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Oil filter adapter/ pan gasket replacement

For the wrench, what you want is something more like this:

https://www.amazon.com/Apex-Utica-T...qid=1535809574&sr=1-8&keywords=T60+insert+bit

You can buy that by itself, or it is probably cheaper to buy a T60 1/2" drive socket and punch the bit out of the socket.

Slip a box end wrench over the hex drive of the socket and add a cheater to that.

For the O-rings I simply ordered the Mopar kit. I saved my old ones intending to go the hardware store and figure out which size each one is, but I have never gotten around to doing that.

For making darn sure the O-rings seal , I bought a tube of this: https://www.amazon.com/Dow-Corning-Ring-Silicone-Lubricant/dp/B00CTUJNU2

People can argue about whether or not that is necessary. For less than $20 I could not see a reason not to do it.
 
bimmerjeeper has an in-depth and highly entertaining thread on replacing the oil filter adapter O-rings. https://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=1093343. While you are researching, you should read his O2 sensor change thread also. Don't be a bimmerjeeper, do some research, and enlighten yourself.
 
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Tim_MN said:
bimmerjeeper has an in-depth and highly entertaining thread on replacing the oil filter adapter O-rings. https://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=1093343. While you are researching, you should read his O2 sensor change thread also. Don't be a bimmerjeeper, do some research, and enlighten yourself.
Click to expand...

much appreciated, I havent seen this thread yet!



is it good to get the engine to a solid temp before trying to pull this bolt, I dont want to have any issues with it being stuck lol?
 
4x4JeePmaNthINg said:
much appreciated, I havent seen this thread yet!



is it good to get the engine to a solid temp before trying to pull this bolt, I dont want to have any issues with it being stuck lol?
Click to expand...

I don't think it will hurt, but I also doubt it will make much of a difference. As others have pointed out, your best bet will be to knock the Torx bit out of a T60 socket that's built like that and slip a box end wrench over it. When I did mine, the size I needed was 12mm as I recall.

I do HIGHLY RECOMMEND using a 6-point/hex box end wrench instead of the seemingly more common 12-point box end wrench to reduce the chances of the wrench slipping. That's what I used when I did mine, and even then the fit was kinda loose. Plus, I had to resort to slipping a cheater pipe over the wrench to get that dang bolt loose. It was loads of fun, but I got it. :D
 
Well I have a t60 socket laying around so that should work. I guess I'll call Mopar for the o rings. I thought I read Mopar discontinued stocking these, but I'll check.
 
4x4JeePmaNthINg said:
Well I have a t60 socket laying around so that should work. I guess I'll call Mopar for the o rings. I thought I read Mopar discontinued stocking these, but I'll check.
Click to expand...




Oh your poor naive soul, thinking that little allen-wrench would work. :}



When I did the ZJ, I started with just the torx bit and actually stripped out the teeth in the box end wrench. I ended up welding the torx socket itself into a bigger box wrench and using a cheater bar while someone else pried against the head with a lever so it didn't slip out. That one was a bugger!


Having tried to match the o-rings from a generic kit and having it leak again, I'll second getting the correct set. I think the last set I used was the Crown Automotive set. https://www.amazon.com/Crown-Automotive-4720363-Filter-Adapter/dp/B009X1QCF4
 
Wranglers use the same o-ring kit, the Dealership still had them a year or two ago. Genuine Chrysler Part # 1-04720363

Use an Allen, OTC, or Craftsman T60 socket and 6 point box end wrench. Cheap tools are cheap for a reason.
 
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lawsoncl said:
Oh your poor naive soul, thinking that little allen-wrench would work. :}



hahaha If I gave the impression for anyone to use that alone, Please dont lol

I usually use the top of a jack handle for a cheater and planned on that being a must for this job.


Tim ill take your advice and get a good torx socket.


Mainly this job seems simple, but I do not want a broken bolt in a block. Ive never read about anyone applying heat to this bolt before pulling it, Why not? if everyone has this much trouble getting it out, Rounding out A box end WRENCH, Damn. Thats a first to hear about.

Is that bastard really in there that bad or should I just plan on having to have a good cheater and be ready to pull? This is high on the every growing fix it list so that I can rule out the RMS if its not bad.
Click to expand...
 
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I can't see heat doing you much good. Where you need the heat is on the block where the threads are, but in order to get heat there you would first have to remove the oil filter adapter. And of course you have to remove the bolt in question first before you can remove the oil filter adapter. Unless you want to carefully cut out the adapter just so you can have the pleasure of applying heat where you want it and then gracefully remove the bolt.

This is just a brute force job.

If you want to play it safe you could take your tools to a junkyard and practice on a vehicle or two there. Maybe bring back a spare bolt and adapter for just in case you damage your own.

Once you get a T-60 bit solidly seated in that bolt with a good quality wrench in place (I used a 12mm Gear Wrench) and a cheater pipe on it you will probably have that thing broken loose in a minute. Add a couple more minutes for working that bolt all the way back out (mine was pretty stiff all the way, courtesy of the O-rings) and you will have the little mess in your hands. It will take you longer to clean it up than in took to remove it.
 
I did the job with the engine warm from driving. I still had to use a cheater bar, but once the thread lock compound came loose, it was easy.
 
Your making to much of this. The Felpro kits that I have gotten from Oreily's has always fit. A Torx socket on a flex-head ratchet will make quick work of this.
 
4x4JeePmaNthINg said:
Mainly this job seems simple, but I do not want a broken bolt in a block. Ive never read about anyone applying heat to this bolt before pulling it, Why not? if everyone has this much trouble getting it out, Rounding out A box end WRENCH, Damn. Thats a first to hear about.

is that bastard really in there that bad or should i just plan on having to have a good cheater and be ready to pull? this is high on the every growing fix it list so that i can rule out the RMS if its not bad.
Click to expand...
The worst that can happen is stripping the hole at the end of the retainer (it's a tube, not a bolt).

I went a little different route by using a 3/8 drive Torx and grinding flats on it. I kept it seated with a pry bar while applying evil amounts of force.

JEEPSTUFF011a.jpg
 
Under 15 bux on Amazon:

https://www.amazon.com/Mopar-4720363-Oil-Filter-Seal/dp/B0049EHD1M

(That is the one Amazon tells me I purchased this past February.)

If you wanted to go really cheap it looks like Crown Automotive is $2, and that sounds about right for 3 o-rings. And Crown might be able to get that right. I mean, how much could they mess up on some o-rings? But for a $12 difference it isn't worth my while to find out the hard way.
 
Anak said:
Under 15 bux on Amazon:

https://www.amazon.com/Mopar-4720363-Oil-Filter-Seal/dp/B0049EHD1M

(That is the one Amazon tells me I purchased this past February.)

If you wanted to go really cheap it looks like Crown Automotive is $2, and that sounds about right for 3 o-rings. And Crown might be able to get that right. I mean, how much could they mess up on some o-rings? But for a $12 difference it isn't worth my while to find out the hard way.
Click to expand...
Anak, did you get 3 o rings with the Amazon kit? I'm about to order those + Otc torx
 
When I first did mine I bought the gasket set in at the dealer in Golden for about $5 bucks and used a Duralast T60 socket on a serpentine belt tool. The gasket set really shouldn't cost more than $25 today.
 
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