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Dana-35 - How Big of a Problem?

BrianJr

NAXJA Forum User
I have a '99 XJ with a Dana-35 rear axle. Before I say anything else I have read the flame wars about 'which axle is best'. I am not looking for opinions about what axle to switch too.

What I want to know is how critical is it that I replace the dana-35 with something stronger (without worrying about what that is). Basically, at what point does this axle become a problem?

I know it does fine with 235x75's as I've been all over with this tiny tires without problems. However, I am planning on going up to 32" tires after I lift and I am concerned that I will have crossed the line. At what point is this axle going to start having trouble? For what it is worth I don't think of myself as being hard on my XJ.

I am especially interested in hearing about people who have actually wheeled in XJs that had this axle.

Thanks
-Brian
'99 XJ
 
Brian,

Hope this is ok but I haven't wheeled one for a real long time with a 35 but back then there wasn't an easy fix for it as now a days.

IMO
32" tires is the limit for this axle for medium core wheeling. If your brain and foot stay connected then you'll be fine. Just remember what you have and wheel accordingly.

mark
orgs mfg
 
IMHO.......

And I wheel with one now. Is that the breaking point will be a locker. I wheeled with the D35 with 31's and locked and it was fine behind my 4 popper and 3.73 gears. I broke it when I went to 33's! But I believe that open it would not have happened. You lock any axle and it can be broken easier then if it is open. JMHO!
 
hard question to answer.

the responces can only be subjective.

i think the main ingredient that tells us what the dana 35 is "capable" of is driving style.

without knowing how you wheel, and over what terrain, the answer is even harder to obtain.

from personal experience, I mounted 32's on my 35, and at the time, my driving style was very moderate.

the axle was stock with a factory trac-loc.

I later added a no-slip

I never had a problem.

hope this helps.
 
Beezil is right about the subjective thing and the driving style thing. The feedback you get is going to be a mixed bag.

I've run a Dana 35 on the trail for the past 8 years without a problem. I currently run a 4.0L w/ 3.73 gears, 32" tires, Powertrax No-Slip, and an Atlas 4.3:1 transfer case.

Know that it breaks, and drive accordingly, but certainly don't live in fear of the Dana 35.
 
Mine died with a "super Kit" with 35's on it pretty fast. I bent the tube, causing it to come apart on the highway. Hope this helps. Dave
 
there is a guy in my club who wheels a d35 locked with 35" mickey tompson tires (they look equivelent to a 33") he is hard as hell on it. he also has a anti-wrap bar and it's trussed.
 
I wheeled my D35 regularly in Moab for 5 years, running 31-32's. I eventually "radiaused" the housing into a boomerang shape, a result of running on slickrock with a 5 speed and open diffs.....IMO. I'm not hard on the throttle when I wheel, I think the ultimate traction of sandstone and the immediate torque application of a manual trans will distribute enough shock loads to eventually find the D35's weak pionts. Having said that, I never broke an axle shaft in 5 years wheeling and agree that 32's are the limit.
 
i know you guys dont care about yj's but this is a picture of his yj with 35's on his d35. and this is pretty "hard" for a d35.

IMG_1110.JPG
 
Some guys could break a D60 with 30" tires.....others can make a 35C last for ever with 33's. It is all in your style, where you wheel, how much skinny pedal you use.
IMHO....Run it till it breaks..then replace.

Rev
 
Breakage

If I were to go to 33s with a Dana 35 and broke an axle I'm assuming that the axle would slid out. How does one get home or even out of the woods after this happens???

Robert
 
Re: Breakage

XJWheelie said:
If I were to go to 33s with a Dana 35 and broke an axle I'm assuming that the axle would slid out. How does one get home or even out of the woods after this happens???

Robert

Carry spares and all the necessary tools and fluids to replace an axle shaft on the trail.

Jes
 
I've been running a D35 with 32s for three years now. Been to Moab 3 or 4 times, Rubicon, etc. The Rubicon trip and last Moab trip were with a locker back there. Haven't broke it yet, but I do carry spare parts. I also don't let it bounce either. If it starts that, I shut it down ASAP. I agree with others, it's driving style. You can't wheel the piss out of a D35, but if you treat it like a D35... you will be OK on 32s. I am gonna truss mine and keep running it until I can afford to lock and regear an 8.8.
 
In my ZJ, before I swapped the 8.8 in, I welded the PISS outta the spider gears, just for shits-and-giggles. This was on 35s, it never broke. I actually tried to break it, but couldnt.

BUT, I have broken a 35 before, 32s, LOTS of wheel bouncing, spinning, burning of tires, etc. It didn't snap under the torque load, but once I got traction, BANG! It went.

I know have a 91' XJ on 31s and will be locking the 35 with a lockrite. I know how to govern the skinny pedal and what NOT to do.

As stated above, if you are easy on her, know your limitations, and dont act like a dumbass, you will be ok....

peace
TOEHEAD
 
D35 - problems?

I was in the same dilema as you, until a few weeks ago....
I have a 2000XJ w/D35 rr axle, 31 x 10.5 x 15" and 3" lift. I haven't wheeled regularly since I had my CJ5 some 20 yrs ago :( now I want to get things in order (armor, gearing, diffs, retrieval, etc) before heading out and embarrasing myself. My last push is a big one...SYE, TW driveshaft, fr & rr 4.10 gears, and LS diffs. :repair: I know lotta $$$! :eek:
I don't like to do things twice.... I thought that I would keep the D35 and truss it and maybe install alloy axleshafts? Still has a week carrier and C-clips that can "go their own way" :D
I saw some recent posts about Ford Explorer 8.8" axles and how strong they were (rated stronger than D44). Only downfall is that they are C-clip axleshafts :( ...but they also have rear discs :D that I'm told will hold the axle in place until you can get to a safe place to fix it ;) . Not to mention that rear disc conversion kits can cost over $500 to get that extra braking capacity ;)
So I went to www.car-part.com and found a 8.8" with 4.10's, LS diff, rear discs, and only 12Kmiles for $350! :cool: The rear LS alone would of cost me that much! All I have to do is reweld the spring perches, run some new brake lines at the axle, add some 5/8" spacers on the wheel face, adapt the E-brake lines, and tell Tom Woods to make the rear DS connection a flanged one to match the pinion on the 8.8".
It's probably a wash (moneywise) between regearing the D35 and installing the 8.8"....But when I consider that I now have rear discs and a MUCH STRONGER axle...I feel I made a wise decision. :sunshine: Remember, I don't like to have to pay twice to make it right!
I don't know how hard or how often I'm gonna wheel my DD XJ :dunno: But, when I decide to "stomp on skinny" or tow several thousand pounds, or just get plain stupid ! :greensmok :gee: I don't want that "little voice of reasoning" whining to me "Stop you'll hurt it!":gag:
That's my .02...
Make that .22!
BLUTO :)
 
Consideration of how you wheel is a major factor in the life of the D35 axle, as an easy foot and few rocks seem to preserve the D35 life.

Other factors impacting D35 life:

D35 housings and tubes flex, and then grenade the spider & side gears or the axle shaft at the c-clip notch, due to the resulting shaft misalignment inside the carrier. Install a axle truss (just make sure the axle housing is straight ;) before sparking up the welder).

Two D35's exist: the early (84-90) non-c-clip, and the 91-02 c-clip. The failure rate is different between the two.

The non-c-clip version is preferred because there is no c-clip notch in the axle to worry about misalignment problems. C-clip versions without a truss have a high report of failures (even with upgraded Superior Super-35 shafts). If you can swap in a non-c-clip version it is a (minor) upgrade (and install a truss).

Bring spare axle shafts, if you wheel hard.
 
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