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Long arms/full width done *pics*

JeepFreak21

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Cameron Park, CA
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Everything turned out perty good and it doesn't look like I'm going to have as many clearance issues as I thought. More testing tomorrow along with alignment and maybe some flex tests (more pics of course). :cool:

Billy
 
Looks good. Would look even better with some coilovers under there.

-jb
 
Did you sleeve the frame where the 6 bolts for the x-member go through?

-jb
 
vintagespeed said:
Looks good. Would look even better with some coilovers under there.

-jb

Hell it would look better with any coils under there. :greensmok Nice work Billy.
I like the yellow. That about as clean as your jeep has ever looked underneath.
 
Very impressive. Did you fab everything yourself or was it a long arm kit from someone?
 
Why the fixed upper arms? You might find you'll need adjustable uppers for castor and pinion angle changes. Also, the crossmember is going to take a LOT of stress, much of it rotational. One easy way to add strength would be to add a 1/4" plate to the ends of the crossmember running the full lenght of the frame bracket. Taper the leading and trailing ends of the plate up to the bracket to reduce snagging on rocks etc. Weld the full length of the plate to the bracket and all the way around the box tubing. Nice looking job on the brackets. HTH. TC
 
Is there any reason why you mounted your arms about 3" under the frame rails? If you were going to build this setup from scratch why not keep it nice and tucked up under the jeep? I can see those suckers hitting quite a few rocks when you get in the big stuff.
 
TC said:
Why the fixed upper arms? You might find you'll need adjustable uppers for castor and pinion angle changes. Also, the crossmember is going to take a LOT of stress, much of it rotational. One easy way to add strength would be to add a 1/4" plate to the ends of the crossmember running the full lenght of the frame bracket. Taper the leading and trailing ends of the plate up to the bracket to reduce snagging on rocks etc. Weld the full length of the plate to the bracket and all the way around the box tubing. Nice looking job on the brackets. HTH. TC

Ditto on bracing the crossmember. With the mounting point low, you will be applying a lot of leverage against the butt weld joint. At the least, a simple gusset as shown. Better yet, another one in front of the crossmember.

longarms_yellow2.jpg


The lower arms look almost symmetrical. Maybe you could turn them around so the adjustable end is at the axle. This would allow for castor and pinion angle adjustment. Looks like there's quite a bit of angle at the pinion u-joint.

The yellow looks cool. Nice clean looking fab work. However, shiny yellow attracks dust. Dust is made up up minute particles of dirt. Dirt is created when rock erodes due to wind and water, therefore, your arms will attract rocks. :looney:
 
TC said:
Why the fixed upper arms? You might find you'll need adjustable uppers for castor and pinion angle changes. Also, the crossmember is going to take a LOT of stress, much of it rotational. One easy way to add strength would be to add a 1/4" plate to the ends of the crossmember running the full lenght of the frame bracket. Taper the leading and trailing ends of the plate up to the bracket to reduce snagging on rocks etc. Weld the full length of the plate to the bracket and all the way around the box tubing. Nice looking job on the brackets. HTH. TC

I'm probably going to add the adjustability to the uppers after a while... I just didn't have the time, money, patients, or supplies to do it now. As far as the crossmember, I'm definatly planning to fix it up like you suggested.
Thanks,
Billy
 
Bender said:
Is there any reason why you mounted your arms about 3" under the frame rails? If you were going to build this setup from scratch why not keep it nice and tucked up under the jeep? I can see those suckers hitting quite a few rocks when you get in the big stuff.


It's all a compromise... my original plan was to have those brackets flipped up side down on top of the crossmember (3" above instead of 3" below), but I couldn't get the angle I needed and it would have hit on the exhaust and front driveshaft. Also, it would have put the arms at more of an angle and the bracket connecting the lowers to the uppers would have hit the frame rail right as it starts to go up for the wheel well. By having them lower, I'm hoping it'll give me a better ride (arms more parrellel to the ground) and the ability to go higher in the future, not to mention protecting my driveshaft (damn low pinion :mad:). I tried to build everything to take the abuse from the rocks... but we'll see...
Thanks,
Billy
 
I really like your steering setup too. Looks beefy. What parts did you use to make it?
 
i hope that front u-joint angle isn't as bad as it looks :O

especially since you already have the brackets all setup, it would be a HUGE pain in the A$$ to cut and turn the knuckles then move all your brackets. why didn't you cut and turn them while you were building all the brackets? It's pretty easy, 2 hours with angle grinder and welder for when I did my LP Waggy44 which was the first time I had done it.
 
mad maXJ said:
i hope that front u-joint angle isn't as bad as it looks :O

especially since you already have the brackets all setup, it would be a HUGE pain in the A$$ to cut and turn the knuckles then move all your brackets. why didn't you cut and turn them while you were building all the brackets? It's pretty easy, 2 hours with angle grinder and welder for when I did my LP Waggy44 which was the first time I had done it.


We'll see how it goes.
Billy
 
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