Blower Wiring Problems

I recently took my '92 XJ Limited in to a mechanic to fix the blower motor. Turns out the only problem was the resistor panel. Yesterday, about a month after getting it fixed, I switched my heat on and fried the panel yet again. I tried to solder it because I'd heard that it can still work on high, but it still didn't work. Checked the fuse, it was blown. I don't want to have to keep buying new resistor panels from the stealership, any ideas on what might be wrong? Also, there was a 30 amp fuse in a spot that says "FL/Pass" and is meant to be a 15, right next to the blower fuse. I don't know if that could possibly have anything to do with it, in any case, if anyone has any ideas, let me know!

Well, now my front driver's side shock snapped off at the bottom, apparently the bolts at the bottom broke. Anyone know what size those bolts are? I really don't know anything about how sizing works with bolts. Also, still looking for some help with my above question if anyone has any ideas.

If it says a 15 amp should be in there and there's a 30 someone was asking for a fire. As far as the bolts go an example is 1/4-20. That means the bolt is 1/4" wide at the threads. The 20 is the thread pitch. They can tighten up the thread pattern fo make it a finer thread. You would then add the length of the bolt on top of that. 1/4-20 x 1 1/2 would be a 1/4-20 that is an inch and a half long I believe from the start of the bolt (under the head) to the end of the threads. If I remember right it might be a 1/4-20 or maybe a 5/16. I don't know the length but I remember replacing those on my shocks and they weren't very big. I believe I used a nut and a bolt (use a lock washer).
Back to the fuse, it sounded like someone before you had a problem and either didn't have a 15 amp so they threw in the 30 and that was the cause of all the major problems (ie. fried some wires that are now grounding out) or they were having problems with the fuse blowing because something major wasn't working right and put in the 30 to keep it from blowing. Not good either way.

Another note.... that resistor panel (the rheostat I believe, a series of springs on a plate screwed into the blower box under the passenger side dash) needs to stay in the blower box when energized. The coils on it heat up red hot when removed from the airflow from the blower motor and could burn out. Make sure you don't have power going through it, better yet unplug the harness at it, when removing it.