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Slow Up/Down Power Windows on '01 XJ

Redsnake

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Tulsa, OK
My Drivers side window appears to have a 'catch' when going up or down. Sometimes it will go up and down easy and smooth but most of the time it drags and sometimes hangs up all together for a second or two before continuing either way.

I've read thru a few 'how-tos' on ways to fix this so this weekend I pulled the door apart. Using White Lithium grease I lubed the tracks fore/aft where the window rides, lubed the center metal 'carrier' front/back that the window rides on and made sure the electrical connection was good and clean and put some dielectric grease on it. I wasn't able to lube the area that where the motor spins the track (the screw drive area if you know what I'm talking about). Worked that lithium grease in good, up down up down... and the window worked pretty good. This morning it was back to it's usual super slow movement.

Does anyone have any ideas what could help? I hate to replace the entire power window regulator w/motor if that's not necessary. I mean mine still works, but it's VERY slow.

Any other ideas or suggestions would be appreciated.
 
Make sure voltage to motor is high enough. you may have poor wire connections, positive or ground, high resistance in the switches, etc...

Good Luck!

Thanks for the input. I didn't include this, but I've had to replace my Master Window Control Switch 2 times over the past many years from OE... just replaced it recently ~ 2 months back because the OE replacement had apparently worn out in 4 years time. Worked like a charm for a few weeks then started getting this slow up/down in the window movement again. I'll look into the voltage. Assuming it should be close to 12 Volts near the motor?
 
If it's never been done lubricate the mechanism inside the door as well. If you are getting a lot of resistance it could be pulling too much current trying to make the windows go up and down causing premature failure of switches and whatnot.
 
If it's never been done lubricate the mechanism inside the door as well. If you are getting a lot of resistance it could be pulling too much current trying to make the windows go up and down causing premature failure of switches and whatnot.

That's what I did this weekend. The only thing I couldn't get any white lithium grease on was the 'tube' 'plastic straw like' area that the cable rides in. That could be gummed up I suppose but I don't think there's any way to lub that part. All other channels and tracks have been lubed up. If all else fails I'll just replace the motor/track/all but it's working so I'm guessing there's something that has gummed up somewhere that I can't access.
 
About the only thing else you could do is pull the motor and lube that area.
 
With motor operating, yes close to 12 volts. Besure to test voltage with motor operating, both up and down thru the full range of movement. Measure at the motor

If low voltage is found, then you got voltage drop! First lets determine if the drops, caused by bad connections in the path of electric flow to the window motor, are in the positve side, or ground side of the circuit... Find the drops....

Test for Positve Voltage Drops....With window motor operating, measure between motor positive input and a good alternate 12 volt positive, say off the fuse panel or battery post. You will be measuring the drop in voltage between the motor positive input, and a close to battery voltage, uneffected by voltage drops inline with the window motor, like its fuse, switches, connectors, etc... Ideally this voltage will be zero, but we are not ideal, there will be some drop, even in a normal system, but if that drop is big, then you know the problem at least in part is in the positive wire connectors, fuse, components on positive side,

Test for Negative Voltage Drops.... With window motor operating, test voltage between the motor ground with one lead of volt meter, the other end volt meter test lead on a GOOD body ground, or battery negative post. If you see a large drop here, then you know you have a problem in the grounding or negative voltage half of the window motor system

By testing drops as above, you can cut the hunt for the bad connection in half. then continue probing in same way always back to the window motor imputs from various locations in the electric path, input side of switch, output side of switch for instance. A huge drop from the window motor to After the switch, but not before it ie.. output side of switch, verses input side of switch, means the switch is a source of big drop, and needs repair, replacement. If the drop is nearly the same value regardless of which side of the switch is measured for drop against the window motor, that means the switch is electrically speaking, just fine.

Remember voltage drops tests must be made with circuit in operation, ie window motor running!
 
My passenger window went inop Saturday. It's always been slow to go up.. I just assumed gummed up track and/or old motor. Took door panel off, put 12v to the motor, the window rolled all the way up quickly.

I'd bet you have a bad wire or connection between the switch and the motor.

Disable your driver window lock button as a starting point

Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk
 
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I just installed a new regulator and motor on Friday. I went with the AC Delco unit, which uses wheels instead of sliders. It works very quickly, as long as the window is sitting in the channels correctly. When I first installed it, the window was not sitting in the channel correctly, and it was very slow. It is easy for the window to get out of the front channel. I think that may have been what caused the old motor to give up.
 
Followup: I also installed a new AC Delco regulator and motor yesterday. I made sure to measure voltage at the motor connection and was getting around 12.4 volts w/just the key on, not started.

Replaced w/the newer style AC Delco parts and the window is faster than ever... up and down. Overall a pretty easy installation. Hopefully I won't have to mess w/this again. I'm actually tempted to replace the passenger window for the smooth and fast operation of the AC Delco part but that one still works fine... so I'll probably just keep OE for as long as it lasts.

Thanks again for all the suggestions. I may have been able to clean up the OE regulator guide channel (not sure what it's called) and lube everything up and just reinstall, but why bother when the new part seems better anyway. Ha
 
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