Lift issues...

Okay I got my 4.5 inch Rough Country lift on, but as usual there were a few problems. For one I know I will have to get brake line extensions and I will probably get some stainless steel ones through Rubicon Express, that's the easy one. Secondly my rear passenger shock is disconnected at the top due to faulty bolts, and I've heard two seperate views on dealing with that, I don't think that is a major issue.

The major issues I see are that the springs clamps used on my spring pack (Dakota leafs + RC add-a-leaf) are already loose and will soon fall off, they are cheap and simply cannot hold the pressure of the leaf pack when it spreads apart during flex.

Next is the most major issue, when in 4 wheel drive I can hear either my front or my rear drive shaft popping, I think it's the rear cause the front driveshaft angle looks fine so I think it's the rear at the t-cases output shaft cause the driveshaft is definitely pulled away from the t-case.

Now what do I need back there? Slip yoke eliminator, CV style driveshaft? BOTH? I've never dealt with this before so give me some advice on this, I'm sure I can find some better spring clamps for those leafs so I think I should address the more serious issue first which is my popping driveshaft(s) and my brake lines.

TB-XJ said:

Okay I got my 4.5 inch Rough Country lift on, but as usual there were a few problems. For one I know I will have to get brake line extensions and I will probably get some stainless steel ones through Rubicon Express, that's the easy one. Secondly my rear passenger shock is disconnected at the top due to faulty bolts, and I've heard two seperate views on dealing with that, I don't think that is a major issue.

The major issues I see are that the springs clamps used on my spring pack (Dakota leafs + RC add-a-leaf) are already loose and will soon fall off, they are cheap and simply cannot hold the pressure of the leaf pack when it spreads apart during flex.

Next is the most major issue, when in 4 wheel drive I can hear either my front or my rear drive shaft popping, I think it's the rear cause the front driveshaft angle looks fine so I think it's the rear at the t-cases output shaft cause the driveshaft is definitely pulled away from the t-case.

Now what do I need back there? Slip yoke eliminator, CV style driveshaft? BOTH? I've never dealt with this before so give me some advice on this, I'm sure I can find some better spring clamps for those leafs so I think I should address the more serious issue first which is my popping driveshaft(s) and my brake lines.

Click to expand...

Dude, look at your driveshaft in that picture...the popping sound you hear is your driveshaft bottoming out on the t-case yoke.

Swarmi Marmi says a SYE and CV shaft are in your near future!

SYE and driveshaft asap.

sye and cv driveshaft would be great, but if you don't have the money, get a driveshaft from a XJ with a manual tranny (1" longer than auto) and get a YJ slipyoke (more clearance).

Another low-budget partial fix would be a transfer case lowering kit.

Why do people say "I have no money for an SYE?", Then you shouldn't have money for a lift, they go hand in hand.

regarding the brake lines, go to parts store and get yj front lines, both sides, direct fit and about 2.5" longer. in the rear i run a brake line meant for a '72-93 dodge truck. same fittings, just about 4" longer.
kent

I got a transfer case lowering kit with the Lift but I was reluctant to install it because of advice from guys in my club, they said it was better not to lower anything because of clearence issues. I could install it until I save up for a CV drive shaft and SYE.

What brands of driveshafts are good for the price (Tom Woods maybe?) and who all sell's the hack & tap (cheaper) SYE's besides Rubicon?

tom woods driveline and sye $400 shipped (370 for mine with the feb. rebate ...)
parts were at my door four days after i ordered
5 hrs to install and shim the rear end with no power tools in the driveway
any questions on shimming check tom's site and search this forum
much great info
order a couple of shims, possibly a two and three degree that way you will be ready when the parts arrrive i got by with a three degree

TB-XJ said:

I got a transfer case lowering kit with the Lift but I was reluctant to install it because of advice from guys in my club, they said it was better not to lower anything because of clearence issues. I could install it until I save up for a CV drive shaft and SYE.

What brands of driveshafts are good for the price (Tom Woods maybe?) and who all sell's the hack & tap (cheaper) SYE's besides Rubicon?

Click to expand...

Do the Tcase drop and maybe find a YJ slip yoke or buy one from Rusty's or somewhere. Where you are on the lift, an SYE would be perfect, but you can get by with the slip yoke. Just remember that if you lower your tcase, you will have to point your pinion up a bit.

I just took my t/case yoke loose from the driveline and clearanced it a bit with a bench grinder. I've since wheeled the tar out of it with no problems. Free is much cheaper than used YJ yoke. I also moved my rear axle forward about 11/16" (by drilling the longer than stock spring perch) to get the yoke back in the t/case and lessen the vibes. It's really not too bad now. Not a permanent fix, but it's been there for 6 months now with zero problems.

Jaredatriot: