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Redline Water Wetter

Lucas

NAXJA Forum User
Location
ZOO YORK CITY
Last time I went out wheeling I ended up overheating really badly, which was a surprise as wheeling last summer in 95+ temps with the AC on was no problem. Turns out my Tstat was stuck closed.
Went to autozone and got a 180 degree stat, and while I was there I picked up some of the redline stuff. Popped open the Tstat housing (coolant was low from boiling over) replaced the Tstat and put in teh redline stuff and topped off the system with distilled H20.
Im runnig dual electric fans with a GDI 3core. Usually the temp gauge climbs between 210 and red before the fans kick on and the temp drops below 210. Idling it usually hovers a little past 210, a little warmer than sock.
After the new Tstat and the water wetter, the temp hovers below 210, and if the fans kick on from the AC, it drops probably another 10-15 degrees. It worries me that im running in open mode at that temp, but it was barley 80 degrees and not terribly humid either. The immediate temp change is definitely due to the new Tstat, but its also definitely running a little cooler (I think) because of the redline stuff. Just thought you might want to know with summer coming up :viking:
 
I've heard very good things about Redline's Water Wetter....for bringing down the water temp.
 
I don't even remember where I read it now, it's been a while. But I've talked to mechanics that told me the same thing. What I've read and been told is that it basically creates a thin layer that causes the water to bead against the engines internal surface, this in turn causes gaps of air between the surfaces and the coolant which yes can cause the water temp to drop as there becomes an insulating layer of air to hamper the dipersion of heat from the engine to the coolant but causes the actual temps of the internal surfaces (i.e. Heads, etc.) to acctually be hotter than normal or than they should be increasing the chance of warped heads and higher engine temps while the temp gauge leads you to believe you are running cooler. Don't know for a fact if how much truth there is to it but that's what I read and have been told.
 
Christopher said:
What I've read and been told is that it basically creates a thin layer that causes the water to bead against the engines internal surface, this in turn causes gaps of air between the surfaces and the coolant which yes can cause the water temp to drop as there becomes an insulating layer of air to hamper the dipersion of heat from the engine to the coolant but causes the actual temps of the internal surfaces (i.e. Heads, etc.) to acctually be hotter than normal or than they should be increasing the chance of warped heads and higher engine temps while the temp gauge leads you to believe you are running cooler.QUOTE]

Just from a chemistry standpoint I would say that is BS. Mechanics have told me some funny things too.
I try to keep my cooling system in tip top shape and I think the wetter just helps a good system run better. I don't think it will do anything to "fix" a hurting cooling system.Sorry it didn't work out for you though.
 
Christopher said:
I don't even remember where I read it now, it's been a while. But I've talked to mechanics that told me the same thing. What I've read and been told is that it basically creates a thin layer that causes the water to bead against the engines internal surface, this in turn causes gaps of air between the surfaces and the coolant which yes can cause the water temp to drop as there becomes an insulating layer of air to hamper the dipersion of heat from the engine to the coolant but causes the actual temps of the internal surfaces (i.e. Heads, etc.) to acctually be hotter than normal or than they should be increasing the chance of warped heads and higher engine temps while the temp gauge leads you to believe you are running cooler. Don't know for a fact if how much truth there is to it but that's what I read and have been told.
that kinda makes sense to me. it seems that the only way to remove more heat from the system would be with a larger radiator, more air-flow, etc. But it seems like you could have the system absorb more heat by having a liquid that can hold more heat than water. But if there's one thing i remember from chemistry, it's that water has one of the highest heat capacities of anything, and adding a little of another chemical doesn't seem like it could change that much.
 
93GRNXJ said:
as it seems to me, this does not make a huge diffrence, just a tiny bit, so maybe it makes the water boil at a higher temp/lower pressure?

Thats the purpose of the anti-freeze. I did the calculations a while back and felt that 30% anti-freeze was perfect for me. I can dig out my text-books and try to figure out how the watter wetter works.
MADmaXJ is probably right, its more than likely something about specific heat.
 
I have used it with good results also. I sort of look at it like soap and water. Water cleans your hands, but if you add a drop of soap it works that much better. SO ultimately what soap does is make water wetter. I would assume that water wetter the product works in a similar way. Or I could just be blowing smoke, but it seems to make sense.
Dustin
 
I always thought it was like LT1XJ is saying. The water wetter breaks the surface tension of the water actually enabling better contact between the metal surface and the water, thus better heat transfer. It also supposedly works best in water than water/antifreeze mixes. This tells me that maybe the anitfreeze has some similar properties to the water wetter.

Then again, I may just be talking out my A$$.

The following is FACT: I tried using it and saw no difference.
 
Hey guys, I race shifter karts and everyone uses the stuff. It DOES work, you may not really see a difference I guess, but in a high performance kart, you definately notice.
 
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