3" on a budget help

Hi all,
Little history. I've upgraded my stock 98 XJ with an upcountry suspension about a year ago. My buddy was going to a 3" lift and gave me his old stuff in return for helping put his new lift on.

Now here's the dilemma. The shocks are now gone and since I have to replace them anyway I figure why not add another 1.5" while I'm down there? I have roughly $600 to do it with so here's my parts list.

1 Rusty's Off Road X-fer case lowering kit
1 RE Extended Rear Brake line
4 Bilstein Shocks
1 Teraflex Budget boost (coil spacers and 1.5" shackles)
2 Rocky Road Outfitters Front Shock adapters (bar pin eliminators)
I'm also using the rear sway bar to create a couple of bar pin eliminators for the rear.

Have I left anything out? Remember I'm trying to keep it under $600 and I'm going to do all the work myself.

TIA

You said rear brake lines, no front ones? T-case lowering kits work for some people, are horible for others. You might want to anticipate vibes and hope they don't come. Other than that your plan sounds good.

Front Brake line plans

The front brake lines have a loop built into them from the factory. I plan on just taking it out and then I should have no problems with reach with 3" of lift.

As for the rear brake lines. Do I need to buy 2 brake line extentions or just 1? I know that the drivers side rear is really short and without the swar bar it will be too short at full droop. I'm not sure about the other side though. I came up with this opinion from Rusty's 3" kit that only includes 1 brake line bracket. Am I wrong and should I buy 2 extentions?

Thanks for the input.

From all the talk, going to a 3" on a '98, you will want a SYE (slip yoke eliminator) on your transfer case, or you most likely will get bad vibrations.

I think the goood Tom Woods kits run about $450 ( I think that includes a new drive shaft), you can get by for cheaper with a hack & tap.

Anthropy,
Thanks for the feedback. I've got a friend with a 2001 and 3" lift with the X-fer case lowering kit that works for him. I know that all XJ's handle it differently but I'm hoping that the X-fer case lowering kit and the rear shackles will keep the angle reasonable. That was one of the reasons I chose longer shackles as opposed to AAL or new spring packs.
When I choose to go larger I will be able to reuse the spacers and shackles (if I want) with new springs or whatever. When I go larger and invest more into it I plan to get SYE. I've heard nothing but good things about the Tom Woods kits.

You didn't mention anything about an Adj Trackbar, I would definitely put that on any list.

I've thought about that

I thought about Rusty's Adj Track bar but after doing some research I've heard that the stock track bar isn't that far off at 3". What I've heard is that the front axle may be visablely shifted but it doesn't affect drivablity. Is this wrong? Can anyone with experience offer advice? I'm mainly concerned with drivability and due to budget I'd rather not if I don't absolutely have to.

Thanks

Rough .....

1 line extension for the rear is all you need.You might want some DQs and LCAs to take advantage of all the flex you can get. I still have my 3" kit LCAs & DQs if you are interested PM me... I was using the stock tracbar too....

When I ran a 3" kit on mine (composite kit with all sorts of parts) here's what I needed/had on my 2000...

Lift kit: 3" composite BB (actual 3.25" front 2.75" rear) - combo of Rustys 2" BB, 1" block for rear & 2 extra coil isolators (.75" each)
Shocks: RE suggested size for 3.5" lift
Tire size: 31x10.5 Futura enforcers (actual 30.5x11.06)
Wheel size & backspacing: Stock Eccos 15x7 with 5.25" BS
Notes: Rubs the coil spring towers (lightly at full stuff), LCAs at full lock (lightly) and the flares mildly before removal. Rear sway bar removed, front sway bar DQ'd. Front bumpstops extended 2", rear bumpstops extended 1.25". Brake lines extended 6" F&R, Rustys LCAs for a 3.5" lift.

I think it flexed pretty good for a thrown together BB ....

I sent you PM

thanks brcomputer

I sent you a pm about those parts.....

Re: Front Brake line plans

Rough 01 said:

As for the rear brake lines. Do I need to buy 2 brake line extentions or just 1? I know that the drivers side rear is really short and without the swar bar it will be too short at full droop. I'm not sure about the other side though. I came up with this opinion from Rusty's 3" kit that only includes 1 brake line bracket. Am I wrong and should I buy 2 extentions?

Click to expand...

You are confusing parking brake cables with rear brake line, of which there is only one. The "extension" is a POS kludge -- be a big spender and buy a '95 YJ Wrangler rear brake hose and do it right.

Since you asked for opinions, I think you're making a mistake. Extended shackles will give you some additional height initially, but because they allow the springs to work through a greater range, they will very rapidly kill those nice Up Country springs you just put in. I don't know how much those shackles cost, but I'll bet it's at least 50 clams, and for about the same price you can get a Rancho add-a-leaf that will give you the same lift plus reinforce the spring instead of kill it.

If you're REALLY interested in doing it on a budget, take your old springs (you do still have them back in a corner of the garage or basement, right?), take them apart, cut the eyes off the main leaves just where they start to roll up, and stick them into your Up Country springs as AALs. That should be good for about 1-1/4 ", maybe a bit more. If you don't get enough lift from that to match your front spacers, add the shortest leaf from your old springs, too.

You can buy new spring centering pins for a couple of bucks each.

Having the front axle off-center will look idiotic, but it is drivable. One of the guys from New Hampshire drove his like that for at least two years. We haven't seen him at an event for awhile -- for all I know it may still be that way.

Thanks Eagle

The extension that I'm talking about is the RE steel brake line. I'm sorry for the confusion. Eagle, will this work or am I still not understanding? (not trying to be sarcastic, I really need to know). The extension that came in the rusty's kit was a new brake line bracket and instructions that say to rebend the original brake line. I don't want to do that. It just sounds too cloogy(sp?) for me. I'd rather have the security and safety of a longer brake line.

That's a good idea about the original springs but I kinda left them at my father in-law's place in OK (23 hour drive 1 way). He has a killer workshop with air, cutting torches, welders, etc. hehehe.

I'll look at the Rancho AAL but if I go that route I'll probably have to use a shim. If so, should I start with a 3* shim? That's what I've read is a good starting place.

As far as the track bar goes..I've read about people just drilling a new hole for the mount next to the old one. Any dissadvantages to doing this?

Thanks

Re: Thanks Eagle

Rough 01 said:

As far as the track bar goes..I've read about people just drilling a new hole for the mount next to the old one. Any dissadvantages to doing this?

Click to expand...

When I bought my '88 MJ the stock track bar was in a redrilled hole. The hole was egged out and there was no way to tighten the track bar enough to eliminate the play and slop. I bought a Rusty's adjustable and put it back in the stock location.

I know many people drill a new hole, but IMHO that weakens to bracket. The move the axle enough to compensate for a 3" to 4" lift, the new hole needs to be very close to the edge of the bracket. I don't trust it.

I'd say just drive it with the axle off-center until you save enough for an adjustable track bar.

I agree with Eagle there, re-drilled has always seemed a little bit :bs: to me...

I've been running for almost three years on 3" with a stock track-bar...Got a little bit of bumpsteer, but not too bad...

Sequoia

Sounds a little overboard for a total of 3" max lift maybe. An 1" from the upcountry + 1 3/4 for the coil spacer and a shackle in the rear will barely net 3" of lift. I wouldn't bother with a tranny drop kit to start. Maybe with 5" but not 3". Also, remember not to get a shock for a 3" lift if you are adding the adapter up front. Your shock won't need to be quite as long.
And, if you add an add-a-leaf or springs from the old pack, the ride will be harsh anyway so why not just add the shackle and call it good. And without disconnects you don't even need the brake line extensions anyway. Not til you go bigger.
Good luck.

Final thoughts

First, Thank you all for your input. It has helped out greatly. After carefull thought I think that I'm going to go with the following.

Rusty's BB (coil spacers and shackles) Going with shackles over AAL since I like the spring rate I have now. I'm also going to start saving up to put new spring packs in when the current ones give out due to the longer shackles.

Rusty's X-fer case lowering kit (ie block of aluminum with 2 holes drilled in it) I'm going to get this since it's inexpensive and I'd rather have it on hand just in case. I'm going to try and run without it first and then make a decision to use it or not.

RE Rear steel extended brake line. This is must for the rear. I'll get the front line later so I can DQ the front for some hard wheeling.

Bilstein shocks. I've ridden in another XJ with these and they are awesome.

TeraFlex second generation greasable QD. I'm going to need to extend the swaybar mounts anyway and they are great to have on the trail.

Rusty's LCA. This will help get all the flex out of the rig and help keep the axle centered.

To solve the trackbar issue I plan on drilling a new mounting hole or fabbing an adapter to work. I don't run really insane trails so I think this should hold up to my level of abuse.

I'm not going to get the front shock adapter due to budget. It's not that big of a deal and the shocks I need for 3" are available.


I'll be placing the order in the next couple of weeks so I'll post some pics when I'm done.

I've had the TeraFlex quick disconnects for 3 years now and love them. I've got 3.5" of lift though and they're a little too long. The upper bolts will punch holes in the fenderwell. You can probably fix that by cutting off the extra threads at the top, but it's not a big deal and I haven't even bothered to fix it yet.

-RE hack n tap SYE, retube an XJ front shaft for you CV shaft

-Front, Coil spacers, make them if you can, otherwise buy them. Redrill the trackbar mount or leave it. YJ front brake lines.

-Rear, Dakota or S-10 or MJ leaves, mix and match to get desired lift. Mid 90s Dakota brake line.

-shocks, Bilstein 5100, the longest you can fit, hopefully you can make 12" travel shocks fit, so you won't feel the need to get rid of them when you go bigger.

Done. (now it's time for skids, tow hooks, and lockers)

ChargedUp! said:

Also, remember not to get a shock for a 3" lift if you are adding the adapter up front. Your shock won't need to be quite as long.

Click to expand...

Huh?

The shocks don't know if the lift was done with new coils or with coil spacers. The upper mounting point is still 3" farther away from the lower mounting point.

And, if you add an add-a-leaf or springs from the old pack, the ride will be harsh anyway so why not just add the shackle and call it good.

Click to expand...

Have you driven an XJ with either a full-length AAL or a home-brewed version of same? I just did one of the home brews for a friend and then I drove the vehicle from Connecticut to Montana for her. The ride was excellent -- better than stock, and definitely not "harsh."

Don't perpetuate myths.

Have you driven an XJ with either a full-length AAL or a home-brewed version of same? I just did one of the home brews for a friend and then I drove the vehicle from Connecticut to Montana for her. The ride was excellent -- better than stock, and definitely not "harsh."
Don't perpetuate myths.

Click to expand...

I have driven Jeeps with multiple different lifts. From the short stubby AAL to the long AAL to the long with an extended shackel. The ride is definitely firmer. Maybe harsh isn't the proper term to use but stock they are so soft an AAL with make it harsher IMO.
I am on Jeep number 5 now and they have all been lifted in one way or another so I do have "some" experience and know what I'm talking about.

a few points i'd like to make....
the t/case drop is a bandaid for a late model XJ.... i admittedly have one installed.. with a 2.5* shim and the 1" drop i still have considerable vibes at certain road speeds... enough that the SYE is going to be done this month.. if you lift with the shackle you will probably still need a shim of some sort... it's all in how comfortable you are with vibes when you're done.. my suggestion to you is to lift with a full length AAL and use a 2.5* shim and drive it a few moiles... install the drop... drive it a few miles... get a few steel yard sticks to project your pinion and output angles and add or reduce the amount of shim you have in ther to get them as close as you can....
for the trackbar... don't re-drill it... live with it being off-center for a while till you get the $$ to do it right... with my 3" terra coils and the stock trackbar the axle is offset a full 1 1/4" to the drivers side.. rides as straight as it ever did, tires not wearing poorly, but the steering wheel is offf center too.. budget minded lifting is fine.. just don't be "cheap" or "foolish" by cutting nessecary corners.. compromise.. skip the bilsteins and pick up some Doetch Tech shocks instead.. some new u-bolts would be a good idea too... a RE 3.5" AAL kit with shocks will run around $550.. a complete, proven kit, no guess work, within the budget limitations.... if you end up wit extra parts left over sell them so you can save toward the bigger mods....
mike