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ChuckD
April 22nd, 2004, 09:57
Other than the pictures on the ORGS site, anyone have a writeup or pictures of there's. I just want to know how much to cut off tomorrow.

My luck I'll have to cut it and take my own pictures. :banghead:

Any help would be appreciated. :D

YELLAHEEP
April 23rd, 2004, 01:58
Chuck,

I installed that bracket on my rig last August. What I did was to first cut away the old TB bracket and steering damper bracket. Then I sat the ORGS bracket in it's intended location and marked where it sat the best. Basically, when I cut mine, there ended up being about 1/2 inch of metal left in front of the coil spring. Every axle will be a bit different, so again, use the ORGS bracket as a gauge for where it's gonna sit, then mark and cut. Also, remember to give enough room between the bracket and the coil spring where the eliptical cut is. If you mount it too close, you may get some contact/binding when you compress the spring during flex.

I know what you mean about pics. As good as the pics are on the ORGS site, they're not much help for specific cut locations. I could take pics of my bracket and it probably wouldn't be any more help. That's the thing about fabbing right?

Remember the rule - measure twice, cut once and when in doubt, don't cut anymore than you need to - you can always cut more as you go.

Good luck! I know you'll love the improved flex that bracket gives!

John D
April 23rd, 2004, 05:00
QWat yellaheep said. I did mine last fall and it is pretty straight forward. Just take your time and it will come out right. A big C-clamp works really good for holding it on the axle while welding.

XJWheelie
April 23rd, 2004, 07:38
Stupid Question Time!

Why would you have to change the point where your track bar is mounted on the axle? Does this go along with raising the drag link or is it the result of an increase in lift? I'm at about 4" and my track bar has been changed to an adjustable unit, but I haven't moved the mount. If I did would what would change and would bumpsteer enter into the picture?

What would life be like without this forum! :wow:

Robert

ChuckD
April 23rd, 2004, 08:39
Stupid Question Time!

Why would you have to change the point where your track bar is mounted on the axle? Does this go along with raising the drag link or is it the result of an increase in lift? I'm at about 4" and my track bar has been changed to an adjustable unit, but I haven't moved the mount. If I did would what would change and would bumpsteer enter into the picture?

What would life be like without this forum! :wow:

Robert


I'm going to run inverted Y over the knuckle steering links. They're like Goatman's when he ran a D30.

http://fototime.com/ftweb/bin/ft.dll/standard?pictid={1CDE270D-8E96-45B8-9E31-26029429017A}&exp=f&moddt=37362.2425360185

SO I have to raise the TB mount so I can make my TB and DL parallel. I'm at about 6.5" of lift, so my OEM links are just not cutting it. This looks to me to be the best solution to get better angles and raise the TB away from damage. At least for a TURDY! :D

YELLAHEEP
April 23rd, 2004, 09:04
Stupid Question Time!

Why would you have to change the point where your track bar is mounted on the axle? Does this go along with raising the drag link or is it the result of an increase in lift? I'm at about 4" and my track bar has been changed to an adjustable unit, but I haven't moved the mount. If I did would what would change and would bumpsteer enter into the picture?

What would life be like without this forum! :wow:

Robert

Nah, not a stupid question! Basically, there are a couple of reasons to raise the track bar. First one already mentioned is to get the steering geometry back in sync when lifting the rig - usually associated with lifts over 6". Secondly, when lifting an XJ over 6", the lower the track bar is away from the frame mount, the more it binds and limits the down travel of the passenger side of the axle. By moving the track bar up on top of the axle, you restore it's travel span and eliminate the bind.

Picture it this way: On a stock XJ, looking at the track bar position, you'll see that the track bar is nearly horizontal to the axle. When you drop the axle by moving the body up and away from it, the track bar extends down in a slight arc. You'll actually see the axle move to the driver's side just a bit when it's at it's maximum drop. Well, that maximum drop is now what you've just done by adding a lift kit. So, the manufacturers of lifts have designed longer and adjustible track bars to compensate for this, but they can only do so much when the factory mounting locations don't change with the lift in relation to the geometry of the axle's new location. With your lift at 4", you won't need to do these modifications - actually you shouldn't do them - until you get "inchitis" and go bigger! :)

This is why it's a good idea to purchase a heavy duty track bar bracket like Rubicon Express sells. It lowers the body mount position for the track bar and gives it a strong mounting place. When this bracket is installed, it reduces the track bar angle again - closer to stock. When you go over 6" of lift, you're again dropping that track bar. So, the ORGS Over Axle Bracket helps bring that track bar angle back up - closer to stock.

Now, doing this kind of modification will usually bring with it another can of worms. Your stock steering configuration is way maxed out now. Usually, this is fixed by buying or making a "cross over" steering setup. There's a few different designs that work well - like Goatman's pictured in this thread, or the one Mark Hinkley designed that is in the same pics on ORGS where the install of the Over Axle Bracket is found. Another is the one made by Phatjeeps.com. It's called the "Canyon Crawler Cross Over steering system" and I just bought that yesterday.

Hope this helps! :guitar:
Troy

xman
April 23rd, 2004, 10:09
Installed a ORGS Tack Bar last month, the only problem I encountered was that my Over the Knuckle steering tie rod hits the ORGS when I turn sharp left. I welded the bracket as close as possible to the coil spring and still have enough clearance for the springs.

Good Luck

Xman

ChuckD
April 23rd, 2004, 12:03
Any of you guys do this on a Disco axle?, I have most of it cut away and hopefully it will be welded tomorrow.

I'm having a bit of interference with the shift motor housing, I figure I can cut a slit and bend it so that some if it will ride on the tube and some on the housing.


What do you guys think?

XJJPR
April 23rd, 2004, 12:29
Any of you guys do this on a Disco axle?, I have most of it cut away and hopefully it will be welded tomorrow.

I'm having a bit of interference with the shift motor housing, I figure I can cut a slit and bend it so that some if it will ride on the tube and some on the housing.


What do you guys think?

I would look at adding some bracing onto the housing, from the OAB, so the weld has more to grab to, on the housing that is.

mark

XJJPR
April 23rd, 2004, 12:30
Installed a ORGS Tack Bar last month, the only problem I encountered was that my Over the Knuckle steering tie rod hits the ORGS when I turn sharp left. I welded the bracket as close as possible to the coil spring and still have enough clearance for the springs.

Good Luck

Xman

Can you put a slight bend in the rod or TRE to gain a little clearance? This is why I used the WJ TREs they have a nice bend in them.

mark

ChuckD
April 23rd, 2004, 13:22
I would look at adding some bracing onto the housing, from the OAB, so the weld has more to grab to, on the housing that is.

mark

Well I hope FarmerMatt can figure it out. :D

I see what you mean, I think it will be pretty easy to do.

XJJPR
April 23rd, 2004, 13:43
Well I hope FarmerMatt can figure it out. :D




Farmerboy?????????????

You're not letting HIM touch your junk, are you????

hinkley

xman
April 23rd, 2004, 13:45
Can you put a slight bend in the rod or TRE to gain a little clearance? This is why I used the WJ TREs they have a nice bend in them.

mark
Hi Mark,
:wave:
I did bend both ends on the tie rod and it clears fine but, now the tie rod rotates up and down since I have hiems, I believe I have to much bend. Iím going to make a new tie rod this week end with only one bend on the passenger side hopefully that will help my clearance and stop the tie rod from rotation.

Dean

ChuckD
April 23rd, 2004, 13:45
http://home.comcast.net/~cdutke/pic.jpg

How about adding a gusset right where my welding magnet is?

XJJPR
April 23rd, 2004, 14:26
How about adding a gusset right where my welding magnet is?


Chuck,

Anything will help.

mark

Neil
April 23rd, 2004, 16:36
Chuck,

Anything will help.

mark

YEA!