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BLUTO
April 19th, 2004, 20:10
I just finished reading some threads about DW by doing a search. I probably don't have DW, but need to clarify. My 2000XJ has 3" med-duty OME lift with firm shocks and steering stabilizer, 31 x 10.5 tires on TJ Canyon rims, TW SYE and DS, stock tracbar, stock LCA's and UCA's....all other front & rr suspension components are stock.
The only time I get a "wobble" is when I hit some RR tracks or a bump in the road. Speed doesn't seem to affect or cause the "wobble". Recently had front end alignment, ball joints good, shocks good, U-joints good, steering box good.
Wobble never happened to me until I lifted vehicle (I even ran my 31"s unlifted for a while before installing lift kit). I also added spacers behind LCA's rear mount to keep caster in place (gojeep's write-up).
Does anyone have any input?
I'm thinking adjustable HD trackbar and adjustable LCA's, but don't want to throw money at a problem"....would rather work from someone else's experience ;)
Thanks,

BLUTO :wave1:

Eagle
April 19th, 2004, 21:31
Did you have it aligned?

What are the alignment specs?

MaXJohnson
April 19th, 2004, 21:40
This Thread Sucks without SPECS!

BLUTO
April 19th, 2004, 22:04
Yes, I had it aligned (toe-in and castor) I told them to align to factory specs. My rig has 242 TC, so the specs are slightly different (because of possibility of FULL TIME 4WD operation). I believe 0* toe-in. I told the shop to change the castor (rotate the axle to compensate for 3" lift) back to factory specs (whatever that be). I also gave them some metal shims that I fabbed to place in the LCA to keep it from moving back out of castor (see GoJeep's alignment write-up).
What other specs do you need? 2000XJ, 4.0L, AW4, 242, 8.8" with discs + 4.10's + posi, TW SYE, ProComp 31 x 10.5 x 15" AT's on TJ Canyons, Manik front brush bar + Rusty's front receiver (had wobble before the added weight of this combo). I don't have camber measurement....I don't think that is adjustable? right?
Let me know what else I'm missing in the SPECS.

BLUTO

Eagle
April 19th, 2004, 22:37
We need to see the after-the-fact print-out of what they set it to, not what you told them to set it to. Alignment of a lifted solid axle vehicle is a compromise at best, unless you rotate the axle tubes in the diff housing to correct the pinion angle, so many shops screw it up without understanding what's happening.

I'll bet they couldn't figure out what those neat little shims were for or where they went, so they tossed them in the trash.

MaXJohnson
April 19th, 2004, 22:43
Personally, I wouldn't take my Jeep to a shop that didn't provide a printout with the before and after alignment specs. They may not even know where the shims go, thinking that your Jeep is missing the cam bolts they've seen on so many TJ's or maybe they think three degrees of castor is ok because they set cars in that range all day long.

toe = ???
castor = ???
camber = ???
SAI = ???
thrust angle = ???

(Not what specs you asked them to use, but what did they actually do.)

In any case, I'd make sure your castor was at least 5 1/2 degrees and double check the steering stabilizer and steering joints. Try playing with tire air pressure as well. What condition are your control arm bushing in? Have they been replaced with poly?

BLUTO
April 20th, 2004, 07:37
The shims are in ;) , I told them No Shims - No Pay! This I did from experience. I don't have a readout, they told me to bring it back if I have a problem. The alignment was done in late December and then I took the Jeep out of commision for about 3 mos while I did some mods to it. So I want to get some input before taking it back for "re-alignment"
The vehicle is tight up front....new OME steering stabilizer. No POLY in control arm - yet. I haven't offroaded my rig - yet.....unless you want to call running thru some fields for 15 min. offroading :o . The vehicle only has 45Kmiles on it and I bought it last year at 36Kmiles from a "proper" lady who NEVER had it offroad. I do live off of 3 miles of dirt road and will recheck ball joints and steering while installing my t-stat today. I have my other truck in there for work, so I will bring this up to them when I pick it up.

BLUTO

Danno
April 20th, 2004, 07:57
I have a 2000 with only 31k miles on it and have also been fighting the DW. I am at a higher lift BUT after doing all kinds of things I replaced the track bar with a ORGS disgned one from JKS Mfg. and that seemed to make a real difference. The thing that I noticed was that the bolt hole for the track bar on the axle was "wallered" out. This in spite of constantly trying to keep it tight. I also replaced the stock bolt with a bigger diameter so that it fit the JKS TB mount tighter. Then I placed a grade 8 washer on the mount and tack welded it down to take care of the wallowed out spot. It rides really well now. It worked so well I'm going to do that same thing to my daughter's 2001 prophylactally to head off future problems as she is moving out to Colorado this summer.
I think that non stock rims with a smaller backspacing that sets the rim out more also contributes to the problem as it sets the "lever arm" motion out further.
I'd REALLY check the TB and the bolt hole and maybe replace the bolt with a slightly larger diameter and make everything really tight. It doesn't take much slack to magnify the wobble. With that short of a lift it must be something a little loose.
The alignment is the first priority of course and then the stuff I outlined. HTH, Danno