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Cut fenders and ready, but how much lift...

RockRod

RockRod

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Janesville Ca
How much lift do I need on my 2001 XJ with cut fenders???
Worried about up travel???
Got picks.... :dunno:
Also, gears.... 4.88??? :dunno:
 
I forgot....To fit 37's!!!!
 
Depending on how much you want to cut, no lift, 10 inches of lift, or anything in between :D
 
Rubicon Express 5.5" Exteme Duty kit (netting 6.5") and 37" MT/R's on 15x8" Eagle 186 with 3 1/4" BS.

100_0042.jpg

100_0045.jpg

100_0048.jpg

100_0049.jpg


Rear is trimmed enough, but the front needs a little more and more bumpstops. Bumpstops are very important with this much tire and this little lift.
 
i have a 2000 xj with the 5.5 XD lift...and with my 33's...it does rub in the front...I had to remove the inside plastic from the wheelwells and take off those gaudy plastic corners for the front bumber....and I still need to trim. For my style of wheeling...well at least until I get another DD...33's is all the tire I need....
 
for 37s, you're going to want deeper than 4.88s. 4.88s is perfect with my 33s, so I'm kinda sad I'm putting the 35s on in 2 weeks. you'll also need stronger axles for 37s, which is conveinent, since the D30 only goes to 4.88s.

soo.... get D44s or a D44 front and D60 rear, and put 5.38s in them.

for lift; I say get 6 to 7 inches, but forget kits for the front since you're gonna need to swap axles anyway, do something custom.


I hope you realize that you only have 3 choices to be able to run 37s:

1) REALLY expensive, and time consuming
2) REALLY time consuming, and expensive
3) Very time consuming and very expensive

well, I guess there is a 4th choice: cheap, easy, but break a lot of stuff and have it suck on-road and off-road.
 
Here are a couple of pics from my recent triming. Fenders trimed with the body lines. Custom body shop

right.jpg

front.jpg

rear.jpg


I don't have any fex shots yet, still working out the bugs in the suspension.
 
for 37s u should run what i will.

D44 front and rear w/ 5.13s and ARB Air Lockers(u dont need any more gear than that if its gona be a DD)
Rusty's 6.5" Long Arm(i may still go to the 8", if i dont though i may do poly spacers)
Cutting fenders out almost completely(you dont need em anyway)
 
37's on a D44 rear?? Though you might be okay, you are really pushing it. You should really think about a 60, or at least some high quality chromo shafts. Your next weakest point will be your ring gear bolts on the 44.
 
mad maXJ said:
for 37s, you're going to want deeper than 4.88s. 4.88s is perfect with my 33s, so I'm kinda sad I'm putting the 35s on in 2 weeks. you'll also need stronger axles for 37s, which is conveinent, since the D30 only goes to 4.88s.

soo.... get D44s or a D44 front and D60 rear, and put 5.38s in them.
Click to expand...

I dont know where you got that from. But for a manual with 33s you are supposed to have 4:10s. FOr an auto you need 4:56s.
35s: man-4:56s
auto- 4:88s
37s: man- 4:88s
auto-5:13s

I dont know where you got your numbers from but I thought this was common knowledge.
I would get a 60 for the rear and a 44 for the front though. Either that or duel 44s and truss the rear. my .02
 
He got his numbers from the real world - what he's actually running and the way it feels to him. My real world experience tells me that 4.88s are good with 35s and an auto, but I sure would like to try 33s with 4.88s or 5.13s with 35s.

Where did you get your numbers?
 
Phil Weeks said:
He got his numbers from the real world - what he's actually running and the way it feels to him. My real world experience tells me that 4.88s are good with 35s and an auto, but I sure would like to try 33s with 4.88s or 5.13s with 35s.

Where did you get your numbers?
Click to expand...
EXACTLY!

I have had:

3.07/28"/manual
3.07/31"/manual
3.55/31"/manual
3.55/33"/manual
4.10/33"/manual
4.10/33"/auto
4.88/33"/auto

I think it's safe to say I have pretty good experience with different gearing, the goal IS NOT to return RPMs to stock.

the last one (4.88/33"/auto) is by far the best, and I'm sure I'm going to be a little sad to put the 35s on next week.
 
mad maXJ said:
EXACTLY!

I have had:

3.07/28"/manual
3.07/31"/manual
3.55/31"/manual
3.55/33"/manual
4.10/33"/manual
4.10/33"/auto
4.88/33"/auto

I think it's safe to say I have pretty good experience with different gearing, the goal IS NOT to return RPMs to stock.

the last one (4.88/33"/auto) is by far the best, and I'm sure I'm going to be a little sad to put the 35s on next week.
Click to expand...
Good list, but the one thing y'all seem to be overlooking is the engine. These numbers are all for 4.0L or strokers, right? I ran a 4-cyl XJ with 5.38s and an auto last fall and 33" tires...going 70 on the freeway was possible, and although I don't recall the exact tach reading the engine wasn't screaming...much. On the trail is where it shone though with a decent crawl ratio and not too much call for the brakes.

What's my point? 4-cyl engines typically call for a few steps higher gearing. That's why you find stock 4.10s in the 4-cyl when a 6-cyl auto usually has 3.55 and sticks get 3.07 (with exceptions, of course)
 
I only wish it were mine...it's the "company car" from the RE catalogs. I 'won' it for a weekend in a contest they held including admission to the 25th Jeep Jamboree over the Rubicon.

Anyway, it had a Dana 44 up front with a Trutrac, and a Currie-built Dana 60 with a Detroit...I offered to pay my own way in if I could keep the keys but had to turn it over on Monday anyway. Bummer...
 
Oh right on. That seems like a lot of axle to be running "just" 33s on. Did you have bad clearance problems under the diffs?
 
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