Water Pump Gaskets

So looks like the next 3 days will be rain free and was thinking I would get around to replacing my water pump.
Also going to do the thermostat housing gasket.
So instead of using the gasket that came with the water pump from Napa I decided to go with a FelPro one.
Same for the thermostat housing. Decided to replace the thermostat housing too.
Also bought a new black tube.
I might replace the thermostat. I bought a new Stant Superstat.
Funny thing is that the one in there is a cheaper Napa one. Been in there about 6 years now.
Works fine. Which I think is kind of funny considering some of the horror stories I have read about people having problems with them here and there.
Forgot who but I think I read that somebody bought 4 thermostats, each one being defective, and finally the 5th one worked.

So I have a handle on the water pump install.

Thinking I would take a blue (aluminum) cookie with my die grinder to give it a final clean after scraping most of the old stuff off.

So wonder what you guys think about that?

But my real question is about using some RTV. This:

https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/BK_7653017

My buddy is all about using this stuff. On the block. On the water pump. Everywhere.
I was thinking more a thin layer on the block just to maybe smooth out the mating surface of the minor imperfections I expect to find.

Thing is FelPro is very adamant about not using any kind of stuff. Constantly stating it on their website.

So what do you guys think about this also?

Something else I wanted to ask.
The red thread sealant on the black tube I bought is mostly worn off. Brand new. Figured no big deal.
Was thinking teflon tape, for the temp sensor too, but I also have some of this from when I put those fittings on my oil filter adapter to make it easier to hook up a mechanical gauge without removing the sensor.

https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/BK_7651155

Since I have both already which way would you go?

I usually use a very thin layer, spread with fingers on the gasket itself -- both sides

that method has worked for me 100% of the time when I do my part on the install

Can't say I've been 100% on installs, just recently had a thermostat get misaligned on a XJ while installing the housing -- that sucker did leak a slow drip -- had to replace the new gasket which was torn from the out of place thermostat

I clean the mating surfaces and don't use gasket sealer or RTV unless its called for in the manual.

The Permatex 592 Thread Sealant is what I do use on the the black tube and oil pressure sending unit.

Ditto Heavyopp. Thin smear of RTV on both sides of the gasket. That goes for
the water pump, and thermo housing.

Remember to retorque, or snug up, the fasteners after a week or two of driving.

Add one more for the thin layer of RTV on both sides.

In a perfect world with perfectly machined, defect-free surfaces on both sides perhaps I would be okay with putting in a dry gasket, but my real world is far from perfect.

If I get little tiny beads (balls) of RTV after I tighten things up I figure that was just about right. I think it is the folks who get a solid bead (like a rope) of RTV on both sides of everything, inside and out, that give a bad name to the use of RTV.

I prefer a thin coat of silicon, lightly snug the bolts, let it cure for a bit, then torque to spec. Work well since silicon tends to shrink a hair as it cures.

My favorite, guaranteed to seal, is anaerobic sealer. It ain't cheap, but great stuff. Small bead thin coating rubbed into the gasket and apply. Works good for press in place gaskets and coating o rings too. I use it on everything at work. Less mess than silicone, and is made for sealing machined surfaces or dressing paper gaskets.

https://www.permatex.com/products/g...nge-sealants/permatex-anaerobic-gasket-maker/

A good read. Highlights the biggest error is not waiting long enough for whatever you use to cure.



https://www.permatex.com/ten-common-gasketing-mistakes/

lawsoncl said:

A good read. Highlights the biggest error is not waiting long enough for whatever you use to cure.



https://www.permatex.com/ten-common-gasketing-mistakes/

Click to expand...

That is why I was waiting for 3 nice days in a row. The instructions for the link I posted mentioned waiting 24 hours before adding anti-freeze.

I think I am going to go dry though. Got everything apart yesterday. The top water pump snapped but was able to get it out. Luckily. Going to finish cleaning up, the mating surfaces seem to look good so far (will know better when all cleaned up) and I want to take my thread restorer and clean up holes and bolts. Will put it back together and see what happens.

Just thought I would let everybody know I did it dry. Torqued to spec. All appears well so.......