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Spring Bushing Question

Spudboy

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Idaho
I have searched the forums and haven't quite got an answer to this. If I missed something in my search, please direct me to the thread. I have a '91 that has sagged some in the back, and the flair will rub against the tire if I have 3 adults in the back seat - so I have concluded that my springs are done. (Tire is a LT 235-75 mounted on AR 767 with 4.5" BS) I use this Jeep as a daily driver in town with fishing/camping trips throughout the year, always on roads (some of them just barely fit that definition). I don't do rocks or mud.

I have obtained some low mile stock springs that have no bushings in them. I can get OEM rubber bushings (front and both shackle) for about $65. Or I can get poly for about half that. What I need is advice on which way to go to best fit my type of driving. What do you guys think?

Thanks for the help
 
Where are you finding rubber for less? That is what I got from the dealer and one aftermarket spring shop - they were within three dollars of each other. Is there an online source with better prices?

Thanks

Spudboy
 
Those prices are about right for OEM bushings. They are a 3-piece sandwich, with an inner sleeve, rubber bushing, and outer steel sleeve all bonded together. Not cheap.

Poly will ride a bit harsher because it's not as soft as the rubber. I have no idea how long the poly bushings last. I'd guess not as long as stock, because I don't think they have the dual steel sleeves.

Related question: How are your rear bumpstops? Part of the tire rubbing the flare is because those wheels have less backspacing than OEM, but part may also be due to your bumpstops having disappeared due to age and rust. If they're gone, you can get taller ones that might slolve the problem.

Another approach would be to disassemble the used springs you have, cut the eyes off the main leaves, and use the modified main leaves as add-a-leaves. This will raise the back of the vehicle about 1-1/2 inches from wherever it sits now, plus increase the spring rate so it won't squat down as far when loaded. No, it won't ride harsh. I did this on an '88 last year and drove it across the country. Ride was firmer than stock but very comfortable.
 
Interesting idea on cutting the second set of springs. Would I then need a spacer to bring the front up to level? Might have to investigate that further although I'm not really interested in a lift, but that is pretty mild. I've read about cutting springs before and have a question - after cutting, do you just go after the ends with a grinder to clean them up? I'm assuming you use a torch to do the cutting.

The bumpstops look okay. We don't get a lot of rust here as the winters are fairly mild, but they have started using magnesium choride on the intersections the last few years. I've heard that will cause corrosion, but slower than sodium chloride.

I'll keep at this. Hopefully get some time this weekend to do something.

Thanks again
Spudboy
 
Spudboy said:
Interesting idea on cutting the second set of springs. Would I then need a spacer to bring the front up to level? Might have to investigate that further although I'm not really interested in a lift, but that is pretty mild. I've read about cutting springs before and have a question - after cutting, do you just go after the ends with a grinder to clean them up? I'm assuming you use a torch to do the cutting.

The bumpstops look okay. We don't get a lot of rust here as the winters are fairly mild, but they have started using magnesium choride on the intersections the last few years. I've heard that will cause corrosion, but slower than sodium chloride.

I'll keep at this. Hopefully get some time this weekend to do something.

Thanks again
Spudboy

If your rear springs have sagged, you may not even need a spacer in the front. I did the home-brew AAL on an '88 Laredo last year and the final result was about 3/4" higher than "stock" becuse it started out about half an inch lower than normal. I didn't have time to throw in the 3/4" spacer in front. It didn't look bad or out of proportion at all.

No, you don't cut them with a torch. The heat will take the temper out of the steel. I've done it with a hacksaw, and I've done it with a grinder and cutoff wheel.
 
Ahh, I would have got myself in trouble on that one. Thanks. Once I see how hard it is to get the bolts out, I may opt for this way.

Spudboy
 
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