Welding to the unibody....any tips on not burning through??and is 6013 strong enough?

Ok, I started welding on my Clayton's X-member Thursday night and promptly blew two holes in the frame(small holes). I managed to fill them in with 3/32 E6013 turned way down, and then made a few passes with this rod. Basically doing a root pass and then a bunch of cover passes, building up the weld. I blew the holes using 1/8 E7018. What I need to know is if I can get enough penetration and strength using 6013 and running such narrow beads. The beads look perfect, nice and sunk in and look like they penetrated really well(no undercutting), but they're only 3/16"-1/4" wide. What do you guys think? This is all with a 220V AC/DC Miller, I have access to a 110 MIG, should I be using this instead? BTW, Clayton's "new and improved" X-member also bolts on utilizing the factory x-member bolts. What do you guys think? Does it sound like I'm over my head? Thanks

Ary

P.S. I would have someone professional do it, but there's no one around here that has the skills and is willing to work on a car(liability).

Re: Welding to the unibody....any tips on not burning through??and is 6013 strong enough?

Use the mig!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Just take your time and make some good slow passes. Don't try and weld too much at a time with it, work with in it's ability of power and you'll do MUCH better than with the stick.

mark

Re: Welding to the unibody....any tips on not burning through??and is 6013 strong enough?

Mark Hinkley said:

Use the mig!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Just take your time and make some good slow passes. Don't try and weld too much at a time with it, work with in it's ability of power and you'll do MUCH better than with the stick.

mark

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yep, what he said. I CANNOT imagine trying to control the heat so as not to burn thru the frame with a stick. Yes, the pros can probably do it, but not us weekend hacks. I welded on my 3x3 angle for my LA cross member years ago with my old lincoln 110. Keep most of the puddle on theticker metal andmove the the puddle a bit onto the sheet metal. Make sure you have prepped the hell out the area, get all that zinc off the frame.

SeanP

Re: Welding to the unibody....any tips on not burning through??and is 6013 strong enough?

I agree with Mark and Sean that it's easier with the mig. Grind off as much of the galvenized as you can, but don't grind so much that you make the metal thinnner. I've welded a lot of stuff on my rig with a stick, since I didn't have a mig until recently, and it can be done. The key is to go slow and not get it too hot or the puddle too big......pull the stick away, then back, then away, then back.....you know how to weld, just reinforcing that. Personally, I don't like 6013 rod on the thin stuff, it seems to leave too much slag (and potential holes), but that could be just because I don't know how to use it. 7018 is too hard to weld upside down, the puddle runs out too quick for me (again, probably because I'm only a hobby welder), so I like staying with good old 6011 rod for all the position welds I do on the Jeep.

Re: Welding to the unibody....any tips on not burning through??and is 6013 strong enough?

Been way too long since I've welded, but just make sure you've got ventilation. Heated zinc (galvanized) gives off toxic fumes, so at least try and be upwind, while yer doing that. You prolly knew that, but, hell, I had to point it out.

Re: Welding to the unibody....any tips on not burning through??and is 6013 strong enough?

I had a hard enough time welding my crossmember on with my hobart 175. You sir, are crazy.

Re: Welding to the unibody....any tips on not burning through??and is 6013 strong enough?

Agree with above!
A Mig welder offers much more control....but, if you must, 6011/13 will work,
that rod was developed as a Root rod or Tack rod, to be followed by 7018/24
or others available......the weld, pull away, weld..pull away technique as
mentioned above is good advice.....stick or mig on the uni-body.

Re: Welding to the unibody....any tips on not burning through??and is 6013 strong enough?

I like to sand blast the unibody before welding, otherwise I get too much outgassing and can't get a decent weld. I use a mig at about 75amps on .035 wire diamter.

Re: Welding to the unibody....any tips on not burning through??and is 6013 strong enough?

To clean the unibody I hit it with the wirewheel on the angle grinder until all the paint/undercoating was gone, do I need to grind it as well?

Re: Welding to the unibody....any tips on not burning through??and is 6013 strong enough?

Safari Ary said:

To clean the unibody I hit it with the wirewheel on the angle grinder until all the paint/undercoating was gone, do I need to grind it as well?

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No, wire wheels work great.

mark

Re: Welding to the unibody....any tips on not burning through??and is 6013 strong enough?

I've welded stuff to my XJ using a MIG with w/.035 wire. It does the job, but if you have ability to run argon...by all means - do it! The argon gas shielding really makes for a pretty weld :loveu:
You COULD try 5P rod - 6010 strength, but unless you have good control and some practice with overhead position welds on thin metal....I'd be just as happy with a MIG joint :greensmok ....I mean weld! :twak: :laugh:

BLUTO :wave1:

Re: Welding to the unibody....any tips on not burning through??and is 6013 strong enough?

...you said joint......you are a bad bad man..... :cheers: