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Need to replace rear main seal

J

Jjcord2015

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Illinois
I’ve checked valve cover, oil is not coming from that, I’ve already replaced the oil filter adapter so that’s good. Pretty certain it’s the RMS and the oil pan gasket itself.

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I have about 4 1/2” of lift, looking from pics, does it look like the oil pan will clear the axle?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
If the Jeep is stock height, disconnecting shocks, track bar, and steering at the axle will help it droop enough that the pan is easier to get out.
 
md21722 said:
If the Jeep is stock height, disconnecting shocks, track bar, and steering at the axle will help it droop enough that the pan is easier to get out.
Click to expand...

Looks like it should clear the axle, but I'd be more worried about the steering linkage. Every time I've done one I've disconnected it at the pitman arm. Just take the nut out and whack the pitman arm with a hammer until the joint drops out. Pulling down on the steering linkage while.doing this can help it along. FWIW, the RMS doesn't look THAT bad, but hey, it's your Jeep...
 
JeepNoob said:
Looks like it should clear the axle, but I'd be more worried about the steering linkage. Every time I've done one I've disconnected it at the pitman arm. Just take the nut out and whack the pitman arm with a hammer until the joint drops out. Pulling down on the steering linkage while.doing this can help it along. FWIW, the RMS doesn't look THAT bad, but hey, it's your Jeep...
Click to expand...

That's what I meant by steering at the axle. I guess I could have been more clear.
 
md21722 said:
That's what I meant by steering at the axle. I guess I could have been more clear.
Click to expand...

Eh, it happens. I try to be as concise as possible when giving people technical.advice. I used to work an OEM technical support hotline giving out advice to service techs, mostly over Al Gore's information super highway, so I've got plenty of experience. Different people understand different things different ways and have different thought processes, so I often try to dumb things as much as possible. Not that I think the other guy is unintelligent or inexperienced, but it makes things easier to process and understand. Also, I don't know his/her/it's chosen pronoun intelligence or experience level lol.

Hey, I got's me an idea just now- how about a sticky-ed how-to on how to replace an RMS and oil pan gasket? Seems like we get enough folks asking questions about...
 
JeepNoob said:
Looks like it should clear the axle, but I'd be more worried about the steering linkage. Every time I've done one I've disconnected it at the pitman arm. Just take the nut out and whack the pitman arm with a hammer until the joint drops out. Pulling down on the steering linkage while.doing this can help it along. FWIW, the RMS doesn't look THAT bad, but hey, it's your Jeep...
Click to expand...



It’s not a horrible leak, but I get a few drops every time it’s parked. I have a new garage so getting sick of cardboard thing.

Is it not possible to unbolt oil pan, move forward enough to drop rear of pan to clear bell housing, then pull it out backwards? It looks like it’s possible, but idk.


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No because you need to pull the rear main bearing cap, plus you wouldn't want to skip replacing the pan gasket while you there.
 
I just did mine on a stock height Federal Emission 2000. I had to remove the starter, disconnect shocks, sway bar and LCA bolts. I used a ratchet strap to rotate the axle forward. from there I simply wiped off the gunk from the inspection cover, and dropped the pan. Depending on your year, the RMS changes style. 2000 and later they no longer have the tabs. I actually have a spare one in my desk at the moment.
 
at 4.5", you will not need to disconnect anything. just drop the pan and slide it back.

also agree that the leak isn't that bad, but a new garage floor is pretty good motivation to change it. FWIW, I changed my seal and gasket and still have a small leak. from oil filter adapter, so change that if you haven't
 
denverd1 said:
at 4.5", you will not need to disconnect anything. just drop the pan and slide it back.

also agree that the leak isn't that bad, but a new garage floor is pretty good motivation to change it. FWIW, I changed my seal and gasket and still have a small leak. from oil filter adapter, so change that if you haven't
Click to expand...



Thanks, just from me looking it looked like it’ll clear ok. I just wanted some confirmation before I tear into it.

Another question: it’s a 99 with 127k miles. Should I replace the oil pump since I’ll have it opened up? Oil Pressure is fine, about 50psi when under load and 30psi at idle when hot.


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I wouldnt change anything thats not a problem. My 99 has 282k miles and has the original oil pump and still has the same pressure as you lol
 
Jjcord2015 said:
Another question: it’s a 99 with 127k miles. Should I replace the oil pump since I’ll have it opened up? Oil Pressure is fine, about 50psi when under load and 30psi at idle when hot.
Click to expand...

The oil pressure is within Factory specs, leave the pump alone, other than cleaning the oil screen.
If you want to do more, pull a few of the bearing caps and check the condition of the bearings, you will probably find them to be OK too. Make sure to torque the caps back to specs.

When doing RMS jobs, I like to pull the pan and let it sit at least overnight or longer, to let the rain of dripping oil diminish.
It's not a hard job, just dirty. Be gentle when removing and installing the new seal and not to scratch the crank.
 
I had 200k and did replace my pump. Was nothing wrong with it but it was fairly cheap and easy to swap. And 200k feels like a good time to do it.

You can let it drip dry for several days and it's still a dirty job, but definitely plan on it sitting for at least a day.

I also had to clearance a bit of metal off the pump I put in so the crank wouldn't contact it.

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I did one on a 95 model about a week and a half ago.

Removed:
Front tires
Starter
Steering stabilizer
large bolt/nut on bottom passenger side of flex plate cover
turned steering wheel to the left

When I did it on a lift at the base hobby shop on my 97 XJ i wound up disconnecting shocks, LCAs and steering stabilizer.
 
I did mine last week. I used a fel-pro pan gasket without the gasket retaining clips and pinched it under the bearing cap. I ended up having to re-do it with the retaining clips.

I didn't remove anything. 4" lift with 33" tires. I lifted the front axle up about 6" then put jack stands under the front of the frame, then let the suspension sag. There was plenty of room to drop the pan and slide it back.
 
I did mine last week. I used a fel-pro pan gasket without the gasket retaining clips and pinched it under the bearing cap. I ended up having to re-do it with the retaining clips.

I didn't remove anything. 4" lift with 33" tires. I lifted the front axle up about 6" then put jack stands under the front of the frame, then let the suspension sag. There was plenty of room to drop the pan and slide it back.
 
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