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MG2000XJ
December 2nd, 2017, 14:45
I've currently got a BDS track bar that I'm pretty happy with. The single shear bar works great on my Jeep which is primarily a DD, secondly a camping/wheeling/fishing rig. Currently sitting around 3.5" up front 4" in the rear.

My question is, has anyone built a track bar bracket brace for the stock mount? Something similar to the RE model or other brands that allows a brace to be bolted to the bracket and then the passenger side frame rail?

It would need to be removable and not interfere with the TRE style flex joint on the BDS track bar.

A new, double shear bar and bracket is not in the cards right now. I'm well aware that is the preferred set up.

Thoughts?

Tim_MN
December 3rd, 2017, 07:39
Wondering why you think an RE type brace is necessary, especially for light duty use ? If you have the skills and tools to build a brace, why not just beef up the stock bracket, or build your own heavy duty bracket ?

MG2000XJ
December 3rd, 2017, 09:27
Wondering why you think an RE type brace is necessary, especially for light duty use ? If you have the skills and tools to build a brace, why not just beef up the stock bracket, or build your own heavy duty bracket ?

Probably not necessary at all. Mainly thinking between that and a steering box brace, it would tighten up the front end, more rigidity I guess. Trackbars/brackets seem to be a likely spot for some play so why not. Preventative maintenance?

I couldn't build a heavy duty bracket for a tapered TRE style joint, I could probably pull off a brace.

Thanks!

trippled
December 3rd, 2017, 16:34
For what you do I would just drill the lower bolts out on the bracket to 5/8 and put new hardware in. If you're looking to stiffen the front some more look into something like boostwerks steering box brace. While I built my own brace, it felt much tighter taking corners at higher speeds.

TRCM
December 3rd, 2017, 16:44
For what you do I would just drill the lower bolts out on the bracket to 5/8 and put new hardware in. If you're looking to stiffen the front some more look into something like boostwerks steering box brace. While I built my own brace, it felt much tighter taking corners at higher speeds.

9/16 would likely be enough to remove the slop

Agree on the boostwerks brace....tightened mine up a good it.

burntkat
December 4th, 2017, 06:20
9/16 would likely be enough to remove the slop
.

When you go to the larger bolt (9/16), there is no need to drill out the bushing. Just use a bushing for a 2001 Dodge Ram 1500. It's the same OD (In fact I suspect it comes out of the same mold, across manufacturers- Master Pro and Moog being an example I have recent experience with) and the same ID for the sleeve- the sleeve being a different ID.

Yes, you can certainly drill out the stock sleeve- but with most folks not having a drill press to do the job properly, why not just solve the problem for $20?

I came across this info when I bought the Clayton H/D bolt/nut kit.

BenWheelin
December 4th, 2017, 06:57
Probably not necessary at all.

I'd say it's not, should take years of abuse at that lift height. Mine did. Over four inches in the front and they don't last long.

trippled
December 4th, 2017, 11:11
When you go to the larger bolt (9/16), there is no need to drill out the bushing. Just use a bushing for a 2001 Dodge Ram 1500. It's the same OD (In fact I suspect it comes out of the same mold, across manufacturers- Master Pro and Moog being an example I have recent experience with) and the same ID for the sleeve- the sleeve being a different ID.

Yes, you can certainly drill out the stock sleeve- but with most folks not having a drill press to do the job properly, why not just solve the problem for $20?

I came across this info when I bought the Clayton H/D bolt/nut kit.

That's good info, but we were talking about the bolts for the bracket to the body, not the bushing.

Tim_MN
December 4th, 2017, 15:49
The boostwerks brace is a fantastic product, but is even more overkill for a lightly/moderately 4wheeled truck than an RE brace. For a simple low cost solution, I would get a set of stock XJ tow hook brackets, or a pair of steering box reinforcements, and then weld some rectangular tube, behind the stock bumper, between the two brackets. Any decent quality off-road bumper that has proper frame rail mounts would also work about the same.

burntkat
December 5th, 2017, 07:05
The boostwerks brace is a fantastic product, but is even more overkill for a lightly/moderately 4wheeled truck than an RE brace. For a simple low cost solution, I would get a set of stock XJ tow hook brackets, or a pair of steering box reinforcements, and then weld some rectangular tube, behind the stock bumper, between the two brackets. Any decent quality off-road bumper that has proper frame rail mounts would also work about the same.

How about a front receiver hitch?

Tim_MN
December 5th, 2017, 10:17
How about a front receiver hitch?

This would also be a good low cost choice.

fetishfrog
December 5th, 2017, 10:25
How about a front receiver hitch?

While I am still at and will remain at stock height, my front hitch definitely tightened up the front end. All my little rattles and such simply disappeared.

Plus you get a bonus extraction point that's rock solid.

burntkat
December 5th, 2017, 12:39
Yup, that is my intent. I just installed an IRO trackbar system and I swear I'm seeing a little bit of movement, even after putting a torque wrench on everything up front. Nothing is cracked, and I've put a C-Rok steering spacer up front as well. I think I'll expedite the frame reinforcement system and install a front receiver, and just be done with it all.