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RE Hack and tap

GTsenre

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Danville, PA
I'm getting the RE Hack and Tap SYE, I was wondering if anyone has done one? And if anyone has any tips for installing it. Such as what was used to cut the shaft, and what was done to ensure that the hole is drilled straight.
Thanks
 
GTsenre said:
I'm getting the RE Hack and Tap SYE, I was wondering if anyone has done one? And if anyone has any tips for installing it. Such as what was used to cut the shaft, and what was done to ensure that the hole is drilled straight.
Thanks


http://www.off-road.com/jeep/cherokee/98/03_mar/RE_SYE/slip-yoke.html

The above link is really well written and has very good pictures that would be helpful.

Let us all know how it turns out-

Jeff-97XJ
 
GTsenre said:
I'm getting the RE Hack and Tap SYE, I was wondering if anyone has done one? And if anyone has any tips for installing it. Such as what was used to cut the shaft, and what was done to ensure that the hole is drilled straight.
Thanks

Will this work on an '93 w/NP231?
 
GTsenre said:
I'm getting the RE Hack and Tap SYE, I was wondering if anyone has done one? And if anyone has any tips for installing it. Such as what was used to cut the shaft, and what was done to ensure that the hole is drilled straight.
Thanks
Do it right. Split the case and have a machinist cut, drill, and tap the shaft for you. Worth the trouble.
Dan.
 
TRNDRVR said:
Do it right. Split the case and have a machinist cut, drill, and tap the shaft for you. Worth the trouble.
Dan.
If you're going that far.... get the HD unit instead..... But the hack and tap on the jeep is easy if you drill straight and don't push on it like crazy, back it out often to get rid of the drilled out pieces, use cutting oil heavily!
 
OILBURNER said:
If you have an angle grinder & a tap driver, the job is pretty much a piece of cake if you do have the nerve to do it ;)

Yup, that is a very important point: use a tap driver instead of a ratchet as with ratchet it's possible to break the tap :D
 
I have an el cheapo one that's basically a chuck with a ~2" t-bar that worked great. Not enough room to use the other style.
And as mentioned earlier, it gives you a safeguard against snapping the tap.

Patience is the key...

HTH,
 
rj454 said:
Will this work on an '93 w/NP231?
That's exactly what they're talking about, although with the old-style output on the 93 you'd need RE1801 SYE. Later models use the RE1807.

Friend of mine has done so many of these that she has a carbide wheel permanently mounted in a small circular saw that has been permanently "borrowed" from a family member. Doesn't take much to cut the end off although one recommendation I heard later was to leave the t-case in 'N' so the output shaft will freewheel...this reduces the possibility of your making an angled cut across the output shaft.

Clean the splines up and run a small chamfer around the outside edge so the flange seats better and continue hookin' it up. It's a pretty simple yet strong install.
 
Just got done installing mine. I cranked the motor and put the trans in reverse, that seemed to make it a little easier to keep straight. Here's a couple of pics.

Cut output

99672229-sye1.jpg


Tapped and flange bolted on

57731955-sye2.jpg


Done

103828252-sye3.jpg
 
96country said:
Just got done installing mine. I cranked the motor and put the trans in reverse, that seemed to make it a little easier to keep straight. Here's a couple of pics.

Tapped and flange bolted on

57731955-sye2.jpg


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Isn't the flange mounted on backwards in this pic? :confused:
 
gupandme said:
yeah... what about that, what about that?!? :rtm:

Mine came with a washer clipped in one end of the splined flange so it could only be installed one way. I also noticed that the flange on the driveshaft uses that "hub" on the output to center the shaft. So... :moon:

57731955-sye2.jpg
 
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