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Quickly please, 8.25 or 8.8?

OT

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Jensen, UT
Better deal for the money?

8.25 out of 2000 XJ with 30,000 miles for $200.00 drum to drum.

8.8 brand new for $425 caliper to caliper but I still would have to get perches and shock mounts. In the end it'd probably cost $550 to $600 total.

man the more I type the better the 8.25 looks

Thanks, Terry
 
rockcrawlinxj said:
Better deal for the money?

8.25 out of 2000 XJ with 30,000 miles for $200.00 drum to drum.

8.8 brand new for $425 caliper to caliper but I still would have to get perches and shock mounts. In the end it'd probably cost $550 to $600 total.

man the more I type the better the 8.25 looks

Thanks, Terry

you got to tell us more what size of tire are you planning on running
 
geo78 said:
I think you just answered your question assuming you are running 33's or smaller now?


True. Thanks for that! Although as we all know, plans do change and I want to have a good axle that'll last if I it does take longer than expected. However, it will be stronger than the D35 anyway.

Not to mention resale value.

8.25 it is...................I guess.
 
An 8.25? Is that an upgrade? Why not keep looking for a D44 rear? Remember those things that hold your axles in on most D35s? They're called C-Clips & both the 8.25 & the 8.8 have them.

Of the two the 8.8 is stronger & you can bolt on Exploder discs.
 
vintagespeed said:
An 8.25? Is that an upgrade? Why not keep looking for a D44 rear? Remember those things that hold your axles in on most D35s? They're called C-Clips & both the 8.25 & the 8.8 have them.

Of the two the 8.8 is stronger & you can bolt on Exploder discs.
Well, I suppose I've read 30 plus threads by now about this and so far YOU are the only one to question whether an 8.25 is more stout than a D35. Also, D44s are hard to come by in these parts so they're expensive, much more than $200. And from what I've seen, it'll be ok with 35s. Besides, I bought it 40 minutes ago so your late, Hence the "quickly" part. Unfortunately we can't all have such "rad" setups as yours and it just seems that you mostly knock other's ideas if they don't resemble yours. But thanks for posting anyway.
 
rockcrawlinxj said:
Well, I suppose I've read 30 plus threads by now about this and so far YOU are the only one to question whether an 8.25 is more stout than a D35. Also, D44s are hard to come by in these parts so they're expensive, much more than $200. And from what I've seen, it'll be ok with 35s. Besides, I bought it 40 minutes ago so your late, Hence the "quickly" part. Unfortunately we can't all have such "rad" setups as yours and it just seems that you mostly knock other's ideas if they don't resemble yours. But thanks for posting anyway.

Ouch. I try to be objective, but sometimes these posts are a little silly. Most of the guys with smaller rigs think that anyone who's dumped time & money into their pit is an a-hole, so I'm used to it.

I didn't question whether the D35 was stronger than the 8.25, I dont think anyone outlaying cash to do an axle/gear/locker swap should throw money away on a c-clip axle. I've thrown lots of cash away upgrading multiple times & it's just stupid. If your target tire size is 35" then why build an axle that can only barely handle the tire? Why build it twice, or three times? :looney:

Just my opinion, call me what you will.
 
That was a much easier post to read than your first. Thanks for the input but I'm sure I'm not the only one around that's willing to buy an 8.25 to replace a D35, so I'll be able to sell it when I go full width, Looney.
 
Terry,

I am in the process of installing a Ford 8.8 under my 1999 XJ. If you know someone who can do the welding for you it is not a bad project. You can get spring perches from a stealership for about $10 a pair. The guy that is doing my welding said he could quickly make the shock mounts from scraps, or you can use the ones from your old axle.

Most of the expense (aside from the axle purchace) has been doing the brakes. I bought my axle from a salvage yard. It had been sitting on the ground so the rotors and pads were completely shot. Plus the emergency brake shoes had completely locked up. And they cut the brake hose when they pulled the axle. Fortunately explorer brake parts are cheap but still, rotors, pads, e-brake shoes, and left side brake hose. It adds up.

You might also be able to get the u-bolt to pinion flange if you ask for it. Try to if you can, it will save you $40.

-Brian

BTW: As an outside observer I saw nothing in VintageSpeed's responses that was out of line or deserving of being flamed. Tone is tough to read, I get in trouble with that all of the time. I recommend you relax and assume everyone is trying to help. Making the tread look like a personal battle or flame war will only keep people from posting what you do want to hear.


rockcrawlinxj said:
Well, I suppose I've read 30 plus threads by now about this and so far YOU are the only one to question whether an 8.25 is more stout than a D35. Also, D44s are hard to come by in these parts so they're expensive, much more than $200. And from what I've seen, it'll be ok with 35s. Besides, I bought it 40 minutes ago so your late, Hence the "quickly" part. Unfortunately we can't all have such "rad" setups as yours and it just seems that you mostly knock other's ideas if they don't resemble yours. But thanks for posting anyway.

rockcrawlinxj said:
That was a much easier post to read than your first. Thanks for the input but I'm sure I'm not the only one around that's willing to buy an 8.25 to replace a D35, so I'll be able to sell it when I go full width, Looney.
 
BrianJr said:
Terry,

I am in the process of installing a Ford 8.8 under my 1999 XJ. If you know someone who can do the welding for you it is not a bad project. You can get spring perches from a stealership for about $10 a pair. The guy that is doing my welding said he could quickly make the shock mounts from scraps, or you can use the ones from your old axle.

Most of the expense (aside from the axle purchace) has been doing the brakes. I bought my axle from a salvage yard. It had been sitting on the ground so the rotors and pads were completely shot. Plus the emergency brake shoes had completely locked up. And they cut the brake hose when they pulled the axle. Fortunately explorer brake parts are cheap but still, rotors, pads, e-brake shoes, and left side brake hose. It adds up.

You might also be able to get the u-bolt to pinion flange if you ask for it. Try to if you can, it will save you $40.

-Brian

BTW: As an outside observer I saw nothing in VintageSpeed's responses that was out of line or deserving of being flamed. Tone is tough to read, I get in trouble with that all of the time. I recommend you relax and assume everyone is trying to help. Making the tread look like a personal battle or flame war will only keep people from posting what you do want to hear.

Hey Brian. I hear ya on the 8.8. The welding isn't a problem, and the axle is brand new from the manufacturer (never been installed) with everything from caliper to caliper already on it except perches and shock mounts. It's just that that's an extra $300 that I can spend on something else.

I'm gonna be going full size next year so longevity isn't a concern for me, I just need a replacement for the D35. If this was a permanent swap then I'd definitely go with an 8.8 or D44 or even stronger shafts in the 8.25.

And as for the flaming, I'm only going by what I see as an outside observer on other's threads. I notice the same condescending manner on those to. I just don't need that in advice to me. Don't need anyone to make me feel any stupider than I already do. Besides, I already know D44s are better as I know D35s are crap, I was only asking about the 8.25 and 8.8. Ya gotta admit though, his second post was a little less smartassey than his first. Thanks for the cooldown Brian.
 
rockcrawlinxj said:
I'm gonna be going full size next year so longevity isn't a concern for me, I just need a replacement for the D35. If this was a permanent swap then I'd definitely go with an 8.8 or D44 or even stronger shafts in the 8.25.

EDIT: LOL - forgot you already bought the axle - disregard the rest of this post :)


Since this is temporary I would go with a 29-spline 8.25 and do NOTHING else to it until you go full-width. If you have to regear I wouldn't buy an axle at all unless you can do the set-up and get gears for free. No reason to waste money on any axle just to get rid of it.

If it were me, I would drive the d35 until it brakes than go full width.

my 0.02.
 
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