Let's see...
I replaced the main battery cables (battery-starter and battery-ground) with cables made from 2/0 Welder cable, as well as the cable for the alternator output. I also moved the power distribution from the post on the start relay (I've got Renix XJ's) to an aftermarket brass distribution post from Gall's Public Safety Supply, and ran 2/0 to that.
I also used a 2 gage cable to tie the alternator case to a chassis ground, and got rid of the aluminum braided engine-firewall ground and made a new one with one of my 2/0 offcuts, so no more ground trouble there, either.
And, I added a direct battery-chassis ground, with the rest of my 2/0 welder cable.
I like welder cable because it is flexible, easy to handle, and will take anything the underhood environment can throw at it! Figure on paying about $2/foot for 2/0 gage, although that size is overkill (you can use 1/0 or 0 without any problem, and even going to a 2 gage is probably fine. I just happened to have a big chunk of 2/0 from a prior job.)
You will need to get a crimper for cable that size - a "hammer-driven" tool will run $25-30 and can be powered by a good heavy claw or ball pein hammer, but I use a 4# drilling hammer because I have one. Make sure to put Ox-Gard inside the lug before you insert the cable, and I also suggest using heat shrink tubing to cover the lug shank and seal it to the cable insulation for added reliability. Keep these cables off of the exhaust and out of moving parts, and they should last forever! I went with overkill on all my primary cables for two reasons -
1) I already had the cable.
2) I've got some heavily modified parts (180A alternator, high-speed starter. Built by my local shop for a nominal fee...)
Go to a welding supply shop for the cable, lugs, and crimper. I haven't measured, but 25' of cable should take care of just about everything with some left over.
5-90