There is no reason for tyre size to matter on a smog check (but the 8a$t4rd$ will find a way somehow...) but here are my thoughts...
1) Since there is no EGR, and you are failing on NOx, that indicates a slightly lean condition. Check MAP voltages against FSM spec to be sure - the MAP is a major player in setting fuel/air mix, and that is why an adjustable MAP can be a rewarding mod...
2) If MAP voltages are nominal (and we can assume that injector pulse width is nominal, unless you have a ScopeMeter in your pocket...) let us then go with the spark plugs. I know from experience that most platinum plugs run "hot" - I will typically get mine one range colder than catalogue specification to offset this. Therefore, AP3924 becomes AP3923, while a copper-core plug will remain 3924. The "heat range" of a plug is determined by the relative length of the ceramic nose that protrudes from the steel collar - you can tell the difference with a piece of wire if you are so inclined. The "colder" plugs will make contact between ceramic and steel closer to the electrode than the "hotter" plug.
Heat ranges in spark plugs are mainly set for purposes of self-cleaning - the plug retains enough heat to literally burn the crud off, if everything else is up to scratch. If the plug is retaining too much heat, it will have a similar effect to a lean mixture - specifically, slightly increased operating temperature and elevated NOx levels.
If you already have the adjustable MAP, this can also be mitigated rather quickly by turning it slightly to enrich your mixture. The ideal mix for the spark-combustion engine is actually slightly richer than purely stoichiometric, which will give a slight cooling effect to the combustion chamber overall (heat transfer/absorbtion in vapourising the slight extra fuel) and a reduction in NOx emissions - careful tuning will achieve this with minimal impact upon CO and HC emissions, but a five-gas exhaust analyser is still a device whose price must yet decrease to within reach of the hobbyist mechanic...
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