Engine Raise Points

OK, I'm in the process of replacing the rod bearings in my 4.0 88XJ when I discover the axel is preventing me from dropping the oil pan. It appears that raising the engine an inch may be the easiest way to gain the clearance needed to drop the oil pan. What is the best way to lift the engine - jacking under the bell housing, or using a cherry picker (engine crane)? The vehicle is already on jack stands with the oil pan loose. Besides the engine mounts, is there anything I need to disconnect (exhaust, wiring, hoses, etc.) prior to raising the engine to aviod damage due to lifting? Where would the lift points be on the engine if using a engine crane?

I was removing my oil pan on a lift and ran into the same problem. I had to remove the steering damper from the center link to give me clearance. I also still needed more room on my 88 XJ.

I then loosen the 4 nuts holding the transmission mount to the cross member, then with a 2x10 on the oil pan I jacked up the aft end of the transmission. That gave me enough room to get out the pan.

I hope your pan breaks free of the block easier than mine. I ended up bending the lip. Also when you reassemble use the Mopar one piece pan gasket, works well. My mechanic said to use some RTV silicone to glue the gasket to the block and use the pan bolts to hold it in place 2-4 hours, then remove the bolts and reinstall the pan.

I am sure you know this but having the pan off it just smart money to change the oil pump and pick up. The Manual says to pack the new oil pump with petrolium jelly so it will generate a suction when you start the motor. Also just thought of this... if you want to replace the distributor this would be a good time, with the oil pump out you only have to worry about getting the gear to mesh with the cam, no need to worry about oil pump alignment.

Martin,

Did you have to loosen up the motor mounts as well as the transmission mounts? It looked like I need the lift the engine close to an inch to clear the bottom of the bell housing.

I have already broken the oil pan free of the block. That wasn't as hard as I expected, most likely as it has only been a month since the rear seal was replaced by the dealer. Unfortunately, none of the auto parts stores had a one piece gasket available for the oil pan, so I have to go with a four piece. Good tip on using RTV to seal the gasket to the block though.

I'd personally jack the vehicle up by the frame and not the front axle. Then if you have to disconnect your front shocks. The shocks are what limits your axle from going to full droop. That will hopefully give you enough clearance to get the pan off. Good luck.

Disconnecting the shocks didn't provide any additional clearance. I did drop the sway bar from the frame, which did drop the axel quite a bit. I could possibly remove the pan now except for the oil pump pick up unit is in the way. I could remove the pump, but no one seems to sell a replacement gasket. Seems to be a bit much to buy a new pump just to get a gasket. NAPA and Schucks are the only area auto part stores. I may have to resort to lifting the engine or tranmission, although I was really hoping not to have to disturb their respective mounts.

Thanks for the suggestions though. I welcome all experiences. Anyone else?

Seems like on my MJ (+4.75") I had enough room to drop the pan, replace the pump & gasket, and refit. I may have had my front driveshaft out as well, but don't recall jacking up the motor.

you can leave the motor mounts alone.... no need to touch them to jack the rear of the transmission. Also if you change the motor mounts you are to do ONLY ONE side at a time. That way the engine still supported and remains centered.

On the pan gasket go to you local jeep dealer and buy one.... it worth the $40 trust me on that one!

Thanks Martin, I'll check on the pan gasket at the dealer tomorrow.

I did get the oil pan off. On a hunch after reading another thread concerning the oil pump, I went ahead and removed the pump which gave me all the room I needed to bring the oil pan past the axle. Sure enough, there was no gasket on the oil pump. Now I can get to the task at hand - replacing the bearings. Hopefully, I will be able to get a gasket for the oil pump at the dealer. If not, could RTV be used instead? What does the gasket look like? Thanks for all the help.

What I recall the oil pump gasket is close to a diamond shape. Look at the contact surface on the pump and that will give you an idea what it looks like. there will be the 3 holes - 2 for mount bolts, one for the oil pump shaft. For the buck or two the gasket costs I would get a new one.

Oil pressure too important to chance on RTV. I personally think in general using RTV as the gasket is setting yourself up for failure. At least with a maufactured gasket is the right thickness at all locations and will conform to the imperfections of the mating surfaces.

So with the oil pump off are you going to install a new pump? I remember my dealer parts guy saying Jeep did had a high volume pump but I stayed with the stock pump. Also they are very hyper about the pick up in the pump, if you even move the pick up they say replace it cause you may induce air into the oil system by a leak at the pick up connection to the pump.

If you get the new pump and pick up at the dealer ask them to install the pick up in the pump for you, there a special tool called out. I did the pick up in the freezer, pump in boiling water trick. Might be worth the 1/4 hour labor... I'd do it that way if i was doing it over.

It doesn't seem like anyone addressed the subject of the title of this thread! Where are the best places to attach the chain to lift the engine out? I have already done this, but it was really cheesy. There must be a good place, but I didn't find it.

If it matters, this would be for an engine removal with the intake and exhaust manifolds still on.

Thanks.