• NAXJA is having its 18th annual March Membership Drive!!!
    Everyone who joins or renews during March will be entered into a drawing!
    More Information - Join/Renew
  • Welcome to the new NAXJA Forum! If your password does not work, please use "Forgot your password?" link on the log-in page. Please feel free to reach out to [email protected] if we can provide any assistance.

What I learned about oil pan gasket

alloriginaltone

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Pittsburgh
Replaced oil pan gasket. YouTube videos are always helpful, but here's what I learned:

1. First, I had the axle off...so I didn't have to worry about wrestling my way around it.

2. The starter really needs to come off to do this the most easily. It's especially important when you reinstall the pan. It's very easy to remove...so just take it off and support it with a cord. 14mm on bottom and 15mm on top for me.

3. The Felpro gasket snap-up inserts are a great concept...however be careful with the ones in the back at the main seal. As I was trying to wrestle the pan into place it slid back and I snapped the inserts off...I managed to get them out of the engine block but as I was about halfway to putting on the bolts for the pan I realized I couldn't account for the missing pieces...so I took off the pan...and there they were in the bottom of the pan. Removed the pan again (ugh) got them out...and reinstalled.

4. This brings me to my last point. The BleepinJeep video shows a full top and bottom seal of RTV on the gasket and pan for the front and rear semicircles. Gets messy putting it in...and especially messy if you have to remove during installation as I did. Probably just following the factory guidelines for the four corners would have been sufficient.
 
That's why for ease of assembly I install studs in all my motors!
P1080513_zpskwcz0l2l.jpg
 
I will add that I stud everything!
P1080505_zpsi9r9vgut.jpg

P1080515_zpsy6cfykns.jpg
 
This was one of the messiest, most aggravating jobs I did on my '88. Had an RMS leak so pan had to come off. It's only 2wd so no issues with front axle. I did remove the starter.

Previous owner must have had a leak and permatexed the pan on. Took hours to remove all traces on the old gasket using solvents, scrapers, wire brush and razor blades. Also had to "hammer" the flange on the pan back to flat after prying it off.

Since mine was up on jacks, I used tie straps to hold the gasket in place while I installed the pan.

There are some pan bolts with stud extensions for hold the trans lines. So make sure you have these in the right place.
 
Googling led me to ARP kits and some more generic/multi use ones. Any chance you still have the part numbers for what you used? Like the idea and need to put it in my files for possible future use.

I don't have any part numbers, but everything is from ARP.
The oil pan took 2 Gen1 SB Chevy oil pan kits because of the number of studs.
The valve cover were from their carb kits.
The rockers were from their carb kits.
The mains were a direct application.

The rockers help greatly with the installation of my HS roller rockers!
P1080471x_zpsetqh8leu.jpg

P1080469_zpswubcpw4d.jpg
 
I don't have any part numbers, but everything is from ARP.
The oil pan took 2 Gen1 SB Chevy oil pan kits because of the number of studs.
The valve cover were from their carb kits.
The rockers were from their carb kits.
The mains were a direct application.

The rockers help greatly with the installation of my HS roller rockers!

No that works. Thank you. I saw in one of the postings about having to buy the 2 SB Chevy kits.
 
The valve cover had to come from 1 of their "oil pan" kits (1/4"-20).
 
The valve cover had to come from 1 of their "oil pan" kits (1/4"-20).

There is an outside chance I might have buddy build me a motor. Nothing like yours, maybe a little bit of cam, but stock otherwise. See what he thinks about doing something like this. Since the goal is to never have to go back into the motor in my lifetime this might be overkill. But I like having options. LOL.
 
Back
Top