• Welcome to the new NAXJA Forum! If your password does not work, please use "Forgot your password?" link on the log-in page. Please feel free to reach out to [email protected] if we can provide any assistance.

bought a drivers side pinion front d60 cheaper to retube axle or put in dif t-case?

H

hpi_jeep

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Mid-Missouri
well i bought a passenger side pinion front d60 today, i still have the 231 in my jeep, im just exploring my options, would it be cheaper to put in a different transfer case (if so list what options i have here), or would it be cheaper to pull the tubes out of the axle and put new ones in?

right now i think im leaning more towards the transfer case thing, just because now would be a perfect time to "upgrade" are there any cases that would bolt directly to the aw4 tranny?

if you guys can give me any pointers here that would be great.
 
I don't know how much a shop near you would charge to swap the tubes, but I'm guessing it would be about the same price as a D300, but you would also get rid of the inferior 231 in the process. this would require reworking your transmission hump, and I think a clocking ring, but pretty straight-forward.
 
you can go with a 300. unflipped. need a clocking ring, major floor/tranny tunnel work, exhaust work, new drive shafts, Butit can be done. dave
 
tranny hump is no big deal and you would believe me if you seen the rest of my jeep ;)

how much is a clocking ring and what exactly does it do?

as for exhaust i could just have the exhaust come from the manifold and go straight back instead of crossing to passenger side, right? or am i missing something?

this might have already been covered but im going to ask. i have quite a bit of money in my current driveshafts and dont wanna do this again. at orsheln's (a wal-mart for farmers) they have driveshaft parts but the shafts are all square, could i make a shaft out of these and expect it to hold up to some stress?

does the d300 have a better "crawl ratio" it would be nice if it was better or even the same as the 231, i dont wanna step backwards at the same time here.
 
dang, i was hoping it was rediculasly(sp?) 5.1 :D

the axles have 4.10 (or 4.11) gears in them and it's either wait and regear, or throw the axles in the jeep then regear to 5.? or even 6.? but the way things look i will be running 4.11 gears for 3-4 wheeling trips. do you think the 300 will hold up to the stress?

im running 38.5" swamper tsl sx's and will have steel wheels so my wheel/tire combo will be on the heafty side.


wich brings me to my next question, if i was to only do one of the 2 what would be better (easier on driveline components) put 4.1 in t-case or really numerically high gears in the axles? and wich would be cheaper? im trying to keep this project to a minimum so the other half (women :worship: ) doesnt get pissed.
 
trail only, but it is lisenced and insured just incase some trails lead to the highway (i had the club take off from a trail straight to highway without calling over the cb, times like that i would like to be lisenced.)

any idea what vehicle i could steal the 300 from? old wagoneers, or scouts?
 
Mid 80's CJ is that the D300 needs to come from - also your tranny needs to be 23 spline for the 300 to work... (AKA 1991+)

The clocking ring just alows you to rotate the t-case around the mainshaft of the tranny for the best fit and ground clearence - I don't know cost but IIRC it is 150 - 200$ for the ring (CO2Guy on pirate sells them)

With 38's: By the time you clock it, get gears, and output (front and rear) kits for that 300 you are rapidly approaching the cost of an atlas which you can get in the 5:1 range

I would think you pressing out the short tube of that 60 after knocking the inner knuckles off and cutting the long side to your needs and then just retubing the one side will be much more cost effective than attempting to build an uber-tcase just to have a pass drop axle work...

I would call and find an axle builder willing to work with you...

Plus you will have heat issues with running the exhaust down the framerail next to all the fuel and brake lines :dunno:

Just my 2ct's

Matt
 
damn madmaxj your helping alot, thanks!

any info on the clocking ring while i have your attention? do you know were i can purchase them, or what kind i will need?

TIA
 
88 tranny... eww.... you're kinda stuck, I don't think they even make an Atlas with the 21 spline input, you could call Advanced Adapters and see if they have a D300 21 spline input or Atlas 21 spline

you may indeed be better off with the 231 and LOW diff gears (you can get 7.17s for D60s :D) having the gearing in the diffs would keep some stress off of the t-case, but I still wouldn't expect the 231 to last for ever, but you could replace several before getting near the cost of a D300, let alone an Atlas

there is always the semi-ghetto way of doing it; cut off both tubes 5 or 6 inches from the diff, sleeve them onthe inside, outside or both with heavy wall tubing and weld um back together on the other sides
 
mad maXJ said:
88 tranny... eww.... you're kinda stuck, I don't think they even make an Atlas with the 21 spline input, you could call Advanced Adapters and see if they have a D300 21 spline input or Atlas 21 spline

you may indeed be better off with the 231 and LOW diff gears (you can get 7.17s for D60s :D) having the gearing in the diffs would keep some stress off of the t-case, but I still wouldn't expect the 231 to last for ever, but you could replace several before getting near the cost of a D300, let alone an Atlas

there is always the semi-ghetto way of doing it; cut off both tubes 5 or 6 inches from the diff, sleeve them onthe inside, outside or both with heavy wall tubing and weld um back together on the other sides
Click to expand...

Come on now! Why no other tranny?! you could also just swap the mainshaft of the AW-4 to get 23 splines

As for sleaving the tubes that is perfectly acceptable and done all the time - just make sure you get a builder who knows how to do it- the easy way would be to leave 6" or so of the short tube to sleeve off of and keep the diff seal at the carrier and then turn it down a bit so you can press a new tube over it and then weld and gusset the whole deal back together.

With t-cases at the pull-apart for under 70$ locally you could gather quite a pile of 231's before you reached the cost of an atlas...

I see an atlas in the long term and a Driver drop 60 in the short term!

Matt

PS- did you see the bit about the clocking ring
 
yeah seen about the clock ring (after you said something)

that seems like the cost will pile up real fast.

is there a t-case swap for a drivers pinion that will work with my tranny (for future reference)

i am going to hit up a machine shop tomorow and see what they can do.

in your guys' opinion do you think a regular machine shop will be capable to do axle work, or should i take it to a specialty shop?
 
it's *technically* not the right way, and if I was taking it to a shop I would have them do something else, but if it were me I would just sleeve it and do it myself. no worries, just make sure the sleeve is really thick, like 2.5" .5 wall, or whatever size the ID is
 
hpi_jeep said:
yeah seen about the clock ring (after you said something)

that seems like the cost will pile up real fast.

is there a t-case swap for a drivers pinion that will work with my tranny (for future reference)

i am going to hit up a machine shop tomorow and see what they can do.

in your guys' opinion do you think a regular machine shop will be capable to do axle work, or should i take it to a specialty shop?
Click to expand...

Yup, Np242, NP 208(if you want to go backwards) - other wise your outta luck

I would try and find a shop that has done lots of axle work previously - most little machine shops pass on the automotive stuff for two reasons - were messy (dirty and greasy) and they don't want to reinvent the wheel (you pay for it in the labor cost)

You best bet is going to be do it yourself or find a place that can help you with just the parts you cannot do - obviously if money was not an issue you would be showing us pics of the new pro-rock 60 you had built!

Matt
 
Matt said:
Yup, Np242, NP 208(if you want to go backwards) - other wise your outta luck

I would try and find a shop that has done lots of axle work previously - most little machine shops pass on the automotive stuff for two reasons - were messy (dirty and greasy) and they don't want to reinvent the wheel (you pay for it in the labor cost)

You best bet is going to be do it yourself or find a place that can help you with just the parts you cannot do - obviously if money was not an issue you would be showing us pics of the new pro-rock 60 you had built!

Matt
Click to expand...

i'll keep the 231, and one of these days jump to an atlas, because by then the atlas2 will be just as cheap as a D300 :D

i had a price quote of a pro 60 (not pro rock but still made by dynatrac) IIRC the base price was $2700, well, lets just say i can't swing that much money right now :D


from this post it probly makes me sound really cheap, usually im not this bad, but i have a lot more then the jeep going on right now so im cutting corners on this project everywere so i dont just have to stop messing with the jeep for a few months.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

K
WJ front axle in Xj -89
2 3
Replies
41
Views
9K
75SV1
7
K
Shop rebuilt front differential failed on first test drive, trying to figure out why?
Replies
4
Views
3K
xcm
xcm
P
95 XJ Front leaf hanger
Replies
2
Views
2K
Profesto
P
S
Work in what order to fix driveline vibes?
Replies
15
Views
5K
denverd1
denverd1
A
Transfer case
Replies
3
Views
1K
Anak
Anak
Back
Top