My Girlfriend is getting an XJ soon and wants to lift it.Is Rusty's offroad 3" kit any good?How hard is it to install a 3"kit on the XJ? I know how to do the SOA in the rear , but I have never worked with coils before( I have a YJ).I'm very excited about the addition of an XJ to the family.With a 3" lift do I need to install a slip yoke eliminator kit on the tcase and use a custom drive?Thanks for any feed back. :scottm:
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3" lift questions
- Thread starter Diablito
- Start date
Codeman
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Cincinnati, OH
Installation isnt too hard- may take you a day. I recomend a coil compresor or something tho. As far as i know you do not need a slip yoke or any thing other than the lift itself (shocks, coils/spacers, etc.)
have fun!!!
CODEMAN
have fun!!!
CODEMAN
dellstopjeep
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- KUNA, ID
the front is definitly more complicated than the back but not to difficult. I dont even think u need a coil compressor. The only thing u need is that front brake line for when u disconnect sways. The transfer case drop is not necessary till u go bigger. just make sure u have help to do the job because without extra people helpin i dont think i could have dont everything on my own. does the kit come with lower control arms....that is usually somethin u may need.
- Location
- NC Sandhills
The XJ already is SOA so you got that covered just by getting one 
I loved the 3" Rusty's coils I got for my MJ a few years ago, but that & shox were all I used from that kit.
I've got a 6+" XJ with 231 and I don't use a SYE (yet) just a YJ yoke so a generic answer is "no." 97-newer XJs are reported to be more vibe prone, but I have no first-hand on that. It may have more to do with the C8.25 axle than the slipyoke???
If the GF plans to wheel it with the swaybar disconnected...while the front wheels are off, I'd advise taking a dremel etc...and relieving the rear part of the lower shock mounts. As the axle droops, this 'lip' will contact the OEM LCA and limits the flex. A little bit of metal removed here can open up a bunch more flex. Also one can unbolt the hard brake lines from the fenderwell, straighten them out, then reattach em a bit lower (allowing a bit more slack for the increased droop)
HTH
I loved the 3" Rusty's coils I got for my MJ a few years ago, but that & shox were all I used from that kit.
I've got a 6+" XJ with 231 and I don't use a SYE (yet) just a YJ yoke so a generic answer is "no." 97-newer XJs are reported to be more vibe prone, but I have no first-hand on that. It may have more to do with the C8.25 axle than the slipyoke???
If the GF plans to wheel it with the swaybar disconnected...while the front wheels are off, I'd advise taking a dremel etc...and relieving the rear part of the lower shock mounts. As the axle droops, this 'lip' will contact the OEM LCA and limits the flex. A little bit of metal removed here can open up a bunch more flex. Also one can unbolt the hard brake lines from the fenderwell, straighten them out, then reattach em a bit lower (allowing a bit more slack for the increased droop)
HTH
Jerm S.
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Northern Utah
This kit is a great one for the price you pay for it. I have one on an 88'. They wheel well and the ride is nice. I however personally think that the shocks that it comes with are a little soft for wheelin. But that is my personal preference. and i think that the kit may have changed since i bought it. It may now come with adjustable shocks. I would also tell you to spend the etra dough and get the kit with the full rar spring packs. If you use the add-a-leaf deal it will wear on the main leaf and will sag prematurely.
Some things to look out for on an xj when lifting it are these. One the front eye bolt of the leaf springs. The nut is welded to the inside of a little bracket that is also welded to the frame. It is very common on the olderish XJs to break that nut off the inside of that bracket and that adds a day or two of compication to your lift project. I highly advise you to buy 2 or 3 bottles of wd40 and go to town on everything, a week or two in advance of doing your lift. It isn't too hard to get some wd40 in to the threads on that nut, if you look on the bottom of the frame rail there is a whole near where the bolt goes through, if you put your finger up in there you can feel a whole right behind the bolt and you should be able to feel the end of the bolt too. just use the little red hose that comes with the wd40 and snake it up in there and spray it real good. That will hlep everything go way smoother. Also the two upper shock bolts on the rear shocks. It is so common on every xj for those to rust and just break when you try to remove them. Get the wd40 on those for sure really good early.
If you haven't already bought an XJ look for one that doesn't have a Chrco rearend. they are not nearly as good as the dana ones (even though the dana 35 is a nothing to brag about). If you get an xj that is older than 96 then you should be ok with the drive shaft issue, But xj newer than that have problems with driveshaft vibes if you even add an inch to them.
HTH
Jerm S.
Some things to look out for on an xj when lifting it are these. One the front eye bolt of the leaf springs. The nut is welded to the inside of a little bracket that is also welded to the frame. It is very common on the olderish XJs to break that nut off the inside of that bracket and that adds a day or two of compication to your lift project. I highly advise you to buy 2 or 3 bottles of wd40 and go to town on everything, a week or two in advance of doing your lift. It isn't too hard to get some wd40 in to the threads on that nut, if you look on the bottom of the frame rail there is a whole near where the bolt goes through, if you put your finger up in there you can feel a whole right behind the bolt and you should be able to feel the end of the bolt too. just use the little red hose that comes with the wd40 and snake it up in there and spray it real good. That will hlep everything go way smoother. Also the two upper shock bolts on the rear shocks. It is so common on every xj for those to rust and just break when you try to remove them. Get the wd40 on those for sure really good early.
If you haven't already bought an XJ look for one that doesn't have a Chrco rearend. they are not nearly as good as the dana ones (even though the dana 35 is a nothing to brag about). If you get an xj that is older than 96 then you should be ok with the drive shaft issue, But xj newer than that have problems with driveshaft vibes if you even add an inch to them.
HTH
Jerm S.
RCP Phx
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Phoenix,Az
WD40 is NOT a penetrant!You need something like PB Blaster or Liquid Wrench!
Me and the GF are looking at an 89'loredo XJ in a few hours.Its 6 cyl,4x4,5spd and is going for only $1600. What XJs came with the peoguot Tranny? If it is manual and a 1989 does it come with an AX-15?What should I look out for while inspecting the XJ for purchase?What tcase will it have?I'm familiar with the NP231.
Motornoggin
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Beaverton OR
Jerm S. said:
When I put the AAL in mine, I left the main leaf bolted in and did it in the wheel well.
- Location
- Hartsville, South Carolina
PB Blaster is your friend. The upper shock bolts snap like twigs and the 89 might have the puke goat! Clamshell case.
What is "Puke Goat"? I already know the glory of PB Blaster, I couldn't have lifted my YJ without it.If and when I do lose a bolt what do you guys recomend?I just use the PB blaster and a vise grip maybe a propane torch to heat things up.How are EZ Outs?Ive been told to stay away from them , Have any of you guys used them?Ghost said:
iratefla
- Location
- West Sacramento, CA
"Puke goat" is the Peugot tranny.
we have decided to go with a 91' or newer XJ in order to get the HO 4.0 and to avoid the "puke goat" tranny.I'll try to stay away from XJs with rusty bottoms, but I'm not afraid to use a gas axe if I need to.The Rustys Offroad 3" lift doesn't come with lower control arms, should I install new LCarms when installing the new kit.How is caster and toe-in adjusted on an XJ after the lift has been installed? When I lifted my YJ I just used a pitman arm drop and adjusted the length of my draglink and paid a 4x4 shop to allign it for $100. Should I edo the same with the XJ?
CutLaredo
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Colorado USA
I lifted my Cherokee 3'' myself and I would recommend Rough Country with rear springs, as well as DEFINITELY a trac bar relocator kit, and a steering stabilizer. Hint take the rear swaybar out.
