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Mopar Valve Springs

CRASH

CRASH

NAXJA Forum User
NAXJA Member
Location
Foresthill, CA
Gonna use the Mopar P5249464 valve spring with my Isky camshaft.

Do I need special retainers to hold these, or will my stockers get the job done?

Stroker parts are accumulating at the house.....another week and the whole shebang goes to the machine shop.

CRASH
 
Yes MOPAR Performance retainer is needed

And you might as well get the P4529218 valve locks also (need two cards of 16 each)
I have 10000 miles on my stroker with the MOPAR setup (Comp Cams 235-4) and have yet to take the valve cover off - works fine)
 
rsalemi said:
And you might as well get the P4529218 valve locks also (need two cards of 16 each)
I have 10000 miles on my stroker with the MOPAR setup (Comp Cams 235-4) and have yet to take the valve cover off - works fine)
Click to expand...

OK, got the retainer part #. Thanks for the tip!

CRASH
 
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Chevy valves have an 11/32" stem whereas the Jeep valves have a slightly thinner 8mm stem. This means that you'd have to ream the valve guides to accept the Chevy valves and get the Chevy valve stem oil seals, retainers, and locks.
 
Would the price of the Mopar valves vs. some Manley stainless valves from Summit offset the cost of having the machine work done to the head? Always seems like Mopar parts are more expensive than a quality SBC or SBF aftermarket parts.
 
Willis said:
Would the price of the Mopar valves vs. some Manley stainless valves from Summit offset the cost of having the machine work done to the head? Always seems like Mopar parts are more expensive than a quality SBC or SBF aftermarket parts.
Click to expand...

My old valves are in fine shape, so they are going back in.

The cost of putting in Chevy valves over the cost of re-using stockers is prohibitive.

CRASH
 
hey crash Im using the same mopar springs Dcc-5249464 along with mopar retainers DCC-4452032. thier at my engine shop right now bieng installed along with my valve job. im using A Crane 753901 cam though.
 
The Chevy valves are a great alternative if your stock guides are worn and need replacement...the slightly larger stem size allows the guides to be resized for perfect stem/guide clearance.

Talking about valvetrains....be sure to check the installed plunger depth on the lifters...max is around .050...if the block and/or head are milled to correct deck height problems, you could end up with the stock pushrods being too long...if it is and you "float" the valves...lifter pump up can cause coil bind, bent pushrods, broken rocker arms, pivot bolts, or worse yet...valve or retainer failure...I have the broken parts to prove it. :cry: Pushing the keepers thru the retainer at 6k RPM turns your motor into scrapmetal.
 
MudDawg said:
The Chevy valves are a great alternative if your stock guides are worn and need replacement...the slightly larger stem size allows the guides to be resized for perfect stem/guide clearance.

Talking about valvetrains....be sure to check the installed plunger depth on the lifters...max is around .050...if the block and/or head are milled to correct deck height problems, you could end up with the stock pushrods being too long...if it is and you "float" the valves...lifter pump up can cause coil bind, bent pushrods, broken rocker arms, pivot bolts, or worse yet...valve or retainer failure...I have the broken parts to prove it. :cry: Pushing the keepers thru the retainer at 6k RPM turns your motor into scrapmetal.
Click to expand...

I have a shim kit for the rocker assembly. .010 is coming off the head and .010 off of the block, so a .020 shim is going in.

CRASH
 
MudDawg said:
:thumbup:
Click to expand...

check my mopar springs and retainers :)

cylhead1.jpg
 
CRASH said:
I have a shim kit for the rocker assembly. .010 is coming off the head and .010 off of the block, so a .020 shim is going in.

CRASH
Click to expand...

I am doing something similar. My question is why shim the rockers? Why not use an adjustable pushrod?
 
Adjustable pushrods are an excellent way to go...as would be having a custom set built...in my case, I went through a Melling engine parts catalog and found a set the right lenght...

In the case of my engine, I milled the block .030 to correct an high deck height. Bennie at Hesco said he had seen blocks as much as .100 high. I also milled the head .010...what I didn't check was the cam base circle, or the lifter preload :doh: ...the stock push rods measured at +.005 over stock spec...anyways what I ended up with were Buick 455 pushrods (In my NEW motor)....remember however that my engine is a 2.5, the pushrods in a 4.0 are longer due to the increased deck height needed by the 4.0's longer stroke..

Bennie however did say that parallel ground hardened shim washers are in most cases are a suitable solution that is often used.
 
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