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oil pressure sending unit too large

MickeyS

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Pasadena
swapping out my idiot cluster for one with gauges. ordered the standard auto part for the oil pressure gauge, which is about twice in length compared to the one for the idiot light.

the electronic connector will not fit once it's installed due to the dip stick being directly in like with the sender. i see on some videos and pictures that the receiver for the oil pressure sending unit is offset at an angle from the engine/dipstick; this is not the case in my '96. it is directly in line. is there another unit from another brand that is shorter, the same length as the idiot light unit?

thanks!

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So I just throw a crescent wrench on that receiver block and rotate? gonna have to get a friend who goes to the gym to help me, thing wont budge an inch.
 
If you take out the sender, can you get a socket on it? Then use a long extension to get the ratchet into a position you can actually put a little muscle in it

You should take it completely out, clean the threads and reseal it while making sure it ends up pointing where you want
 
If you take out the sender, can you get a socket on it? Then use a long extension to get the ratchet into a position you can actually put a little muscle in it

You should take it completely out, clean the threads and reseal it while making sure it ends up pointing where you want

^^^^ This!


If you just try to clock it to a new position you will probably end up with an oil leak. It needs to come all the way out, be cleaned up and have thread sealant applied to the threads. Then reinstall it in a position that works.
 
cool. I guess i'll have to dedicate some more time to this than i thought. locktite on the big guy or plumbers tape?

I can kind of get it in if i leave the sender at a perpendicular angle. so not entirely threaded in. bad idea? otherwise i'll go through the whole darn thing and buy a socket. anyone know what size that big boy is? 1 in?
 
Not loctite.

Teflon tape should be fine. Just keep it on the threads and not over the openings of the fittings.

I am not sure what you mean by "at a perpendicular angle", but "not entirely threaded in" is a bad idea. That being said, you may not have to tighten the big fitting down the same distance the factory did. Pipe threads are tapered threads, and I expect that is what you are dealing with here. This taper gives you some leeway for "adjusting" the fit. When you take this thing apart get the threads well cleaned up, especially of any old gunk that is left on the threads that are currently exposed (i.e. not threaded into the block). Then when it comes to reinstallation you can figure out if you can get away by not tightening it quite as far as the factory did, or if you will need to go an extra 3/4 or so of a turn.
 
If I really want something with pipe threads not to leak I’ll use both Teflon tape and Blue monster pipe dope

4 or 5 layers of Teflon, then run a fingernail around the threads, then coat with blue monster and install
 
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