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Sleeving the frame rails

xj92

xj92

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Junction City, KS
I'm finally getting around to sleeving the frame rails and just want to discuss the details as I do it.
-I picked up the 4x6x.25 rectangular tubing yesterday. I found a guy to sell me a 10-foot section instead of a 20-foot like most people want to sell, which is good since you only need 5 feet.
-I had them cut it into two 60-inch lengths with their plasma cutter, but they wouldn't split it down the middle, they said it would open up and bend back on both ends once it was split?
-I got it home and split one of the 5-foot sections down the middle using a combination of an angle grinder with cutoff wheels and a reciprocating saw. HF has cheap cutoff wheels (10 for $3). Went through 9 of those wheels and one good sawzall blade to split it open.
-I drilled pilot holes for where I think I want the rosette welds to end up.
-Started, but haven't finished, using the hole saw to drill the holes for the rosettes. I went with a 7/8" hole, which should be big enough to get a really good weld and won't remove too much metal. I'm planning on 4 holes on one side and 5 on the other, and maybe 3 on the bottom of each piece, along with the holes to bolt on the crossmember through it. The holes are staggered.
-I'm debating what to do with the front section that widens. Has anybody just beat it back and hammered the box tubing up and over it or just cut it off? I've read of people modifying their sleeve to accomodate it, but it seems to me you'd lose as much structure on your sleeve then as you yould gain by leaving that wider section of the frame as is. Comments? Suggestions?
 
I was thinking the same thing about the front part of the frame. I was thinking that if you cut if off and welded the cap on it shouldn't loose any strength and i would rather cut fold off then work around it.
 
I made mine bolt on and split the front portion of my rail, added a sliver, and welded it back together. The rail is bolted on through sleeves welded into the frame. One set of sleeves is used for a through bolt that also goes through the front of the leaf spring. I did use a longer leaf though...Dodge 1500, so I moved the forward mount forward. The rail runs up to the stock lower control arm mount.

This should be a link to a photo album of these mods:

http://photomail.photoworks.com/sharing/album.asp?Key=1~FQQ4aBru.cIXXT7ngSTHK8o2xtFeRtID
 
I've looked at your album quite a few times in the past, and a lot in the past week. I'm leaning towards just keeping the channel as-is and cutting the wider part off of the frame instead, but not sure at this point. The rear leaf-spring hangers will be left in place. I'll cut the channel so it stops in front of the hanger at that point but continues under and on the other side of the frame rail. I'll also plate the hanger a little to strengthen it and tie it into the channel and the floor better. The front LCA mounts will be left on for now but will come off eventually when I fab up some mid-length LCA's.
 
xj92 said:
I'm finally getting around to sleeving the frame rails and just want to discuss the details as I do it.
-I picked up the 4x6x.25 rectangular tubing yesterday. I found a guy to sell me a 10-foot section instead of a 20-foot like most people want to sell, which is good since you only need 5 feet.
-I had them cut it into two 60-inch lengths with their plasma cutter, but they wouldn't split it down the middle, they said it would open up and bend back on both ends once it was split?
-I got it home and split one of the 5-foot sections down the middle using a combination of an angle grinder with cutoff wheels and a reciprocating saw. HF has cheap cutoff wheels (10 for $3). Went through 9 of those wheels and one good sawzall blade to split it open.
-I drilled pilot holes for where I think I want the rosette welds to end up.
-Started, but haven't finished, using the hole saw to drill the holes for the rosettes. I went with a 7/8" hole, which should be big enough to get a really good weld and won't remove too much metal. I'm planning on 4 holes on one side and 5 on the other, and maybe 3 on the bottom of each piece, along with the holes to bolt on the crossmember through it. The holes are staggered.
-I'm debating what to do with the front section that widens. Has anybody just beat it back and hammered the box tubing up and over it or just cut it off? I've read of people modifying their sleeve to accomodate it, but it seems to me you'd lose as much structure on your sleeve then as you yould gain by leaving that wider section of the frame as is. Comments? Suggestions?
Click to expand...

Sounds like you're on the right track. I cut the seam (at the front of the "frame" rail) on one side to try to make the channel fit (I used the same box tubing cut into channels) and it was a major PITA! Never could get it to fit. Ended up getting some 3x3 angle and putting that on both sides at that spot to cover it. On the other side, I left the pinch seam and just put one side of angle on. Cutting the seam wasn't worth it at all!
The other thing I wanted to mention is that you will have to cut the channel into 3 (or more) sections for each side. I tried to put one big 5 foot section in place and it was not possible... just section it and make life easier on yourself.
Good luck,
Billy
 
I was planning on cutting where I needed to on the sides for the bends, but leaving the bottom intact and just bending it where it needed to go. Either way I know what you mean and will bend it or cut it into sections and then just weld it up.
 
I took your advice and did sections. I did two sections, one front and one back. The front section includes side cuts where I bent it up to follow the frame rail and it will all be welded together when I'm done. I only have a few hours a week to work on it right now so it's going slow. I burned up my old 3-amp corded drill doing the 7/8" holes. I then used a new Ryobi cordless for several, but the batteries died fairly quickly and when I used the 2nd gear to make it go faster, it smoked the motor on that too. Thank goodness for warranties. Just debating what to get now as far as the drill goes. I'll post more as I do it. Some pictures of it right now are here in the XJ Frame album:
http://community.webshots.com/user/xj92

Note: In some of the pictures I'm still test-fitting so they're not shoved up all the way on the rails yet, and I drilled more holes for plug welds along the sides too.
 
I am working on mine, got the pieces cutout at least. I used the bandsaw to make the cuts for length, then the torch to split them down the middle. Only used about a 3ft section of tube, the rest is 4x1/4" angle iron going on where the pinch seam starts. Will need to take an inch of one side of it, but the 4" covers the wider part f the frame nicely up front.

If I were to go over again I think I would have just used angle for the whole thing since it is so much cheaper.
 
I just did mine with 3x3x3/16 angle. I thought about using the box, but with all the bends and different thicknesses of the frame, I decided against it.

The entire framerails from front to back got the angle iron, except for the front which will have 3/16 plate on the outside for the steering box reinforcement.

It wasn't that bad, but I cheated a little by flipping my jeep on it's side. It made it a helluva lot easier to do the welding :roll:

Here's a pic:
frame__rocker.jpg


Here's a link to my 88 XJ page on my website for some more pics of the buildup: http://members.cox.net/4x4xfun1/88_xj.htm

Rick
 
Rick,

You're letting that bonehead work on your junk? :rolleyes: (the one with the hammer)

gears.jpg


BTW, lets see a close up of the welds. :D

hinkley
 
Hey, I never said my booty fab was pretty, just functional. That includes my welds.

Now, Joe's welds are a whole different story. They look like booger coated popcorn.

BTW, I leave the area when Joe sets my gears. It's much too painful to watch.

Rick
 
Mark Hinkley said:
Rockers a little long?????


rocker1.jpg


hinkley
Click to expand...

Whats wrong with that?? I thought they were just right........

Man, go out get a job and quit yer web wheelin' ;)

Rick
 
Rick, your project is really coming along. Looks good! :cheers:


This summer I am thinking of just using some angle iron on the bottom part of the frame, partly for strength, and partly because I have scraped the hell out of my frame rails. :laugh2:
 
What are you guys setting your welder on when welding the angle iron onto the sheet metal frame?
It seems the frame is a bit thin if one were to use anyting else but a MIG.
 
Dazz said:
What are you guys setting your welder on when welding the angle iron onto the sheet metal frame?
It seems the frame is a bit thin if one were to use anyting else but a MIG.
Click to expand...

Gotta direct your heat to the thicker metal. I don 't know exact amps to tell ya.... I think position 3 on my handler175 burns it in good with .035 wire. Some places I gotta step down to setting 2 though. Have to be VERY carefull on the higher one, point it a the frame to long and you have a nice big hole to fill.
 
I have the 90-amp harbor freight welder and I put it on high and run .035" flux-core. I burned through once when I left it pointed at the frame too long, but if I focus it more on the channel I can get a good puddle and good penetration on each side.
 
I'm using a Lincoln 135, .025 wire, and argon mix gas. Welding the angle iron on, I use the hottest setting (gas welding doesn't burn as hot as flux core) and direct the tip mostly towards the thicker material, then let the weld puddle kinda flow into the thinner material. You definetely have to be careful.

Rick
 
Hey Rick, while you have the gas tank out you should go ahead and plate that section as well. I've seen several chassis that have buckled back there.

Jes
 
Jes said:
Hey Rick, while you have the gas tank out you should go ahead and plate that section as well. I've seen several chassis that have buckled back there.

Jes
Click to expand...
Are you talking about the rear crossmember, between the framerails?
 
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