bmwe30nut
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Allentown, PA
Could use some suggestions on what to check:
This is a project car (younger daughter's driver). Since there's not much history (at 169k miles), I'm checking/changing things as I go. She's been driving it lately with no major issues.
When we got it, the battery was completely dead, so I got a new battery and a new Crank Position sensor (Mopar) and it's been doing well since (this is 1 mo ago).
I had bought the Distributor cap/rotor (Omix and Standard Motor products, respectively), wires (AC Delco), Coil (Spectra) using an Amazon credit figuring I'd be doing them shortly. Had the NGK V power plugs already from a prior order.
She was driving it and got a check engine light. Checked it out (she keeps a cheap OBD 2 reader in the car)...misfire Cyl 2 (onetime code). So I figure it's time to change the ignition parts....
Disconnect the battery.
I go to take the distributor cap off and one of the screws breaks. Pull the distributor to drill out the screw.
She does the plugs/wires while I'm working on the distributor.
I put the new coil in, align the distributor (I thought correctly, but it might have spun while I was working on it)...
Put it all together, she fires it up...runs really rough. Turns it off, tries again (happens again).
I check the distributor...thinking maybe the shaft was turned 180 degrees off, try that...crank/no start.
So, I turn the crankshaft bolt to TDC (found the timing marks under the grease).
Pull the distributor again.
Pull the pickup coil, make sure the hole matches up (used an allen wrench) inside the distributor.
Install it...
Double check to make sure the pickup coil and ignition coil plugs were plugged in (they were).
Double check the plug wires (they were right each time).
Crank, no start.
Disconnect and reconnect the Crank Position sensor (just in case)....nope, crank/no start.
Use an in-line spark plug checker and the two cylinders that are easiest to get to (2 and 5) show a light as she cranks the engine.
Check the schrader valve on the fuel rail (fuel spurts out each time after she's cranked it, and I hear the fuel pump charging when she first turns the key to run).
Now, I'm stumped....I figure the plugs/wires/distributor cap and rotor are pretty simple (and unlikely to be the source of the problem).
Maybe I damaged the Camshaft position sensor when I drilled the broken screw off (did just barely touch the plastic and aluminum around it)...could that give the symptoms?
Possible that the new coil is weak?
(I had my daughter check the Haynes manual as I reinstalled the distributor, and we both verified the TCD (and checked through the spark plug hole on Cyl #1, so I'm pretty sure the distributor is aligned correctly).
It could certainly be something else...but it ran fine until I did the tune-up stuff.
Thanks!
This is a project car (younger daughter's driver). Since there's not much history (at 169k miles), I'm checking/changing things as I go. She's been driving it lately with no major issues.
When we got it, the battery was completely dead, so I got a new battery and a new Crank Position sensor (Mopar) and it's been doing well since (this is 1 mo ago).
I had bought the Distributor cap/rotor (Omix and Standard Motor products, respectively), wires (AC Delco), Coil (Spectra) using an Amazon credit figuring I'd be doing them shortly. Had the NGK V power plugs already from a prior order.
She was driving it and got a check engine light. Checked it out (she keeps a cheap OBD 2 reader in the car)...misfire Cyl 2 (onetime code). So I figure it's time to change the ignition parts....
Disconnect the battery.
I go to take the distributor cap off and one of the screws breaks. Pull the distributor to drill out the screw.
She does the plugs/wires while I'm working on the distributor.
I put the new coil in, align the distributor (I thought correctly, but it might have spun while I was working on it)...
Put it all together, she fires it up...runs really rough. Turns it off, tries again (happens again).
I check the distributor...thinking maybe the shaft was turned 180 degrees off, try that...crank/no start.
So, I turn the crankshaft bolt to TDC (found the timing marks under the grease).
Pull the distributor again.
Pull the pickup coil, make sure the hole matches up (used an allen wrench) inside the distributor.
Install it...
Double check to make sure the pickup coil and ignition coil plugs were plugged in (they were).
Double check the plug wires (they were right each time).
Crank, no start.
Disconnect and reconnect the Crank Position sensor (just in case)....nope, crank/no start.
Use an in-line spark plug checker and the two cylinders that are easiest to get to (2 and 5) show a light as she cranks the engine.
Check the schrader valve on the fuel rail (fuel spurts out each time after she's cranked it, and I hear the fuel pump charging when she first turns the key to run).
Now, I'm stumped....I figure the plugs/wires/distributor cap and rotor are pretty simple (and unlikely to be the source of the problem).
Maybe I damaged the Camshaft position sensor when I drilled the broken screw off (did just barely touch the plastic and aluminum around it)...could that give the symptoms?
Possible that the new coil is weak?
(I had my daughter check the Haynes manual as I reinstalled the distributor, and we both verified the TCD (and checked through the spark plug hole on Cyl #1, so I'm pretty sure the distributor is aligned correctly).
It could certainly be something else...but it ran fine until I did the tune-up stuff.
Thanks!
