ok,3rd try, check out my heavy duty rocker replacements

Hey I think I solved the red X problem,lemme know what y'all think....

Great Job!!

I've been looking at a few idea like that and yours is probably the cleanest I've seen yet.

What size tubing is that?

Is only welded to the pinchseam (or where it was) and upper cut portion?

Have you tried jacking off them yet?

details

I cut out the entire bottom of the rocker, there is an 1/8" x 2" x 5 ft strip that is welded to the vertical part of the sill, it is welded along the top and bottom edge, then I ran a bunch of 1 1/8" holes thru the unibody and the 1/8in strip,


on this side I cut thru the unibody only,then after this pic was taken I drilled thu the 1/8in strip..on the other side I drilled all the way thru in one shot,then I welded the remaining top of the rocker to the 2x6x3/16 tube, welded the bottom edge that I could get to and then welded the tube to the strip and the unibody where I drilled all those holes...

I lifted it up on the far edge of the rocker and i have lifted the entire jeep up with the hoist, IT's solid!

raceready said:

Hey I think I solved the red X problem,lemme know what y'all think....

Click to expand...

Do you really want to know?

They look great....the workmanship is very good, but for rocks they don't stick out far enough. This is a very typical downfall of rock rails, the designs mostly consider rocks underneath, and don't allow enough for keeping rocks out of the doors.

The other thing I see is that they might extend too far to the rear, depending on what size tires you end up with down the road. You could end up trimming everything away from the front edge at the bottom of the wheel well, and your rails will be in the way. I know you went through some trouble to make that nice notch in the rails to wrap around the flare, but you'd be better off shortening it up some there. It does nothing to have the rail that close to the wheel well anyway, so it's mostly for looks.

You asked.......

thanks for the critique

Since this is to be the wife's jeep and daily driver, I wanted to balance out the extreme with the practical, I don't plan to run anything larger than 31s it. I too thought about trimming it back to end before the flare but decided against it. I felt that it was important to tie in as much of the rear qtr as I could. This jeep was hit light in the rear before I bought it and you can see that the qtr was moved fwrd at least 1/8 of an inch on that side. The other concern I had was the cantilever forces on what was left of the original rocker.and lower side of the unibody, I didn't want to hang the rail out so far that a rock would try and twist the tube which won't twist, and try and pull the side of the unibody away from the floor. When I build my next jeep, I'll probably go more extreme on the width. thanks again for your words

joel

Re: thanks for the critique

maybe I missed what are the dimension of the box tubing?

2"x6" ?

1/8"? 3/16"?

2x6x3/16 by almost 5 feet...

but for rocks they don't stick out far enough. This is a very typical downfall of rock rails, the designs mostly consider rocks underneath, and don't allow enough for keeping rocks out of the

For rocks they are fine, clad the bottom of the doors with alum or steel,

Nothing worse than getting hung up on an obstacle cuz you got massive rocker rails that stick out 3 to 4 ",

I went to 1/4" steel wrapped around the rockers and bolted to the floor underneath, ran 4.5 with it and was great, sledgehammer, axle alley, lower terminator, the trails where much easier without the extra ground clearance loss of 1" to 2" and the extra width.

Gman what do you run on yours?

xjnation said:

but for rocks they don't stick out far enough. This is a very typical downfall of rock rails, the designs mostly consider rocks underneath, and don't allow enough for keeping rocks out of the

For rocks they are fine, clad the bottom of the doors with alum or steel,

Nothing worse than getting hung up on an obstacle cuz you got massive rocker rails that stick out 3 to 4 ",

I went to 1/4" steel wrapped around the rockers and bolted to the floor underneath, ran 4.5 with it and was great, sledgehammer, axle alley, lower terminator, the trails where much easier without the extra ground clearance loss of 1" to 2" and the extra width.

Gman what do you run on yours?

Click to expand...

I've never had a problem with rock rails sticking out too far, unless they're rediculously far out. it's not just keeping the rocks off of your lower doors, where it's easy to put some steel or aluminum plate for protection, but it's the middle of the door that takes a beating. I've also bent my doors even with the diamond plate on them, so it always good to have rock rails that stick out a couple of inches at least.

I do believe in thin rock rails. Ground clearance is still important and a thick rock rail can hang you up. Cutting into the rocker is a good idea, because you can add a very strong rail with little ground clearance loss. My rock rails are made from 1"x4" tubing, with an additional piece of 1x4 on the outside edge going up at a 45 degree angle. The angled piece adds a considerable amount of rigidity to the rail, it sticks out further, and gives a nice surface to pivot around or slide down. Here's the best pic I could find of the rails.

sweet rig gman, I was originally planning to clad the doors just like you did with diamond plate steel, but that was more due to the RUST issue than the protection issue...lol (and this was also before my initiation into 4 wheeling) kind of forgot about the idea when I replaced the doors with something more soild. Thans for reminding me!

Joel

I'm plannning to do a write up with plans on my rockers