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Clutch pedal question

Kejtar

Kejtar

PostMaster General
NAXJA Member
Location
Westminster, SoCal
OK... so I picked up my jeep today from the shop where they replaced the clutch, and as the guy handed me the keys, he said that the pedal will be soft/deep and that will adjust itself in a week or so... does that sound right? Anyways, the pedal is soft and deep and it kind of is irritating...... doesn't feel right... now if it is going to get better I am willing to live with it for now... but if it's going get "better" by me getting used to it, I need to pay the man a visit :D Now on the other hand if it's an easy adjustement deal that is not much hassle and I can do myself, please post instructions and I will do it as leaving my jeep for service is always a hassle...

Kejtar
 
Hmm - try bleeding the clutch. "Soft & Deep" isn't something I like in my hydraulics, and will likely be caused by air in the system (kinda like when brakes go soft because they get air in the lines...)

Yep - brake out the vacuum bleed kit and get ready to swear at that shop for half-assing the job. I find German and Russian to be good swearing languages - for maximum effect and impact...

5-90
 
Uh, wait a minute....... Remi, doesn't your 98 have an EXTERNAL slave?

If it does, there is zero reason for it to go soft and deep, as the shop would not have to break in to the hydraulics at all.

I'd be suspicious that someone removed too much material from the flywheel.

The clutches on an AX15 are, to the best of my knowledge, not manually adjustable.

Edit: I replaced my clutch 3 years (in February) and put over 60,000 miles on it. I did replace (not resurface) the flywheel, and the clutch was not spongy at all. In May, I replaced the disk, pressure plate and throwout bearing on general principles as I had the engine and trans torn apart. Again, on reassembly, I had a good pedal feel.
 
Cutting too much off the flywheel still won't make the pedal soft - just deep.

A soft pedal will generally be caused by one of two things - either an air intrusion into the system or the pressure springs going south. One can hope that a new cover will have decent springs, ergo check for air in the hydraulics. Just because they don't actually have to open the system doesn't mean those droids will actually know that, so ASSUME NOTHING,

What happends when you ASS U ME?

5-90
 
Well.. I just looked into the FSM and there is no way to bleed?? Or at least they didn't talk about it... all they mentioned was that it's a factory sealed system...

I don't know if what I have is spongy action. I press the clutch and I feel it working and then suddendly it has no resistance and my foot falls through... I think this describes it better...
 
Get down around your slave cylinder, and examine it for a bleed nipple - similar to what you'll find on the brake calipers and cylinders. It should work the same way as the brake setup - but using a vacuum bleeder will be easier and work better anyhow...

5-90
 
5-90 said:
Get down around your slave cylinder, and examine it for a bleed nipple - similar to what you'll find on the brake calipers and cylinders. It should work the same way as the brake setup - but using a vacuum bleeder will be easier and work better anyhow...

5-90
Click to expand...

IIRC I don't think I have seen any nipples last time I ventured there :D Btw, I just spoke with another guy here that has a 97 stick and he just did his clutch as well, and he said that for a week his clutch felt all funky like that but it gradually got better.... hmmmm anyways... Saturday I'm going on a nipple hunt :D
 
Kejtar said:
Saturday I'm going on a nipple hunt
Click to expand...

I always had best luck doing that on Friday nights... :D

Back on topic...You're saying that it feels fine then jumps to the bottom? How does the clutch work when it's doing it's drop out problem? I only ask because back in my stick shift days I had some master and slave cylinder issues, it worked like that when my master failed, it'd work fine up to a point, then just go to the floor, but I would also gradiually lose the clutch (make it engage). You might put the clutch to the floor, throw it in gear, and sit there for a minute and see if the car starts wanting to move, it'd suck if the hydro system went out right on t op of it..but..well..brown stuff happens.. :)

Sequoia
 
I'd be careful cracking into that hydraulic. Caveat: I've never had any problems with mine.

IIRC, it's a self-bleeding system. There's a screw on the slave that looks like a bleed, but it breaks a seal in the line somehow.

I'll check the FSM when I get home tonight.
 
AX15 flywheel.

Just to let you guys know, I replaced my clutch disk, pressure plate, and slave/throwout bearing(internal type) in September of last year.
I had my flywheel resurface because that's what you always do when replacing a clutch, right? Well at the time I didn't know I wasn't supposed to till I had already had it done.
Anyway, over a year later and 20,000 miles I have had zero issues with it. The clutch engages where it always has and works flawlessly.

Jes
 
never herd of that before. i used to work at an auto shop and that kind of stuff i wouldnt let go its to big of a safty hazard. in my opinion i would find a differnt shop to get your work done at that is too simple of a job to screw up.
 
The 2000 FSM says the clutch slave and master cylinder are serviced as an assembly and are pre-filled. The diagrams do not show a bleeder and the install procedure does not say to bleed. It doesn't say not to bleed -- but it does say the system "should not" require bleeding during its service life.

This is a quantum change from the '88 internal slave on my '88, which does require bleeding. Dunno how they do it, but I guess it is intended to be non-bleeding/self-bleeding.
 
don't wanna jinx anything, but it looks like it's firming up.. it still feels a bit odd, but then again I only put about 100 miles on it and drove it only for one day (instead of 2 weeks as the guys told me)... In any case, I will keep you guys updated...
 
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