A little long, but you asked....
Replaced the clutch/slave/throwout bearing on my '87 MJ about 6 months ago. It's not hard, but make sure you have space and time enough to do it. I had access to a mechanic friend's shop with an electric lift and air tools, which made it alot easier
1. Disco battery and pull fuel pump relay (I'm a safety nut, BTW). Place trans in N, and remove the shifter (from inside of vehicle) from top of trans.
2. If you don't have a hoist, jack up vehicle and support at least the front end as high as safely possible. Block rear wheels
3. Disco driveshaft(s), and remove the starter if you have a 4.0L. If you have a 2.5, you can leave the starter intact.
4. Disco speedo cable, any electrical connectors, vent tubes, CPS, etc., from trans/TC. Disco TC linkage. Support the TC and remove the mounting bolts from the trans. Carefully lower the TC out and put it out of tripping range.
5. Disco hydraulic line from clutch MC from external slave, or if internal, from the S shaped piece of metal line right before it enters the bellhousing. Tie the line up to something or else you'll end up wearing brake fluid as it drips out.
6. Remove the trans mount bots (4) that hold the mount to the crossmember. BLOCK UP THE CROSSMEMBER WITH SOMETHING TO PREVENT IT FROM FALLING AFTER NEXT STEP.
7. Support the tranny and remove the crossmember bots/nuts. A little pre-treatment with some PB Blaster is a good idea because of the condition that your fasteners will be in. I ended up snapping off one of the crossmember to "frame" bolts, but the rest came out o.k. Lower the crossmember out of the way.
8. Good idea to index mark the crossmember for ease of re-installation. Trust me, even though it looks like a perfectly symmetrical piece of metal, IT IS NOT. It needs to go back in in the same orientation that it came out. It took me about an hour of trying to make all the bolt holes line up unsuccessfully before I figured this out.
9. (This is where the "block it up as high as safely possible" comes in). Carefully lower the engine/tranny as low as it will hang. Using a boatload of socket extensions, remove the two top bellhousing bolts from the engine. You may need a special female torx socket (size ??? someone can help w/ this?) for them if 4.0. My 2.5 had regular bolt head bolts, so it was easier.
10. Continue removing bellhousing bolts, and enjoy the wonderful concoction of various fasteners that were used for this purpose. I laid each bolt/nut/whatever out in the same pattern as the location on the bellhousing I removed them from so I wouldn't be so confused when I put it all back together. Leave at least one fastener snug until you are prepared to actually pull the tranny out.
11. When ready with trans jack or helping hand(s) in place, remove last bolt and gently seperate trans from engine. You may have to "wiggle" it a little, but once you feel it start to give, keep it steady, and gently pull it straight back until the input shaft clears the clutch housing. Lower it down and pull it out from under the vehicle.
It may be worth labeling the various lines/connectors so you don't get confused when you re-install. Also, you don't have to seperate the TC from the trans to do this, but it's lighter and easier to handle when you unbolt the trans and go to pull it. Some pictures are always very helpful also. I'm pretty sure I've missed something, but someone else will surely add to this post. Good luck!
HTH,
Jeff
