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Won’t start

Luigi1285

NAXJA Forum User
Location
NY
So the last few days I noticed every now and then the starter would be weak or the solenoid wouldn’t diss age right away. It’s a new starter. Today I ran in to get a cup of coffee go to start her and she’s dead. I figured the starter took a dump because it wouldn’t move when I jumped it. Ran across the street picked up a starter and still nothing.

Next I thought it was the bootleg push button start the PO installed. Got that out and still nothing. Had no bus show up and check gauges.

With half my dash apart I gave up and called triple a.

We tried to jump it with no luck. Got it home noticed the guage was showing low voltage tried to jump it off my truck and I got a click but it would t crank. Pulled the jumpers off and it randomly started. Put a meter on the battery and with it off it’s showing 12.6 volts. It wouldn’t restart. Could a bad battery cause this or is it something else?


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Oh and the dash is volt gauge is showing around 9 volts even though the battery is at 12.6


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Definitely could be a battery! Voltage means nothing unless it was measured under a load.
 
Main fuses are good battery terminals are clear. Grounds done look corroded. I guess I’ll try a battery today


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Low voltage suggests a battery or connector/cable issue. A No-Bus suggests a Crankshaft Position Sensor (CPS) issue. Test and diagnose before you start throwing new parts at an unknown problem.

Test the CPS.

Remove the battery and Load Test inside a test machine. Handheld tester are very inaccurate.



Clicking and not starting is usually a low voltage issue from:
• dirty, corroded, damaged, or loose wire connections
• internally corroded battery wires
• a short circuit or parasitic drain
• a failing battery
• a failing alternator
• leaving the lights on

Perform routine maintenance of the start and charge systems. Remove, clean, and firmly reconnect all the wires and cables to the battery, starter, and alternator. Look for corroded or damaged cables or connectors and replace as needed. Copper wires should be copper color, not black or green. Battery terminals and battery wire connectors should bright silver, not dull gray and corroded. Do the same for the grounding wires from the starter to engine block, the ground wires at the coil, and the ground wires from the battery and engine to the Jeep's frame/body. You must remove, wire brush, and clean until shiny the cable/wire ends and whatever they bolt onto.

Jeeps do not tolerate low voltage, bad wire connections, or poor grounds.

Test the output at the alternator with your volts/ohms multi-meter. You should be measuring 13.8-14.4 volts. Have the battery, starter, and the alternator Load Tested for proper function in a test machine that applies a simulated work load. Handheld testers are inaccurate and will often pass faulty parts.

Place your DVOM (Digital Volt Ohm Multi-Meter) on the 20 volt scale. First check battery voltage by placing your multi-meter's positive lead on the battery's positive post ( the actual post, not the clamp ) and the negative lead on the negative post. You need a minimum of 12 volts to continue testing. Next, leave your meter connected and take a reading while the engine is cranking. Record this voltage reading. Now connect your positive lead to the battery terminal stud on the starter and the negative lead to the starter housing. Again, crank the engine and record the voltage reading. If the voltage reading at the starter is not within 1 volt of battery voltage then you have excessive voltage drop in the starter circuit.

Typical voltage drop maximums:
• starter circuit (including starter solenoid) = 0.60 volt
• battery post to battery terminal end = zero volts
• battery main cable (measured end to end) 0.20 volt
• starter solenoid = 0.20 volt
• battery negative post to alternator metal frame = 0.20 volt
• negative main cable to engine block = 0.20 volt
• negative battery post to starter metal frame = 0.30
• battery positive post to alternator b+stud = 0.5 volt with maximum charging load applied (all accessories turned on)


Wiggle the automatic transmission lever in both Park and Neutral while trying to start. If it starts, you need to clean or replace the Neutral Safety Switch (NSS).

Have your helper turn the ignition key to START while you tap gently on the starter with a hammer. If the engine starts, you probably need a new starter.

Have the battery, starter, and the alternator Load Tested for proper function in a test machine that applies a simulated work load. Handheld testers are inaccurate and will often pass faulty parts.
 
Last edited:
I ended up picking up a new battery regardless. The old one was 4 years old and it looked like the P.O. smacked the terminals with a hammer. No dice with new battery. Went to pull the battery ground from the frame and bolt snapped way To easily. I picked up a new 2 ga ground cable gotta drill the broken bolt and try that when I get home. P.O. painted the engine bay and never cleaned where any of the grounds go so that is next on my list. It has a brand new starter.


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