What do you put in your rear(end)?

I am having new gears put in next week. I found a shop that will do them for $250.00 each if I supply the install kits and the lube. Anyway, He says that I need to run Chrysler lube in the rear ends and it is expensive. I've never put factory lube in the rear ends, I've always used Pensoil. Am I wrong or is he full of it? What do you all run?

If you're running opens, or a locker, I'd run dino juice for break-in, then synthetic. As long as the oil meets GL-5, you're in good shape.

Be forewarned...... Auburn clutch type limited slips do NOT tolerate synthetic.

Dino is a must for the break-in period. Don't use really cheap stuff though. Take a look at the Amsoil gear lube. I've seen it still clear after 12k miles.

--Matt

egon said:

Dino is a must for the break-in period.
--Matt

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I've never read that. I even looked on Randy's R&P site, and they describe break-in with synthetic keeping the gears cooler while they work harden. The gear instructions also didn't say anything about using only dino during break-in. They DID say to change the fluid after a few hundred miles to remove the shavings. I've changed mine twice since the Dana 44 install 1000 miles ago.

If you have a clutch type locker (ie EZ Locker or Lock Right), make sure you use oil specifically for that.
Billy

What do you put in your rear(end)?

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Nothin if I can help it, you?

go hamsters or go home

How tough is it to set the backlash on a hampster?

Beezil said:

go hamsters or go home

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ROTFL! :laugh: :wow: :roflmao:

Gear guy speaks again...

if you follow the istructions for proper breakin then and the job was done by a competent installer (like me!) then why waste money on synthetic only to dump it in a few weeks?
if an install is done right then the only time that mucho heat is present is during the very first initial break in.
here is what I suggest for breakin with dino juice...
the very first drive out should last about 20 min. it should see a variety of driving style from hard acceleration 2-3times, hard downshifting to harden the back side of the gears, and a variety of speeds. when you park it you should be able to hold your hand against the diff cover for more than a few seconds. then park it and let it cool overnight or at least for a few hours. from then on it should only see a varied style of accelllration and deceleration, and speed.
if you have a factory trac-lok limited slip then you need to add a tube of LS friction modifier, this keeps the clutches from chattering. most everything else in terms of lockers and even LS's work just fine of dino juice.
is your installer going to do the work in a shop or is he an indepented? cause $250 is a shop rate here in southern california. I only charge $150/axle.

It is a guy who runs a transmission shop, very competant and highly recomended. I looked around and thought that pirce was a steal. I wish I could find someone competant to put them in for $300.00!

Thanks for the info.

Beezil said:

go hamsters or go home

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:doh: :laugh2: :laugh2: :laugh2:

ChiXJeff said:

If you're running opens, or a locker, I'd run dino juice for break-in, then synthetic. As long as the oil meets GL-5, you're in good shape.

Be forewarned...... Auburn clutch type limited slips do NOT tolerate synthetic.

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Could you elaborate more on your statement about Auburns please? Thanks

Fergie

Fergie said:

Could you elaborate more on your statement about Auburns please? Thanks

Fergie

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Yup...... I'm a little irritated that Auburn doesn't push this better. Per the phone tech support, and on a single web page (http://www.auburngear.com/aftermarket/faq/,) non-synthetic lube must be used with the diffs. The phone gal also said that the aftermarket friction modifiers should be avoided, that one of the major OEM modifiers should be used (also noted in the FAQ.) I was told that synthetics lead to chattering clutches.

Note that none of this is noted in the Auburn Installation Guide.

BTW, if you fill the diff with fresh oil and don't add the friction modifier, an Auburn High Performance limited slip diff will start to chatter in less than a mile.

check around your local clubs. you might get lucky and find a "shadetree" gear installer. there is usually one or two of us somewhere in each city. here is southern california there are a few of use. up in L.A. there is a guy by the name Frank hayes. He aparantly does really good work. I am more in the San Diego area. avoid the guy that advertises in the parts trader, "gears installed, $300 including gear..." I havent tried to call em on it but I bet they re-use the old bearings. just my hunch and I could be wrong...

I just installed a d44 in mine and put good gear oil in and plan on running it for 50K miles just like the factory did when I bought the XJ new. Not sure why people are going crazy over these rear ends? Never changed the gear oil after a few hundred on my last rear and it was fine after over 130K. Only changed the gear oil once during that time. Oh yeah, I am running a posi and my last rear was a posi.

Curt