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Restore oil additive

M

MassbayXJ

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Massachusetts
All right, I am not a spokesperson for this product, but I am rather pleased with it . . .so far. I had used it before on older fords and toyotas . We race the Toyota, he he he he . At about 120,000 miles, my 94 cherokee 4.0 started making a clack clack clack noise at idle. I asked around and was told it could be: A) loose converter bolts B) piston slap or C) a stuck lifter. This aweful noise really irritated me becase I spent $3,300 on this vehicle and it sounded worse than all of my friends old fords. I really do not want to put any time and money into a sub 300 cubic inch motor anyway (internally). Well I just changed the oil today with some Mobil 1 10-30 and a can of restore and I almost forgot the Heep was running because the motor was so quiet. All I could hear was the injectors and my manifold crack leak. I don't feel any added power yet but I do have 31's with a crap automatic and 3.55 gears. Well anybody else try this?? I hope now I can get another 100 k out of this inline. My buddies keep trying to sell me chevy small blocks. . . .
 
Restore is good stuff. Ive used it in all my vehicles for years and never had any problems or engine failures. One was a Toyota p/u with over 250,000 miles on it and it was still running strong when I sold it. My XJ has rod know and it deffinitly has gotten better after a couple oil changes and a couple cans of Restore. I generally use the 8 cylinder can for a 6 and a 6 for a 4 when I use the stuff too. Good stuff for sure.
 
Ha , and my service manager at my Chevy dealer thinks Im wasting all my time and money on this thing. he he everyone's gonna think I put new pistons in.
 
hmmmmm. I only added the six cyl. can to six quarts of Mobil one and the clack seems to have returned. Maybe next time I'll use the 8 cyl. can. Well, there are no miracles in a can. Damn service manager.
 
Do you have to do it at each oil change? I changed mine 1000 miles ago, can I add it now? I have a clack at idle also as well as an injector leak, and I want to quiet it down a bit.
 
I got a miracle additive called 'westiemix', $10 for a 4oz can and $20 S&H, need about a weeks notice so I can do a production run, takes about that long to get the 4oz collected :D
 
rule #1: older, high mileage XJs have noises- its a built in thing.
rule #2: live with the clack. If its a stuck lifter, it`ll usually pass.
rule #3: if it aint broke.....

engine restore does great things. Ive used it for years-but have recently stopped. I found that the particles eventually clog up the oil pressure sending unit, and got tired of replaceing it. I now use Lucas oil, and 20/50. At 200,000+, I still hold 60psi at idle- and thats the kicker-if the pressure even starts to drop, I know its time to change out the oil....I like that. For all the nay sayers on lucas oil stuff- ask my jeep, it still runs. The oil dont foam like they said it would, the injector cleaner cleans better than anything Ive found yet, and the diff juice is some sticky stuff from hell!

Ive had 2 stuck lifters over the years in 2 different vehicles. The first one, my XJ, I tried every snake oil possible- top end juice from the dealer, marvel oil, light weight stuff, etc....the only thing that cured it was time and use- one day it just stopped. On the MJ I have now, I heard it start at 120,000-went away around 170,000 with no interference from me.
 
I went to the junkyard on Sunday and it was an inspiration to see a Cherokee Chief with 300,176 miles on what looked like the original renix motor. I got over 180k out of my Bronco's 5.0 (ugh) and my Corolla is still a baby at 120k. I'd love to get 300k out of my Cherokees H.O. Mobil 1 in the Engine and Trickshift/Lucas in the AW4. Its good for me as a mechanic, but aweful to see certain brands of automakers engines and trannies failing at under 40k miles. half the time it is neglect, but they are just not made to last anymore.
PS- just pulled the 250 c.i. straight six out of my buddies 1970 Tempest. It was a reliable engine but the BB Pontiac will just be swell.
 
I had 195k on my XJ's V6. Problems were low Oil PSI, piston slap when engine was warmed, and valve clatter at 3k rpms. I Tried Restore 6cyl, Ring Seal, Marvel Mystery Oil, Lucas oil stabilizer, Valve Kleen and Sea Foam. None worked to stop the noise, Except the Sea Foam. Restore did make a small improvement for a short time but it has small metal particles that cloged up my oil pressure sender. I went to Napa and got some additive called " SeaFoam " and put almost all of it in my oil and some in the gas. After driving for a short while the Valve Clatter was gone all of a sudden. I was suprized it worked after all the other products failed to. I recommend "Sea Foam" from Napa to anyone who has a noisy engine.

heres also some interesting info: http://www.canadiandriver.com/articles/jk/020320.htm


Hope it helps you. :cheers:

Matt
 
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I've used it in my 90 jetta a few times and it seems to help it a quite a bit, brought the oil pressure up to tolerable levels (before on hot days using 10w30 oil the oil pressure light would come on after running it hard).

havent used it on the heep yet, i think it has a rebuilt motor, 2.8 v6 with 330,000km's (188,000miles) and still 60lbs oil press at idle
 
I'd love to get 300k out of my Cherokees H.O. Mobil 1 in the Engine and Trickshift/Lucas in the AW4. Its good for me as a mechanic, but aweful to see certain brands of automakers engines and trannies failing at under 40k miles.
Click to expand...

Massbay ...

Kinda off subject. I thought Trickshift was B&M's brand tranny fluid ... or is it really made by Lucas ?

How does it work in your AW4 ? What's the effect ?


Thanks
 
I use Trickshift, yeah, thats B+M. My buddy started to use it in his C-6 behind a 429 so i thought I'd try it. Well , I use that and The Lucas tranny stuff and my XJ pulls strong off the line until the tranny gets too hot(stop and go). Im going to add an external cooler soon. Oh, my aw4 is not full B+M trickshift yet although B+M reccomends it for even better shifting. there is probably 4 qts. mixed with my castrol +3 fluid. Im going to drop the pan and change the filter, fluid (B+M) and add the lucas again. After doing some doughnuts in the snow 2 months ago, I could barely even move from a stop. Next day i used the Lucas and B+M. now It is fine. theres a testimonial.
 
My AW4 is doing the same thing. After about 20 minutes in traffic, it seems to stick in 3rd gear and slips when trying to move from a stop. Manually shifting it into the 1/2 position then back into D does the trick until the next stop. Then the process is repeated all over again. I am still trying to descide if it is the AW4 itself or the oil cooler. And by the way, that mechanical fan, at idle it moves less air than the OEM aux fan. I am going to change the radiator and se if that helps.
 
If that mechanical fan is moving less air at idle than the aux electric fan at idle your fan clutch on the mechanical fan is bad.....
 
Thanks RichP but I have the mechanical fan on a solid hub a long time ago. The clutch leaked the oil out at the most in-opportune time so I drilled it and put screws in it. However, the XJ had cooling system problem at idle then and now. I reciently flushed the system and put in a larger radiator (one the is of a larger capacity) and even so the only difference is that it takes a bit longer to get to that point.
 
My clutch fan moves less air than the auxilary fan too. I went to Carquest and bought a new clutch when I installed the new radiator last fall. Maybe I got a bad one. When I idle in traffic it starts to get a little warm so I kick on the a/c and it cools to 210 and stays at 210 all day long. :dunno:
 
bump from the past

just got a 97 with about 160k on it - going to go synthetic oil but anyone else trust or use restore with a higher millage XJ?
 
You will see the most advantage on a higher mileage XJ. Little to none on a low mile XJ.

I would put it in there in a heart beat. You can never be sure how a truck was treated unless you buy one new.
 
that is what I was thinking - just changed oil yesterday after seafoaming and it seems to accelerate with less lag - restore added to castrol syntec 10w30... on to new plugs and wires

oh and I guess this is just the 97 but the oil pressure sender is close to the oil filter which is different than my 99 - well did not see it and cracked it where it goes into block sender - anyone know if i need to remove block sender? there is a plastic ring still in the "threads"... uggghh
 
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