Mark U joints before taking them apart?

Bronco · Apr 3, 2004

I changed out my Peugeot tranny for and AX15 with the T-case from a TJ and now I’m getting vibes. I haven’t got the ft driveline on yet so that’s not it. Dose the AX15 sit higher that the Peugeot. I am wondering if that could have changed my driveline angle enough to give me the vibes??? I’ve also seen folks mark the U joints before they take them apart and I didn’t do that. Could putting them back differently cause things to change? Can anyone explain that?:rtm:

I never had Vibes before so I don’t have a SYE. The vibes kinda come and go at different speeds but I don’t have the speedo hooked up yet so I don’t know what speeds. When I hit the brakes it is really bad and the harder I push the brakes the worse it gets. As I slow down it almost gets to be a cluck cluck clunk :shiver: rather than a vibration.

Yucca-Man · Apr 3, 2004

TJ has the same t-case as the 96+ XJ, and I think you'll find about a bajillion posts in here that recommend an SYE when you're that tall with the later t-case.

Eagle · Apr 3, 2004

You have an '87 XJ with a TJ tranny and transfer case, and a 4.5" lift?

What are you running for a driveshaft? Have you checked to see how much of the slip yoke is actually engaging the output shaft of the transfer case? That might explain the clunks under braking -- the harder you brake, the farther the differential and axle rotate on the springs, which in turn pulls the slip yoke farther out on the output shaft.

5-90 · Apr 3, 2004

Any rotating assembly should be matchmarked before being separated. Even assuming everything is perfectly balances and good to go, it is always a good thing to do.

I think the AX15 is a direct swap for the BA10, so I'd start with the idea of checking driveline alignments - you've just got to reverse it and see if that does the job. The slip yoke and main driveline alignment should be fine, unless you changed the joint...

5-90

ChuckD · Apr 3, 2004

Bronco said:
I changed out my Peugeot tranny for and AX15 with the T-case from a TJ and now I’m getting vibes. I haven’t got the ft driveline on yet so that’s not it. Dose the AX15 sit higher that the Peugeot. I am wondering if that could have changed my driveline angle enough to give me the vibes??? I’ve also seen folks mark the U joints before they take them apart and I didn’t do that. Could putting them back differently cause things to change? Can anyone explain that?:rtm:

I never had Vibes before so I don’t have a SYE. The vibes kinda come and go at different speeds but I don’t have the speedo hooked up yet so I don’t know what speeds. When I hit the brakes it is really bad and the harder I push the brakes the worse it gets. As I slow down it almost gets to be a cluck cluck clunk :shiver: rather than a vibration.

You are about set up like I was. I had the OEM drive shaft, YJ or extended yoke, 1" drop, ext shackles,4.5" springs and the D44. I had zero vibes. If you get this combo you do not need an SYE. If that is a TJ T-case then you don't have to worry about loosing any fluid.

I should have an extended slip yoke and driveshaft soon. Let me know if you want it for $50. PM Me,

Bronco · Apr 3, 2004

“Any rotating assembly should be matchmarked before being separated. Even assuming everything is perfectly balances and good to go, it is always a good thing to do.”

Why is that? I’ve heard that before but it dose not make sense to me yet. Its not like the joint at the axel can be part of the assembly that gets balanced right? It doesn’t get put on till you hook it to the axel. Or do they pull the pinion yoke and balance that two?

I’m using the stock DS. I’ve got tons of engagement on the slip yoke. If anything it’s to much. I was considering cutting a bit off the drive shaft part of the yoke to make sure it wont hit the back of the Tcase under suspension compression. Right now the male part on the shaft is as long as the female part on the Tcase and under static load there is only about ¾ or 1 inch of spline showing. I would think under braking the yoke would separate if anything. Is there any way to tell if a joint is binding at some point in the cycle by looking at it.

“I had the OEM drive shaft, YJ or extended yoke, 1" drop, ext shackles,4.5" springs and the D44.”

That’s just like me but I don’t have the drop kit. I may want the DS I’ll call ya.

I think I’m going to try hooking up the ft DS tomorrow and taking the BK one off again just to see what happens. Thanks for the help.

Bronco · Apr 4, 2004

Well it turned out not to be a mystery at all, a guess the new tranny just sits up higher than the old one and that was just enough to exceed the angle the Drive Shaft could handle. I got under there today and pulled the Rear DS and it had clear evidence that it had been hitting its self. I put the FT DS on and took the bk one off and the problem was gone. Course now I have some serious swerving around issues due to the LockRite in the ft. I guess I’ll have to get a SYE. Thanks for the help all.

Yucca-Man · Apr 4, 2004

ChuckD said:
You are about set up like I was. I had the OEM drive shaft, YJ or extended yoke, 1" drop, ext shackles,4.5" springs and the D44. I had zero vibes. If you get this combo you do not need an SYE.

He said in the first post that it's a TJ case; that's the same as the newer (96+) XJ t-case and although it doesn't have the leaks, it is more prone to vibes. See the last post though, it's the rear shaft and an SYE is needed.

Jim

ChuckD · Apr 4, 2004

Bronco said:
Well it turned out not to be a mystery at all, a guess the new tranny just sits up higher than the old one and that was just enough to exceed the angle the Drive Shaft could handle. I got under there today and pulled the Rear DS and it had clear evidence that it had been hitting its self. I put the FT DS on and took the bk one off and the problem was gone. Course now I have some serious swerving around issues due to the LockRite in the ft. I guess I’ll have to get a SYE. Thanks for the help all.

So it's binding at the yoke and the DS? Do you have the ext. Yoke (the ears are longer not the splines)? I also have a 1" drop kit that I made, it's like Go-Jeeps.

Bronco · Apr 5, 2004

I don’t think I do have the extended yoke because the ears are not very long. It is binding at the yoke to DS U joint. So the extended slip yoke and drive shaft you were talking about may be just like mine but with longer ears? I was also thinking of just shaving between the ears a bit with a grinder but I actually have some new springs that will hopefully bring my Bk end up an inch or two (to correct the sag from AALs) so I may need to just get the SYE. I’m thinking why not hack n tap?

ChuckD · Apr 5, 2004

With your model Tcase, a Hack-n-tap is the way to go. It's the Cheapest one out there. Before getting new springs have yo considered blocks? YOu should read this post by Goatman.

http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=23381

I have these and I can feel the difference, less spring wrap.

Gary E · Apr 5, 2004

Bronco said:
Well it turned out not to be a mystery at all, a guess the new tranny just sits up higher than the old one and that was just enough to exceed the angle the Drive Shaft could handle. I got under there today and pulled the Rear DS and it had clear evidence that it had been hitting its self. I put the FT DS on and took the bk one off and the problem was gone. Course now I have some serious swerving around issues due to the LockRite in the ft. I guess I’ll have to get a SYE. Thanks for the help all.

It may be the newer tranny mount the old ones tend to sag and let you get away with more lift. But the SYE is definatly a nice upgrade. You can just grind the yokes a bit more for now though.

basalt51 · Apr 6, 2004

Bronco said:
I don’t think I do have the extended yoke because the ears are not very long. It is binding at the yoke to DS U joint. So the extended slip yoke and drive shaft you were talking about may be just like mine but with longer ears? I was also thinking of just shaving between the ears a bit with a grinder but I actually have some new springs that will hopefully bring my Bk end up an inch or two (to correct the sag from AALs) so I may need to just get the SYE. I’m thinking why not hack n tap?

I had some installation issues with the hackntap. I started with too small a bit (1/16th as recommended by DPGoffroad) and not enough patience. Ended up breaking the bit off about 1" into the shaft, then work hardening everything else trying to drill it out. $200 later the machine shop got it all fixed up for me. Be sure you take your time and drill straight into the shaft.

HD SYE's allow you to run the front DS in the rear if necessary.

ChuckD · Apr 6, 2004

basalt51 said:
I had some installation issues with the hackntap. I started with too small a bit (1/16th as recommended by DPGoffroad) and not enough patience. Ended up breaking the bit off about 1" into the shaft, then work hardening everything else trying to drill it out. $200 later the machine shop got it all fixed up for me. Be sure you take your time and drill straight into the shaft.

HD SYE's allow you to run the front DS in the rear if necessary.

Front DS is too short with a MT, even if you use an AT one.

Mark U joints before taking them apart?

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