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Dealer Recommendations - Which of these can I do myself?

zeke2230

zeke2230

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Fort Dix, NJ
2000 with 89K just in for a coil strip replacement. Service guys recommended some repairs. Here's their list with prices:

90K service with Plugs - $335

Induction Service - carbon buildup? - $175

Replace Steering Stabilizer - $165

Front Balljoints - $780

Front Axle U-Joints - $405

Coolant Flush - $110

Flushing the coolant and Steering Stab seem the most user friendly - Do the others qualify and can I keep some of my own money in my pocket doing it?
 
The only one I wouldnt do myself is the balljoints although if I had the right tool(a good balljoint press) I would do those too...Having just done my front wheel bearings(took off the 3 bolts and they fell off god I love Arizona sometimes) I did the u joints at the same time I wasnt a big deal just pay attention to the details....

90k service is plugs and air filter change along with maybe a oil change the other stuff they just "inspect" and dont do crap about it except to charge you more for something else, do it yourself(plugs, air filter and if you want to change wires go with msd almost no resistance 65 bucks aint cheap but worth it for me)...

Cleaning your throttle body "IE Induction Service" means take off the throttle body get a new gaskget from dealer clean every where on the throttle body with sensor safe cleaner and toothbrush(used my wifes old one for that) :eek: ....Make it nice and shiny again get rid of all carbon replace gaskget and tighten bolts hook up sensors again pull batt cable for 5 minutes to reset comp and your good....

Stabilizer and coolant flush self explanatory just make sure to use a pickle fork to take off the stabilizer(Itll make life easier I bought one used it a hundred times already...Make sure you catch the coolant in something and dispose of it properly it is death to animals and they love the taste!!!!

good luck with all if you do it yourself you can save about 1000.00 and buy 1000 in tools that you can forever use again also get a factory service manual there great to have...
themud
 
zeke2230 said:
2000 with 89K just in for a coil strip replacement. Service guys recommended some repairs. Here's their list with prices:

90K service with Plugs - $335

Induction Service - carbon buildup? - $175

Replace Steering Stabilizer - $165

Front Balljoints - $780

Front Axle U-Joints - $405

Coolant Flush - $110

Flushing the coolant and Steering Stab seem the most user friendly - Do the others qualify and can I keep some of my own money in my pocket doing it?
Click to expand...

Coolant Flush is 65 at Midas, or do yourself. Steering Stablilzers are anywhere from 35-60 depending on which one and takes about 5mins to do.
Carbon build up is just a good cleaning of the throttlebody. I us Moper TB cleaner and get a new TB gasket at the parts counter. About 10-12 bucks
A full tune up will cost somewhere in the 60-100 dollar range. Plugs, wires, cap and rotor (if it has one)(haven't looked at the newer 4.0's). Axle ujoints cost about 15-20 a piece. (Two Needed) Kind of a pain in the butt to replace but if you have the tools, replace the ball joints as well. Just because your going to have have to remove the hub, brakes and what not to get the axle's out, might as well do the ball joints. But you will need a tool for it. most places rent them. Cost of ball joints is...I paid 80 for mine at a local place.

Cost of doing it yourself and screwing the dealer out of money...priceless
Juice
 
Kejtar said:
would the steering stabilizer be bad already?? that sounds odd...
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DOes it steer funny? do you get any sort of wobble??? To test it, I'd take it off and compress it and extend it like a shock and feel if it's smooth in operation (as in you don't feel jerkiness in movement) and then decide whether to keep it or not. I'm at 136+K miles on my 98 and I haven't touch the stabilizer yet.
 
Kejtar said:
DOes it steer funny? do you get any sort of wobble??? To test it, I'd take it off and compress it and extend it like a shock and feel if it's smooth in operation (as in you don't feel jerkiness in movement) and then decide whether to keep it or not. I'm at 136+K miles on my 98 and I haven't touch the stabilizer yet.
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I agree...my '98 has 140k on the clock and the stabilizer is OEM. No problems but I'm not lifted.

Seems like a lot of crap for very few miles. I think I need new u-joints also, but, un...I'll do it someday. :p

All of it (except ball joints) is VERY simple and totally easy. Don't mess with the dealer, just try it out. Not hard at all...
 
Not trying to hijack, but I have a question for the guys who are running MSD wires. Is there a part number for a well-fitting pre-made set, or do you guys recommend custom assembly? I have looked at MSD's website, but it seems a bit confusing on what one needs to buy for the 4.0.

You may have your thread back, now. Thanks.
 
cherokee89 said:
Not trying to hijack, but I have a question for the guys who are running MSD wires. Is there a part number for a well-fitting pre-made set, or do you guys recommend custom assembly? I have looked at MSD's website, but it seems a bit confusing on what one needs to buy for the 4.0.

You may have your thread back, now. Thanks.
Click to expand...
A lot of people recommend high performance mopar ones available from the dealer
 
Kejtar said:
A lot of people recommend high performance mopar ones available from the dealer
Click to expand...


Yeah, I know, but I want MSD. I don't mind making them myself, I was just wondering what has worked well for those who are running MSD wires.
 
pancake said:
I agree...my '98 has 140k on the clock and the stabilizer is OEM. No problems but I'm not lifted.

Seems like a lot of crap for very few miles. I think I need new u-joints also, but, un...I'll do it someday. :p

All of it (except ball joints) is VERY simple and totally easy. Don't mess with the dealer, just try it out. Not hard at all...
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I'd also question doing the two suspension related items on a schedule. I replaced my OEM steering stabilizer at about 200K (and 12 years old) and the original ball joints are still holding up fine at 308K, so you really just need to keep an eye on the performance of these parts and replace them when the condition dictates.
 
"I have looked at MSD's website, but it seems a bit confusing on what one needs to buy for the 4.0."

Just got the ones for a 95 xj they say they only fit certain years but let me ask you this same motor same firing order why cant you use the same wires I did from a 91 to a 95 to a 74 cj!!!!
Got mine from truckperformance.com for like 65 a set... :yelclap:
 
It's really hard to believe that the ball joints and u-joints are all shot at only 90K on a '00. I think you should get another opinion from a different service provider or do it all yourself if that's possible. Why not try an independant shop where the owner's livelyhood directly depends upon customer satisfaction.
 
150K on my 99.. I have done the normal services(plugs, wires, cap, rotor, Oil, Filter) Coolant flush(only cause of an accident that crushed the radiator, and once to upgrade to 3 core)... Dealers just try and soak ya! :twak:
 
themud said:
"I have looked at MSD's website, but it seems a bit confusing on what one needs to buy for the 4.0."

Just got the ones for a 95 xj they say they only fit certain years but let me ask you this same motor same firing order why cant you use the same wires I did from a 91 to a 95 to a 74 cj!!!!
Got mine from truckperformance.com for like 65 a set... :yelclap:
Click to expand...


Cool. I will check them out. I can't help you on the question about the wires, though. Seems to me that it should work fine. After all, all they do is deliver the juice to the plug. They don't care what vehicle they are on. I would say if the ends fit, and the wires are correct length, then it will work. I may be off here, but I don't see how.
 
At the prices quoted by the dealer you might consider doing the jobs yourself even if you don't have all the tools. If you're interested in doing mechanics and don't lose more than the going labor rate by using your own time, go out and buy the tools as you need them, and by comparison with those prices they will pay for themselves the first time you use them with plenty left over. Some tools, such as ball joint presses, can be rented too. The Ball joints are a PITA, but they're not terribly expensive to buy, and 780 bucks will buy a nice name-brand balljoint press that will last the rest of your life and double as a universal joint press.

The ball joints on an XJ shouldn't go bad that soon unless something is wrong, or perhaps if they were never lubed. 200K miles is a more reasonable life expectancy. I'd get a second opinion.

I wouldn't be surprised if the u-joints are bad at this mileage, though. Here in Vermont I don't get much more than 50 thousand miles to a set. But again, if you have the time and inclination, the joints themselves only cost something like 15 bucks apiece. The Dealer is planning to charge 375 dollars for labor for a job which even on a rustbucket should only take a couple of hours per side, and which can be done with standard tools (and even easier if you went ahead and got a ball joint press:)).
 
I don't understand all the discussion about plug wires. My 2000 XJ has the coils at the plugs. There are no wires, or distributor cap for that matter. The tuneup should be plugs and that's about it.
 
MoFo said:
I don't understand all the discussion about plug wires. My 2000 XJ has the coils at the plugs. There are no wires, or distributor cap for that matter. The tuneup should be plugs and that's about it.
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pre 2K XJ's have a distributor and wires :D
 
Just want to say thanks for all the input, insight, and mostly the encouragement to just do it. I don't mind pulling stuff apart, but, some of the projects will need to wait until spring the way the weather's going in Mass right now... Pats v. Titans is projected at -15 degrees - a little nasty for trying to hold on to metal.

Any recommendations on plugs? I'm only getting about 17.5 mpg - with a stock engine... seems I did about the same on my 88XJ with 200k...

Hoping the induction cleaning and plugs will improve that condition.
 
sounds like the shop tech just looked around and came up with a shooping list.. if all that stuff was bad they would given you a hard time leaving with the truck for "saftey" reasons... by a FSM and do it yourself 1 item at a time.... all easily done with basic tools in any driveway... as far as the spark plugs are concerned, i use only AC or champion... do NOT waste money on the fancy BOSCH plugs.. multi-million$$ ad campaigns make 'em look like they are the bast ever.. i had such good results with BOSCH in a ford ranger that i try them in everything i've owned since then and there is no difference and they actually made my 2.5L in my TJ run rough in the real cold... NGK is good as well but i havent run them in a Jeep...
mike
 
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