents...
Jared
atriot:
Last edited:
That is what I am lookin at also I am from oklahoma and it is yolk.DeadEyeJ said:This is what you'd find in the middle of an egg. A yoke is what you find on the end of a transfercase.
Personally, I'm planning to use the stock yoke for a homemade SYE. I plan to drill/tap the output shaft for an 1/8" bolt and just bolt the yoke onto the output shaft. Add a driveline and you're done. I might have to use some washers to keep the yoke from being pushed too far into the case, who knows. Just my 2 cents...
Jared
logdog
NAXJA Member #703
- Location
- Riverton, UT
Your kidding right? A 1/8" bolt?? Good luck with that one. I'm sure you could make an acceptable home made SYE, but for my .02 leave the drivetrain components to people who know what they are doing. I'm just glad your rig is bright yellow that way I know to get out of the way.DeadEyeJ said:Personally, I'm planning to use the stock yoke for a homemade SYE. I plan to drill/tap the output shaft for an 1/8" bolt and just bolt the yoke onto the output shaft. Add a driveline and you're done. I might have to use some washers to keep the yoke from being pushed too far into the case, who knows. Just my 2 cents...
Jared
-A lead footed hillbilly.
logdog
NAXJA Member #703
- Location
- Riverton, UT
That sounds a lot more reasonable! I believe that is what RE runs in theirs. But dont quote me.
RichP
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Effort, Pa
The other way is to drill 3 holes in the slip yoke and then thread them, use them to 'pin' the slip yoke to the output shaft. A couple have done it but you do need a new DS with a slip yoke in it if you do this. One downside and it's a big one, the output shaft on the slip yoke 231 is friggin LONG which is part of the problem. While pinning it will work you still have that weakness of the SY hanging so far out. The hack and tap is a better solution even though it costs more. Also a YJ slip yoke is longer than a stock XJ so thats an option too.
TCXJWAGONEER
NAXJA Forum User
I plan on doing this mod. will a 4.0 XJ front shaft from an auto work for the new CV rear shaft?
Tommy
Tommy
RichP
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Effort, Pa
TCXJWAGONEER said:
Don't know but you could look at it, check measurements and spline count, they vary between years. Also don't know if the front output setup is as strong as the rear setup, I've got alot to learn about tc's and such. Concentraing on axles and diffs right now
specifically the 8.25 and the D30HP. Actually I will be pulling both driveshafts next week for a regear so now that you gave me the idea guess I'll take some measuring tools with me and give it a look see. Be a good use for blownup and discarded 231's if it would work which makes for an interesting question to pose.jmop
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Salem, Oregon
NP231 Slip Yoke with CV Head attachment
Six States Distributors part # 3103-27
Cost 80.11 + SH
You can use the stock XJ front shaft in the rear if you have enough lift, worked fine for me with 6" of lift. Total cost of CV style SYE was like $100 with drive shaft.
Six States Distributors part # 3103-27
Cost 80.11 + SH
You can use the stock XJ front shaft in the rear if you have enough lift, worked fine for me with 6" of lift. Total cost of CV style SYE was like $100 with drive shaft.
Mingez
NAXJA Forum User
jmop said:
Do have that website handy?
Check out this link. Scroll down a little and look at my old drivshaft.
Dan.
Dan.
jmop
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Salem, Oregon
The website is http://www.sixstates.com/ last i checked they didn't have an online ordering system so you will have to call them up. It isn't for any "year" of xj. It is a cv head slip yoke for the NP231. It has to be modified to work as a SYE. TRNDRVR's pic is exacly what it looks like. You can also modify your t-case to use it as a hack and tap SYE.
Ok so I call and order that part is it a spicer part? I get discounts on spicer parts locally. anyway so I get that drill and tap the yoke and output shaft insert a 3/4" bolt or something around that size in. then I am gonna use an XJ front shaft as my rear shaft and have it cut or extended which ever I need. then bolt up the double cardon and that should be it am I correct?
Lawn Cher'
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Westampton, NJ
I did precisely what you originally asked about, fixing the stock slip yoke to the output shaft. I've set it up on 2 different '96+ 231's seeing a mix of road and trail duty, which are sealed independently of the slip yoke, so the procedure for your T-case may be slightly different, but the concept works. The only drawback is having to press the U-joints out of the yoke instead of undoing 4 bolts for a proper yoke to remove the driveshaft.
I cut the output shaft and the yoke shorter to improve the U-joint operating angles, leaving about 1" of spline engagement. I used a 3/8" bolt, drilling a clearance hole in the yoke and tapping the output shaft. The output shaft is case hardened, so you can't drill it unless the end is cut.
You must then have a slip joint installed in your stock driveshaft, which can run a wide range of costs depending on the shop that does it. I wound up not saving much money over a commercial SYE kit, unfortunately, but I did prove that it works. So, depending on how aggressively you wheel and how quick you are at changing U-joints, you may or may not want to attempt this project.
I cut the output shaft and the yoke shorter to improve the U-joint operating angles, leaving about 1" of spline engagement. I used a 3/8" bolt, drilling a clearance hole in the yoke and tapping the output shaft. The output shaft is case hardened, so you can't drill it unless the end is cut.
You must then have a slip joint installed in your stock driveshaft, which can run a wide range of costs depending on the shop that does it. I wound up not saving much money over a commercial SYE kit, unfortunately, but I did prove that it works. So, depending on how aggressively you wheel and how quick you are at changing U-joints, you may or may not want to attempt this project.
jmop
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Salem, Oregon
BUCKYXJ said:
Well I don't think you are going to use a 3/4" bolt maby a 3/8" also I would tack the plug on the end of the yoke with a welder to make sure it doesn't come out and I am not sure if it is a Spicer part number but you could try.
Other than that yes.
Also if you have the early style 231 with the seal that rides on the slip yoke you will need to address that seal. You can fab up a short cone with some steel and pipe or you can use a late modle output cone and shaft so the seal is on the output shaft.
jmop
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Salem, Oregon
Lawn Cher you used an non-CV style right?