Axel wrap fixes?

I have a RE lift kit (okay, I have parts of a RE lift kit) that includes a lift block...overall I like how the rear is working, save for one thing....axel wrap.The only time I ever notice it is one the street...don't like it...can't be good.....
Solutions?
Rick

Traction bar. DOnt know too much bout em but its an option

BIG98XJ said:

Traction bar. DOnt know too much bout em but its an option

Click to expand...

the jeep forum at PBB has some great threads on traction bars. do a search over there. It's wise to address this now before you trash your new pretty springs.

SeanP

Pbb?

warning: www.pirate4x4.com is considered graduate school level rig building. Try the jeep and gen4x4 forums for wrap bars. There is great information there, an archive that goes back several years, so search and lurk before you post there.

Antiwrap bars all will take into account some levels of fabrication experience. I built probably the most complicated POS anit wrap bar just to be different. Does it work better than a ladder bar style? Who knows, but it's great conversation piece for when I am wheeling in my garage

SeanP

SeanP said:

warning: www.pirate4x4.com is considered graduate school level rig building. Try the jeep and gen4x4 forums for wrap bars. There is great information there, an archive that goes back several years, so search and lurk before you post there.

Antiwrap bars all will take into account some levels of fabrication experience. I built probably the most complicated POS anit wrap bar just to be different. Does it work better than a ladder bar style? Who knows, but it's great conversation piece for when I am wheeling in my garage

SeanP

Click to expand...

One of these days maybe I'll have a chance to see it.....and maybe even see it in use.

There are basically two solutions to spring wrap that work in our situation (there are other ways, but they generally won't work for wheeling). One is to have a half leaf on the front half of the springs that sits on top of the main leaf and is snail wraped around the front spring eye. This adds stiffness to just the front half of the leaf, so has a small effect on spring stiffness and flex, but works well to control wrap.

The other is to use a traction bar. The concept on a bar that works for wheeling is a single bar that uses pivots of some kind on the front attachment point, usually the cross member or skid plate. The pivots can be a shackle, with or without a johnny joint at one end, or a couple of heim joints. The front of the bar can move forward/backward, side to side, and twist, but it can't move up and down. This allows the rear axle to articulate without binding but it won't let the axle rotate, stopping axle wrap. There are a few variations on the concept, but that's the general idea. Sam's Offroad makes one you can buy, you'd just have to weld a little for a front mount.

Sam's Offroad Look for the traction bar.

Here's what I did.

As I see it.....a traction bar must run at the same angle as your drive shaft. Since yours starts near the rear center line but continues to just below your output shaft.....does that not create a rotation in your rear axel assembly? Since you are close....
I can fab things up pretty well...not too much of a problem there. I think you are on the right track...I think I can use your set up...just elevate the forward mount....what ya think?
Rick

Jump This said:

As I see it.....a traction bar must run at the same angle as your drive shaft. Since yours starts near the rear center line but continues to just below your output shaft.....does that not create a rotation in your rear axel assembly? Since you are close....
I can fab things up pretty well...not too much of a problem there. I think you are on the right track...I think I can use your set up...just elevate the forward mount....what ya think?
Rick

Click to expand...

The wrap bar does not need to run parallel to the driveshaft. It just needs to move up and down with the axle and needs to be able to twist somewhat for when one tire is articulating down and the other is articulating up.

SeanP

hmmmmmmmm........... :wierd:
I need some more fabrication lubrication....
something is just not right......
numbers.......
gotta put together the numbers.....
Rick
:banghead:

SeanP said:

The wrap bar does not need to run parallel to the driveshaft. It just needs to move up and down with the axle and needs to be able to twist somewhat for when one tire is articulating down and the other is articulating up.

SeanP

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i second this idea...

back in the day...everybody who was anybody had a set of traction bars on their nova or camaro...remember... they were mounted under the springs with the ubolts and ran up to the front of the spring...and it was a cool place to put that moroso sticker



an anti-wrap bar, aka traction bar only needs to stop the rotation of the diff. housing or spring perches if it is a ladder bar or four link then the angles may come into play

You might want to try a simple way first. I dont know what shocks you are running but I only get wrap in deep sand while towing. I had it going up this dune so had to back down. I put the Rancho 9000's shocks from 3 to their hardest 5 and it went away completely and made it to the top!

Jump This said:

As I see it.....a traction bar must run at the same angle as your drive shaft. Since yours starts near the rear center line but continues to just below your output shaft.....does that not create a rotation in your rear axel assembly? Since you are close....
I can fab things up pretty well...not too much of a problem there. I think you are on the right track...I think I can use your set up...just elevate the forward mount....what ya think?
Rick

Click to expand...

Why do you think it needs to run at the same angle as the driveshaft? I see no correlation at all. Remember, the front of the traction bar hinges so the bar can move forward and backward. The driveline has splines so it can do the same thing. If I was going to be concerend with lining it up with something, it would be with the front half of the spring pack, but not at all with the driveline.

you said you have lift blocks, do you have the AAL/lift block combo kit from RE? i personally would say ditch the lift blocks and get shackles. it would be cheaper than the traction bars, and most likely solve your problem. good luck!!