first lift

Here’s the deal, I have a 1995 XJ Country, 4.0, four door. I have spent months going over the threads in this and other similar websites. I have followed the advise given and put tow hooks, skid plates and several other mods (airtube and K&N cone filter, Flowmaster Exhaust with 2.5” pipe) on prior to considering a lift. Digesting the info on lifts is fairly difficult for a new comer. I have found posts from people who love or hate nearly every brand and size of lift out there. For example many say “never buy X brand, I hated it, everything sucked,” and the next post will read, “I have X brand and have had no problems with it and have been very happy with it.”

I have a limited budget and a limited stomach for disappointment so I am thinking small (less expensive kits with add-a-leafs). Next weekend is Truck Fest here in Northern California (over 100 vendors with reduced price inventory) and it could be a great opportunity for me to pick up a decent lift at a low price. I would like input on the following brands of 3” lifts (only from people who have actually used them, please don’t post hear-say, also if you like/dislike please post a clear reason): Rancho, Pro Comp, SkyJacker (standard kit with add-a-leafs), and RE 6020 (super ride with add-a-leafs). Also, the actual heights of each of these would be nice as well (they all claim to handle 31” tires but as I have read, the actual height varies by brand).

A follow up question, should a guy with a limited budget, who does a limited amount of off-roading (only a few times a year) even consider lifting his XJ? I enjoy working on my rig as much as I do actually off-roading it.

Thanks in advance for your input,
Clay

Well if you enjoy working on your rig, you may consider getting dirty and looking through some junk yards. I have basiclly built my rig on used parts, getting stuff at %50 the cost of new.

It sounds like your looking at a 3-4" lift, for the most part this can be done rather cheaply. (Add-a-leafs or leafs fro other packs) and (coils spacers or used set of 3" coils) can get you the lift you need, then the only other important would be Lower Control Arms and an Adj. Trackbar and shocks. The last three you may have to buy new, they do come up forsale now and then.

The last parts like brake lines and such, can be relocated or modified cheaply.

I do understand that having a kit is nice, most company's do a pretty good job of making sure that all the reguired parts are there. You normally get what you pay for.

maybe you missed the thread Which Lift ...it's on the first page of modified tech. I think the general consensus around here is you can't go wrong with RE. I run RE parts and they are good stuff, quality product. I can only urge you to use the "Search" button without hounding you. Not my intention to call you out or anything. With using the search button you will find many threads, relating Pro Comp to Pro Cr_p. Fill in the blank.

Using the search feature you will get all sorts of threads with lots of people running each different brand of lift. Judge your opinion on not only the lift, but the problems they post such as thread topics with the name "Brand X Springs sagging what do I do?" There are some clear indications as to what happens to some brand's springs etc.. Haven never run anything but RE parts, I can't say that other companies products suck, but RE is good stuff.

Where do I start?

You are at the exact point that I was at last year at this time. I did heavy research on all of the kits that you have listed plus a lot more. Bottom line you have to start some where. This is what I ended up with and why.
RE 6030 Kit with adjustable track bar, transfer case drop, Old Man Emu long travel shocks and steering dampner. I installed the lift and aligned the front end.

What did I end up with? A very nice riding lifted Jeep XJ with good flex, good on road manners and off road manners. Does it ride soft and original? NO. Why not ? Because when you change the original geometry of the steering and suspension and then you add nitrogen shocks, light truck 6 ply tires and hiem joints everything changes.

What you do end up with is a more capable stiffer riding rig.
What do you loose? The factory ride, acceleration, looser feeling steering.
I work in a body and mechanical shop and I test drove a 2000 Cherokee that was bone stock after fixing it. I asked myself why did I change my truck? This one rides so nice compared to mine. Then I drove into the snow left by the snow plow in the road and had a hard time making it through. I said self this is why.

I ended up with the RE 6030 because it made the most sense to me. No body could really say anything negative about the kit other that the instructions are just words with no pictures. I think that a lot of people who are dissatisfied with there kit has a lot to do with the installation. I do not have any problems with the kit and it is very well built. If I decide to go higher It will not take much but then again I do not plan on going over a 32" tire size. would I like to yes. Can I do that with a new house, wife and son? Not with out being alone with my kick ass Jeep

You say you are budget minded then go for the 6020 kit with the rear add-a-leafs. You will be sacraficing ride quality in the rear so speed bumps and wash board roads will not be enjoyable. Your front and rear ends will not flex as much but that all comes with price.

The RE kit comes with everything that you need your responsability is to ensure that it is installed right.

Advantages of the RE kit in your price range.
They make kits for jeeps and as of late super duty fords.
They drive jeeps and a place to test them real world.
They are honest and willing to help. ( just hang up the phone and redial if you get Shawn)
They use rubber bushings in the rear springs and control arms to keep a better ride.
You can always upgrade.

I cannot say what other kits are like beacause I have never owned a differnt kit. I can say this. I am sure that the other kits in the price range are probably just fine. I have never had any body say that I made a bad move by installing RE.

With the 3.5" kit I ended up with a hair over 4 in lift over stock. The rear I ended up with 4.25 in. but that is with a spring pack not aal. Now after settled with front winch bumper rear bumper and spare tire carrier, Yakima roof rack hi lift jack, etc. etc. etc. I still have roughly 3.5" lift in the front and 3.25" in the rear. Still fully cleares 31" tires with no rubbing with no sway bar in rear and front disconnected.

I hope this helps. if you have any questions just reply. I truly hope you find what you are looking for.

Be very carefull if you do this because once you start it is hard to stop!
It is amazing how the green just rolls out of your pocket.

Joe

For all the reasons mentiond and more I also strongly recomend RE, I have gone thru Rough Contry>Rancho>Tomken>RE and they have the best kits by far.

Thank you for your replies.

Cesar and Soolong: I will probably go with RE. I know that RE is very popular here in these Forums. I have wondered whether that is justified or whether it has just become the cool product for the extreme offroaders (I am neither cool nor an extreme offroader). I do like the fact that their lifts are upgradeable and so I can start small and go big if I have good experiences with it.

Majo: I have been using the "search" feature of this site for several months (as I explained in the original post) and yes, I have read and followed the "Which Lift" thread (I thought that it was obvious that I could not afford the lifts being discussed on that thread, which is why I decided to make my own thread to discuss less expensive lift options). I know that RE is very popular here but there have been threads discussing how bad they are as well (for example, the now famous XJ00 thread in which the guy spent thousands of dollars trying to correct all of the problems he encountered after installing a RE 3.5" lift, after spending thousands, he stripped it all off and sold it as parts). As I said in my original post, I have a low tolerance for disappointment. Also, I have read the threads where people say Pro Comp, Rancho, SkyJacker suck, springs sag, etc. and within these threads there is usually some quiet voice (short post) saying "I have run X brand for years and have never had a problem." Does this mean that lifts are simply a roll or the dice? That I can have no confidence in the quality of the parts or the effects of the lift on my vehicle? I appreciate that all rigs are different and will respond differently to a lift. This is why I wanted to get a clear thread detailing experiences, good and bad, with lower cost 3" lifts.

ChuckD: Thanks for the advice. While I have gone used on the skids that I have installed, I'd prefer not to go used on something as vital to vehicle stability and safety as springs. Some used springs I’m sure would be fine but it is the fear of getting hashed out springs that prevents me from going after them. By the way, I really liked you website. You have had your rig in some pretty cool places with beautiful scenery. It looks like your from Northern CA, right?

Clay

I have a 1994 country and was in a similar situation. I was on a limited budget, little experience, and wanted to be able to do it in the comfort of my garage by myself. I ended up going with coil spacers and an add-a-leaf. Took a lot of work and mistakes, but got it to work and now it looks good. I am also thinking about re-arching the leaf springs to bring the back end up a little. Later.

if your on a budget y not just go the route i chose, a budget boost. for alittle over a hundred bucks you can get one with coil spacers and shakles, aal would be ok to but dont go with lift blocks. youd be suprised what two inches does. It makes an xj look really cool unless of course it is parked next to an even bigger xj. Personally I would recommmend the budget boost by teraflex for 2 reasons 1 it has worked great for me the whole week ive had it on and 2 its the only lift of any hight ive ever owned. Just My 2 cents though

I have had concerns about coil spacers, perhaps unfounded but maybe you guys can easy my concerns. First, if you raise the height of your rig you are raising its center of gravity (making it less stable because you are not widening its base proportionally--simple physics). Coil spacers don't add any stability increases over the original suspension so you end up with a vehicle that is less safe (perhaps this is unavoidable when lifting a vehicle but it seems that by using add-a-leafs and full length coils, you can increase the stiffness of the suspension and thus regain at least some of the stability that you lost by lifting the vehicle). Second, I am not sure how coil spacers perform off road (under flexing condition). This concern is less important to me than the safety issue but still, if I am going to raise the rig I'd like it to be reasonably competent when I do go off roading.

I may be wrong on both counts (I kind of hope I am cause it would save me money). If anyone knows differently please let me know.

Thanks,
Clay

Well most lifted coils are the smae spring rate per manufacture. I run two 2" spacers on top of my 4.5" coils, no problems offroad or on. I think they kinda act a a built in bumpstop. They give you the lift with less travel.

As far as COG, the only way you can lift without affect this is by a body lift. Go ahead and ask that question I dare ya!

I run a Skyjacker 3" lift (the cheapest one they sell). I've had it on for 3 years now and it has held up well. The actual height was about 4" and it sagged to 3.5" in the front and 3" in the rear. The front springs are stiffer than stock but feel good now that they're worn in, they were very stiff at first. The rear AAL is full-length and does stiffen it up quite a bit, but it's not bad. I don't care for the lower control arms too much. They use poly on both ends and flex ok; they're definitely stout though. They've taken a lot of abuse without denting or bending.

Some tips:
1. Don't run a trac-bar relocating bracket if any kit comes with it. Just re-drill the hole to re-center the axle.
2. Plan on a transfer case drop for the 3"-3.5" range, you can probably do just 1/2".
3. Get LCA's that are either offset at the axle end (like RE or TeraFlex) or that have an elbow bend in them (like Rusty's or Pro Comp). It allows for more droop in your suspension.
4. Stick with what comes in the kit for now. (don't add extra spacers, etc.). They design their kits with the advertised height in mind and you'll have to fine tune everything if you change stuff.

Maybe I don’t know enough yet, but when I lifted by jeep I never did anything with the trac bar. I also see lifts in catalogs that have trac bar relocation brackets, but everyone says to get an adjustable one, so why would they sell you a bracket? They must serve some purpose. Is it just supposed to correct the steering geometry?

if you are going with a 3 in i know people will flame me for this but on my first xj i bought a 100.00 rough country lift from jcw and i got over 3.5 in of lift front and 2.75 rear i ran this lift for a year and never took it easy on it and it took all i could give it . i sold the jeep in aug of last year and the guy i sold it to is still beating it hard and all this for 100.00 and it fir 31x11.5 ltb's with no rubbing :wierd:

joecool said:

Maybe I don’t know enough yet, but when I lifted by jeep I never did anything with the trac bar. I also see lifts in catalogs that have trac bar relocation brackets, but everyone says to get an adjustable one, so why would they sell you a bracket? They must serve some purpose. Is it just supposed to correct the steering geometry?

Click to expand...

The track bar relocation bracket is supposed to let you re-center the axle after lifting while still using the stock track bar. It changes the angle of the track bar though and gives you more bump steer. An adjustable track bar is a good upgrade, but not essential when starting out with a 3-inch lift.

I'm working on my first lift as well, but I chose another route. First, I did a whack of research. I wanted to find out what to avoid, what was crap, what was acceptable and what I could afford.

Not easy marrying those three, but I've done OK.

Then, I made a 'grocery list' of items I needed/wanted. I used and excel spreadsheet to track what the parts cost new, what they cost used, shipping, taxes and 'duty' (I live north of the border in Ontario). I also did a comparison of what the parts cost shipped from the US versus what I would pay here in Ontario.

Lets just say I'm buying from the states and having it shipped.

I started scanning all the boards for used parts. Takes patience, but it was worth it.

I picked up up a pair of Rusty's 3" coils, Rusty's LCAs and a Skyjacker adjustable trackbar from a guy on the East Coast. When I got that stuff in, I looked at each part, then looked at what was stock on my 98 Cherokee (which is now my own on accounta me and the Mrs. broke down and bought a 2004 Grand Cherokee Grocery Cart which also explains why I'm on a tight budget). I tried to vision how the parts went on and how they interact with eachother. Gave me a good understanding of how to do things, and how they'd work.

Then, I took the coils to a shop and had them sandblasted to get rid of the old paint and powdercoat. Same thing with the LCAs. Through work, I was able to send this stuff out for recoating, no charge (we call them government jobs ). When that stuff came back, I retapped the grease fittings to 3/8 and replaced. Bushings were top notch so I didn't have to replace them.

The trackbar doesn't need attention. Damn thing looks like new outta the package.

Then I picked up a set of stock XJ springs and took them apart. Same deal. Clean and powdercoat. I've got an RE 2.5" AAL coming. Once they're in, I'll start putting the rear springs back together. I'll be paying another visit to the scrap yard to pick up what I need to get a full 3" in the back.

Yeah, it might sag in a few years, but by then, I'll have inchitis bad and will be looking to upgrade. That's when I"ll go with the full 4.5" leafs.

I'm still looking for UCAs, but am going to go adjustable for expansion to 4.5". I'll probably go with ACOS then, too but that's down the road. If I had it to do again, I'd have held out for adjustable lowers, but its the budget thing.

I got the shocks for a song, too.

Basically, I'm under $500 Canadian for my lift, so far which ain't bad really considering that I was quoted around $1300 Canadian for an RE 3.5 (with shocks) for a lift kit by various places up here.

If anyone asks where I got my lift, I can say with a straight face . . . North Carolina, Colorado, Arizona, California and Michigan.

Now all I'm after is 31's (they're about $200 a pop Canadian which is about $12 US ) and maybe some rims, but I can go with the stock five spoker's for now.

I'll be keeping my eye out for specials on SYE/Tom Woods in the future.

Anyhow, the point of this is that if you're patient and read up on a bunch of stuff, look around and understand how everything works together, you'll be better off for it.

At least that's what I think.

Well I am in the same boat as you bud.

I with a lot of help from my Jeep Club (Jeepcompany.ca & ) and National 4WD Centers, I am going with this set-up on my 1994 Jeep XJ 4-dr 5sp. 4.0L:

RE6020 3.5" SuperRide with aal
Skyjacker Hydro Shocks
31" TruXus Mud Terrains on Rockcrawler Wheels (Black) 15"

I am also doing alot of non suspension mods, and hope to have this XJ done by April sometime, so far I have the shocks and kit sitting in my garage, I made up my mind on the basis of price / quality and the type of trails that I am going to run (mud and deep water) Getting a lift depends on a lot of personal things, and for me being a new to the sport as well, made the first right choice of asking around first.....good luck and let us know what u decided and take lots of pics for us to see ur Jeep...

GQ

Thank you, everyone, for your input. I really apreciate it.

Clay