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Battery Cables...Jeepers & Creepers??

Make your own using 2/0 AWG welding wire. It isn't too expensive at a hardware store, or welding supply store. I just made a replacement ground cable out of the stuff, and now I will never worry about that connection again. It is pretty easy. Just need the proper ends, some cable, some solder, and a propane torch. I would suggest using some heat-shrink tubing, as well. The jeepers and creepers cables are nice, but there is no reason you couldn't make them just as nice, or better. Hell, run 1/0 AWG if you want.
 
i actually JUST re-did all of my battery cables.

i used mostly 2/0, 3/0 and 1, 4 gauge wire.

i think i made my wirers nicer, better and cost me like 1/4 of what Jeepersncreepers charges!!!

i also used Marine Grade boat cable (its tinned, to reduce corrossion/oxidation),
AND its more flexible than the straight copper wires. . .
 
Tom -
How about we just link up to-morrow or Thursday, and I'll show you how to do it right? I might even have some leftover 2/0 laying around somewhere...

I say to-morrow or Thursday because my schedule on Monday and Wednesday is a pain...

Oh - and CLEAN OUT YOUR PM BOX if you haven't already! I tried to answer your last, but your PM box is/was full...

5-90
 
I have the Jeepers Creepers Cables. They are way beef, I did get them when they first came out a few years back and the ground was to short, had to call and have one made. They came with free terminals. Don't know if they do that anymore but the shipping is free.I would buy them again but the cost is up there. You can make them yourself, I just didn't feel like making them.
Juice
 
I just redid mine as well. 10.00 for the cable, ends and terminal clamps. I went with 4 gauge, 'though. Maybe its time to upgrade to 0/2!
 
2/0 fine gage welding wire. Very fine stranded copper and flexable as hell. Replaced both Negitive and positive cables.

Clean up the terminals real good and around the starter and where the negitive connects to the block.

Also replace the ground strap from the engine block to the Firewall.
 
Where does one get those kick butt battery terminal connectors?

Burley
 
I get my cable supplies at my local welding supply. 2/0 welder cable runs $1.50 - $2 per foot, cnx about $1 each, and a crimper (hammer-powered) for about $30. You only get the crimper once, and the terminals are solid copper plated with silver. Pack the terminals with Ox-Gard and coat the shanks with heat shrink so the cable end is sealed to the cable jacket.

Use the same treatment to make all your grounds as well. The OEM cables are usually around 6 gage, and that is what I used for my alternator charging and ground cables...

5-90
 
I used the painless remote mount kit to make the ones up for my CJ - http://www.jegs.com/cgi-bin/ncommerce3/ProductDisplay?prrfnbr=4384&prmenbr=361
you can make them up cheaper with welding cable but I used the kit cause the insulation on the painless wiring seemed like it would be more abrasion resistant, it already had sealed terminal ends on it, plus it's a nice shiny bright shade of red :rolleyes: There's enough red wire (15') there to make probably 3 positive cables for an XJ so if you know any one else who needs maybe you can sell them the surplus.
Mike B.
 
I never bought these...

Anyone know what lengths / size I'll need to pickup if I just buy some cables at Napa or something? It looks pretty simple and I think I could do it for a lot less $$. It's just 4 cables and that metal bar correct?
 
Last edited:
Tom -
What year is your XJ? If it's RENIX, I'll measure mine and make a set you can pay me back for. If not, I'll need you to measure yours.

You'll need to get Marine-style battery clamps, use brass like I did. I use Welding cable and industrual connectors (silver over copper) and they're Ox-Garded and sealed when I'm done. I've got the crimper and everything (out in the shop somewhere..) and I can do it if you want. I should still have some leftover cable - if not, I need to get some anyhow.

Email if you're interested. [email protected]

5-90
 
If you are going to make some use wire with insulation that can handle the heat/oil/gas. I like using the silicone fine stranded cable the big buck stereo guys use with plated cast copper clamps like the ones Quick Cable makes.
 
That's why I use welder cable - it can handle anything I've tossed at it! My cables still look like they did when I made them - and the ones on the 89 have been in place for the last five years (four on the 88.)

Think about the abuse welder cable has to be designed to take, and you get the idea. I also like the fact that it doesn't look all "bling!" like the autosound stuff (seriously, why make shiny wiring?) and it runs about the same price or a little cheaper.

Since it's also designed for near-constant handling, it's fine-stranded and therefore very easy to route. Thanks, but I'll stick to it.

5-90
 
There is someone who makes a mat finish. I like my positive cable to be red like the OE. This stuff is finely stranded. I have seen a 4ga wires shorted across a battery for like 15-20 seconds without any noticeable damage even though it smoked. Each to their own though.
 
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