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clayton x memeber and RE long arms

jeepme

NAXJA Forum User
NAXJA Member
well I am finaly back from NY and finished my clayton RE tj long arm project. It works perfectly, the only snag I ran into was my long arms where not the 36" that everyone seemed to think at there shortest legnth. Mine where 37 3/8" at their shortest legnth. After noticing that they bottomed out with still some room to adjust I cut the solid threaded end of the long arm and also cut about a 1/2" off of the screw on flex jiont end and was able to get the 36 1/2" that clayton recomends. All in all they work great, flex is amazing, and the ride is...........well ya know stock. If I could figure out how to post pics I will. Doing this set up I saved myself a couple hundred bucks. The x member was $250 and I allready had the adj. RE uppers and the long arms I got for $225. Not to bad for $475 when the clayton kit is $750 :thumbup: . I know I could have made them for a lot cheaper but I dont have those skills.....YET :roll:
 
ok ok If I could figure out how to post a pic I will.
 
OK so I tried to put some pics up but no luck ( I suck at this stuff so sorry) any help would be GREAT!!!!
 
So, no pics yet....you damn computer noobies suck. :shhh:

Feel free to email them to me and I'll post them.....
[email protected]

BTW, I think this is a great idea and great way to save money. I like clayton's cross member.
 
I should have pics of my setup by the end of the week if all my parts come in. The arms, x-member and axle are under the truck, but I'm missing spindles and caliper stands to finish putting the axle together. I'll post up when I've got it significantly complete so you can see what's up. I do know that I ended up pushing the axle forward about an inch to an inch and a half and that in order to avoid that you'll need to cut a little out of the adjustable portion of the RE arms. HTH

Ary
 
Here's the pics:
IMG_0015.jpg

IMG_0016.jpg

IMG_0018.jpg

IMG_0024.jpg

IMG_0026.jpg

IMG_0025.jpg

Billy
 
Thanks Billy for posting them.
 
Do you guys just hate square tube, which at .25 wall in Clayton's kit is going to be awfully hard to bend, so much that you have to buy another companies arms, which perform the exact same function, and then modify them to fit?

I understand the original poster saved money, but what are the rest of you getting out of this? RE's arms are that much cheaper to justify the extra effort?

Seems to me that if you are going to the pain of modifying a setup you could avoid Clayton's crossmember and it's obvious cost to clearance. I run Clayton's kit, and as with any bolt-under-the-frame long arm kit, you'd better hope the arms are strong as hell because you're going to test them.

Nay
 
XJZ said:
Looks great Jeff!! Who did your welding?

A guy out in Livermore that I hooked up with from the Jeep night people.
 
Nay said:
Do you guys just hate square tube, which at .25 wall in Clayton's kit is going to be awfully hard to bend, so much that you have to buy another companies arms, which perform the exact same function, and then modify them to fit?

I understand the original poster saved money, but what are the rest of you getting out of this? RE's arms are that much cheaper to justify the extra effort?

Seems to me that if you are going to the pain of modifying a setup you could avoid Clayton's crossmember and it's obvious cost to clearance. I run Clayton's kit, and as with any bolt-under-the-frame long arm kit, you'd better hope the arms are strong as hell because you're going to test them.

Nay
agreed.

this guy saved money, but if it came down to the same cost, or more to have the RE arms, I would say forget it. Square tube is actually stronger in this sort of application. Round is stronger for the weight in tension/compression, but for this both are well beyond the needed strength in that area. Where beef is needed for longarms is resistance to bending by landing them on a rock, square tube is more resistant to bending when the impact is coming at a predictable angle (from the bottom).
 
I agree on the strength issue but that is not why I started this post. This is a post for the budget minded person that wanted a tryed and true long arm set up. As far as strength they have survived the Rubicon and Fordyce with no problems and I think RE makes a one of the best products out there. As far as cutting them down it took 20 minutes with my chop saw.
 
If its about cost then build them yourself.Although my crossmember is mild steel everything else including the 1-1/4" allthread is Chromoly!Total cost including RE joints and new bushings was $220!
 
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