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Tcase drop

P

ps13

NAXJA Forum User
Location
austin, tx
can someone tell me how to install a transfer case drop. Mine came with no directions yet I would really like to do it. Thank you for helping me out.
 
Real easy job.
- Use floor jack to take wieght off crossmember
- Remove crossmember bolts
- Lower crossmember just enough to get spacers in
- Jack tranny/tcase back up
- Bolt together

That should be it.

MATT
 
Each side has 1 bolt and 1 stud with a nut. The studs are a pain to get out because the nut comes off and the stud is left there, but it's too short for a drop spacer. Best way IMO is to weld the nut to the stud, or have a shop do it before you even start. Should be VERY cheap at a shop or free if you know them well.
 
xj92 said:
Each side has 1 bolt and 1 stud with a nut. The studs are a pain to get out because the nut comes off and the stud is left there, but it's too short for a drop spacer. Best way IMO is to weld the nut to the stud, or have a shop do it before you even start. Should be VERY cheap at a shop or free if you know them well.
Click to expand...
To remove the stud, just thread a second nut on it and turn the first off against the second.
 
family XJ said:
For the studs I just heated with blue torch and used vice grips. Took all of 10 minutes. Good luck
Click to expand...
I suggest using the 2 nuts like JNJ said, if that doesn't work then use the vise grips. I have know that vise grips just to slip and tear up the threads. Heat is very helpful, and I can't recal if I could get some PB blaster in ther or not.
 
ChuckD said:
I suggest using the 2 nuts like JNJ said, if that doesn't work then use the vise grips. I have know that vise grips just to slip and tear up the threads. Heat is very helpful, and I can't recal if I could get some PB blaster in ther or not.
Click to expand...

Isn't there another nut on the top of the stud inside the uni-body? I looked down that little hole from the front floorboard and it looked like another nut on top of that stud. If so how do you keep that nut from turning? I guess it could have been mud around the stud? :laugh3:
 
There is a nut or something it threads into on the other side that should be welded in place. I didn't realize there was enough room to fix a second nut on the stud, that would have been easier than breaking out the welder.
 
I used two pair of vise grips. One pair I placed on the stub as tight as I could get it and locked it down. Use the second pair to tighten the adjustment nut on the first pair as tight as you can. Then using a hammer tap the vise grips attached to the stud to loosen. Worked like a champ got both of them out with no problems.
 
krh9848 said:
I used two pair of vise grips. One pair I placed on the stub as tight as I could get it and locked it down. Use the second pair to tighten the adjustment nut on the first pair as tight as you can. Then using a hammer tap the vise grips attached to the stud to loosen. Worked like a champ got both of them out with no problems.
Click to expand...


I attempted to do that and it slid on me. I was ready to go outside and do a 10 minute fix on the jeep w/ the 1" tcase drop and of cource... working on a damn jeep. I see that stud sticking out and i'm like.. dubya tee eff mate.
 
It often works to get the vise-grips on the stud and tighten it slightly and give it a small upward whack with a LFH (smaller cousin of the BFH). You don't want to bust the tackweld that holds the nut in place inside the frame...just break the grip that it has on the stud.

Once the stud is out, replace it and the other bolt with M10-1.50 bolts...about 35-50mm long. Don't forget the anti-sieze.
 
ya, im having absolutely no luck getting that stud out. I've been trying that double nut technique.. but for some reason all i'm doing is locking the 2 nuts together then I try and turn the top one and it just moves the bottom one off with it and they just walk up and down the stud? And the stud itself.. inside the frame is it a bolt w/ a head? Or is it just a stud that I am attempted basically turn out of the frame and down?
 
no, it's just a stud in the frame on a nut welded there, so yeah, lol, guess there is a nut in there, but none that you can get to. you try heating it? you might just have to soak it in pb blaster for a few days then try again, but dont, whatever you do, break it off in the frame, 'cuz that sucks getting it out.
 
53guy said:
no, it's just a stud in the frame on a nut welded there, so yeah, lol, guess there is a nut in there, but none that you can get to. you try heating it? you might just have to soak it in pb blaster for a few days then try again, but dont, whatever you do, break it off in the frame, 'cuz that sucks getting it out.
Click to expand...


PB is cheaper than buying a torche. So thats step one. just soak that damn thing every day and try again in a few days.
 
Creighton said:
PB is cheaper than buying a torche. So thats step one. just soak that damn thing every day and try again in a few days.
Click to expand...
I would have to agree. Having heard all about PB Blaster all over this BBS, I finally bought some. Every nut/bolt I couldn't get off has come right off. Now this is on a fairly non corroded '01. But prior to the bath in PB, the nuts/bolts wouldn't budge. Buy it, try it!
HTH
 
welp, I dunno how the hell yall did it. But ive soaked it in BP blaster for 4 or 5 days (soaking it every day w/ the tcase mount off so it can get up in there good) and ive tried the double nut technique and the vise grip job. That f%$king stud is not moving. I'm just gonna pay a shop that has the tools to get it out. Unless the hair up my arse makes me wanna go out and buy a nice drill and bit set.
 
never mind that this thread was made:
12-19-2003
 
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